PGT Driver

OK i dont own a honda but no one on my boards have ventured where i am going so i have some questions for experienced folks. I need to design some sort of crank case ventalation for my Mazda KL V6.

I guess my first question is how many vents do i need per valve cover, as i have 2 heads. I see most set ups on here involve 2 on four cylinders but do i really need to run 4 lines of crank case ventalation or can i just get away with one -10 or so per head?

Next what about the baffleing under the valve cover or is there any baffleing necissary. I know on my stock valve cover there are baffles but when extra bungs are welded in are you providing baffling for them or is it just left open?

Lastly i guess is placement, is there a specific place where the vents need to be placed or what? To i would think they need to be placed in some certain place but again i am unsure.

i appreciate the help from you guys. Thanks in advance

Jarod

got wide

all of the info used for our 4 cyl engines will be pretty much the same for you. it doesnt matter if you have one head or 4 heads your venting the crankcase, which you, like us only have one. if you weld the bungs on the vc where there is already baffling you wont need more baffling. and yes you can run 1 line from each vc or 2 from just one side because the pressure your venting is coming from the same place.

IN VTEC

iTrader: (3)

You may have to consider that the block's lower crankcase isn't an open design. Older (GenIII) SBC blocks are not an open design. The middle cylinder/rod pairs were isolated and the crankcase pressure had almost nowhere to go. The next gen LSX block implemented windows to allow through flow across all cylinder/rod pairs.

PGT Driver

Ok I am not sure what you mean by open crankcase design. Could you elaborate more please?

twkdCD595

whats up jarod, I did not know you were on here. I would think you could get away with a -10 an per bank depending on how much blowby you have. to be sure you could always run a line off to a map sensor and log the pressure/ voltage. then just add an additional bungs if ness.

tony from t1 did some testing in a similar fashion on his catch can setup (4 vc and 2 block, which the block also serve as drainback) and the results showed it was extremely effective at relieveing any pressure even in large turbo big boost big power applications like his integra. https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...745&highlight=

I dont have any additional baffling in my vc and my 2 -10an bungs are located mostly behind the stock baffling... not completly though. so far I dont have really any issues with filling my catchcan or whatnot with oil after on a couple pulls. I do get a small amount of oil pushed to it but it takes quite a while before it gets near full. if you position your weld in bungs/ bulkhead fittings/ etc so that they are completely behind the exsisting... you should not need anymore I would not think.

IN VTEC

iTrader: (3)

I shouldn't have said GenIII, because those are the early LS1 blocks that also have the windows. It's the GenII blocks that don't have the windows.

GenII LT1 block without windows. The skirt of the block is approximately the height of the oil level (slightly lower), and the oil is the floor of the crankcase.


GenIII LS1 block with windows, cross-bolted mains, and deeper block skirts to keep the windows away from the crankcase floor.


GenIII LS7 block with windows.

PGT Driver

Oh ok i get ya the windows below the girdles. Ya chad i am on here there is a wealth of information on here you just have to be good at applying knowledge to other situations. Obviously know one has attempted where i am going with my car so i have to go where the people with knowledge are. Then again i guess i could just drive down the street and talk you since you gave me the best response out of anyone! Thanks chad.