skuded

gsr 9lbs, rc440's tuned on s300, it seems as though when i downshift and am in full boost suddenly i loose all power and i damn near get thrown into my steering wheel, but if i ease into boost in 4th it wont cut out, its like im losing spark, it seems as though my spark is not jumping the gap on my bkr7 plugs, but its only been happening for the last week or so, after i replaced my throttle body, before i have never had this problem, any other suggestions? also the check engine light will flash suddenly when it cuts out, then stay off, but i cannot get a modis or verus to communicate to my computer and im wondering if having s300 causes this problem i do not know which computer i have but i have tried all years and models of civic and integra and i cannot get it to communicate

ohsnapzafingcu

iTrader: (2)

Sounds more of a boost cut or fuel cut. Are you use the 440's are enough injector for 9 lbs of boost?

Sounds like a mapsensor problem/boost cut. You're tuned though, right?

skuded

the car was tuned by t1 race development a while back, but i need to have it re-tuned, does it sound like a map sensor problem?

skuded

bump for info on no communication with scan tool, has anyone run into this problem with hondata?

94GSRMR

https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/my-compression-ratio-2799956/
try my page seem like the same symptoms i was having

kyden

of course its not gonna work, hondata is obd1.

nemisish20

When you did the new throttle body, did you dial in the TPS?

skuded

i have the adapters for obd1 and it has the software on the scan tool

And no i did not dial in the tps, i just set the tps as close to the spot that is was on the old tb, is there a procedure for dialing in the tps?

skuded

ok nevermind about the tps dial in, i just found specs on alldata, i set it as close as i could at idle .485volts and at wot 5.10 volts, hopefully this will fix my problem, the only thing is i have had my tps installed incorrectly before and the car would cut out at low rpms, the problem im having is the car cuts out when put in full boost suddenly, but if you creep into full boost in 4th or 5th the car doesnt cutout

Honda1949

Hi...sounds like boost cut,we had a similar problem...check the log to see were its set at and raise it a little above the last run you had when it fell on its face

GSRichard

Do you have a Hondata map sensor or GM 3 bar map sensor? If you're using the stock map sensor it only reads up to 10.5 lbs of boost and if you're using a 9lb spring, then it will "float"...hell, my 6lb spring floats to 10 on occasion in this cold weather.

The check engine light comes on because it simply cuts fuel to the engine, and comes back when boost is within spec. I would say this sounds exactly like a MAP sensor problem as this is what mine does...until I go bigger turbo and get the Hondata MAP sensor...

ohsnapzafingcu

iTrader: (2)

a bad map sensor will do the same, if you have an omni they're known to go bad and the diaphrams in them poop out.

skuded

yes it is an omni power 3 bar, i assumed this might be the problem, i guess i will just have to save up and buy the hondata 4 bar map, will i have to re-tune for the hondata 4 bar map even though i already have a 3 bar map, or is it not necessary since i will not be boosting over 9-12lbs

viper_boy403

iTrader: (1)

I had the same problem with my car. My plugs were gapped too wide. I forgot to switch them out before the dyno so I was running the stock .044" gapped plugs. Switched them out for some BKR7E gapped to .025 and the problem went away completely.

skuded

i will definantly be trying this first, its a 10$ fix, or a 400$ fix with a map and a tune

ohsnapzafingcu

iTrader: (2)

you can try an oem map sensor and boost under 10 pounds, see if that changes anything. or record what you datalog, when it hiccups, go back through it and tell us your map reading

ralph11sec

before you buy anything, get a laptop and datalog it.

skuded

wow i didnt realize i could download the hondata software for free onto my laptop, this will help me tons