smoke traces

getting ready to turbo my d16y8 and i was just wondering how long i can stay on continuous boost.

I love driving around in the hills here in nor cal, highway 9, skyline, and i definitely don't like driving slow. I can go 100mi+ nonstop some nights and it wouldn't be very fun if i had to stay below 3500rpm all the time. what about if i drive hard for 10 min and easy for 10 min? its gonna be the edlbrock turbo kit if that helps, gt28r turbo i belive (correct me if im wrong).

when i drive up there now im always playing around near redline which is gonna be full boost.

it would kinda suck if i turboed my car and ended up having to pull over every 20 min to let it rest all the time.

EXTENSIVELY debating an h22 or b18c swap for these conditions, but turbo is just so ****** cool. a swap is also getting more inconvenient as i continue buying **** for my dseries (clutch, turbo exhaust sitting in garage) basically have my foot in the door already and hoping i wont regret it.

b16ahybrid

Well boost isn't really rpm dependent as much as it's load dependent. If your cruising at say 100mph (stuipid may I add) you can do so without being in boost. Now If your say climbing a hill that goes to a top of a mountain (steep all the way) you may have some problems. for the most part you won't be in boost 100% of the time at any speed, unless your foot is planted on the floor.
make sense?

red91sit

Just make sure you watch that temperature gauge under hard driving!.

Xtream

We instaled the Edelbrock kit on a 98 Civic, he had some temp porblems going up the grapevine (Hill clim on the 5), where he was under boost for 10-20 min strait. So we installed a fluidyne on it and it cleared his cooling problems right up. So if you do a lot of driving where your engine will be under load, IE under boost, for extending periods of time, upgrade you cooling system with a better radiator and some redline water wetter.

GSRNetics

Correct me if I'm wrong, but if your going a set MPH (cruising) boost is no longer needed. Your going 100mph already in your car, and if you go 100 mph without turbo, why do you think boost will need to be added to continue to make you go 100mph? Unless your going to accel from your high speed cruising speed, boost will not be applied. Pick up Maximum Boost by Corkey Bell if you plan on turbocharging your car. Any other person will tell you the same.

TABIAS

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93DALS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">. Pick up Maximum Boost by Corkey Bell if you plan on turbocharging your car. Any other person will tell you the same. </TD></TR></TABLE>

5STAR3

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93DALS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Pick up Maximum Boost by Corkey Bell if you plan on turbocharging your car. Any other person will tell you the same. </TD></TR></TABLE>


yep

damn, i like this noob

GSRNetics

(sorry for being off topic on this) Yeah, Im a noob, so sue me, but I don't post unless I know what im talking about. I plan on doing a t3/tO4E setup on my baby. only 39K miles her.

b16ahybrid

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93DALS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">(sorry for being off topic on this) Yeah, Im a noob, so sue me, but I don't post unless I know what im talking about. I plan on doing a t3/tO4E setup on my baby. only 39K miles her. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Can you teach others?

m R g S r

When my car was boosted, my foot wasn't always planted and I still saw boost. Like when climbing hills and what not, even at partial throttle, I would see some boost. I used to keep backing off the throttle to aviod boosting for 10-20 minutes on long drives.

smoke traces

thanks for the info, definitely gonna pick up that book. yeah i was under the impression taht boost was rpm dependent, ppl always saying "i got full boost by 4k" and whatnot.

also, driving around the hills here isnt a constant load like a long hill (grapevine on 5) but it's more like the same conditions as road course racing, floor it, brake, downshift, floor it again (dunno if that changes the situation).

radiator + fluid sounds good. im also assuming an egt guage is the temp guage to get? saw some ppl with temp guages that just measure under hood temps (dont really get the point of that other than to say you have one). stock pump and the rest of the cooling system okay though?

thanks for all your help.

GSRNetics

Well figure it out this way, look at it from a physics point of view. Your start driving on a flat surface, and then start to go uphill, if you do not accelerate, you will decelerate on the uphill. If you were on flat surface you would maintain cruising speed. So you have to accelerate to maintain speed, and if your in the boost RPM range, and you accelerate you will get boost. Simple as that.

red91sit

well an egt gauge is more for crappy way to tell if you running lean or rich. I meant a radiotor fluid temperature meter. With one of these you'll know if your overheating instead of what temp your exhaust is.

::EDIT:: Fixed some grammer errors and took out that you that wasn't suppsoed to be there

smoke traces

okay, so assuming i'll be at least at partial boost for the uphill, how long can i keep it that way safely while staying within acceptable temp range? probably just go trial and error huh?

not knocking your ideas guys, but does anybody with a boosted honda actually drive in the same conditions as im proposing?

radiator fluid temp gauge, isnt that what the stock temp gauge does?

is backing off the throttle periodically enough to rest the car? (as in, just for a few seconds during braking in corners, cuz even then, i heel toe to downshift) or do you actually have to stop for a while?

thanks again for putting up with all my questions.

GSRNetics

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by smoke traces &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

radiator fluid temp gauge, isnt that what the stock temp gauge does?

thanks again for putting up with all my questions.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Never watch your OEM temp guage for your engine. That just basically tells you when you ARE pretty much overheating? I personally see it as a overall temp guage for your engine. Getting a seperate temp guage is reccommended for your WATER as well as your OIL. Your water/oil needs to run at certain temps to run effectively and safely. If you can controll both you have a much better running turbo. The more heat you can get rid of the better it is. The whole thing with turbos is getting rid of that heat. Heat makes you lose power and ends up messing things up. If you like running continuous boost, you would might consider an aftermarket radiator, slim fan with higher cfm's over stock, good intercooler, oil cooler even possibly.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by smoke traces &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

is backing off the throttle periodically enough to rest the car? (as in, just for a few seconds during braking in corners, cuz even then, i heel toe to downshift) or do you actually have to stop for a while?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

I do not believe that is true. Most likely total shutdown of the car will be needed to bring temp's back down to normal safe running temps.

smoke traces

thanks guys, plenty of info here. so final plan is:

radiator, fan, oil/water temp gauges; my kit has an intercooler already, and maybe an oil cooler too if that all doesnt keep the temps down.

i'll post again when i'm boosted.