I got a clutchnet. Its the "Fiber-Kevlar-Carbon Lining, Marcel Drive Plate, Sprung Hub, Street-Performance Clutch Disc" with the stage 1 PP. The numbers on this clutch was around 275ft-lbs but it feels exactly like my stock clutch. Can these numbers be trusted? Should I look into another PP to hold that power?

 

Great informative post! Thanks Rocket

 

So by looking at a dyno graph, or any other methods beside pulling out the clutch, is there anyway to tell if your clutch is slipping? I am using act extreme pressure plate with clutch specialities 6 puck unsprung on my 98 turbo prelude, and i had a 40hp decrease with no apparent reason. Just wondering if there is a way to tell if I need to replace it. My clutch was installed like a yr ago, and I just drive it on the street with min. hard driving.

 

I've been wondering something about my Clutchmasters Stage 3... This thing has been really good so far, really grippy and with my eurathane motor mounts if you drop the clutch it really snaps the whole car... but I noticed a quirk that maybe you can explain, whenever I'm in stop and start traffic for like 20-30 minutes or so, the clutch starts to slip really badly. Then once I'm out of the traffic and let the car sit for a bit it goes back to being really grippy. Why does that happen?

 

The reason it feels stock is because the pressure plate is not modified in anyway except some spray paint.

 

A clutch is slipping when your RPM's increase but your speed doesn't. If it is slipping bad then your dyno numbers will go down because power is not being transmitted to the wheels. But this may not necessarily be your case.


[Modified by Rocket, 10:20 PM 7/11/2002]

 

i think my clutch is slipping, but my rpms are going down not up. Well I got a new cluchmasters clutch put in. I broke it in using this method. 0-300 complete babying no vtec, 300-400 bringing the revs up a bit more, small amounts of vtec on occasion.400-550 a bit more vtec no redligning and 3 1->2 quick shifts(not redline but enough to spin the tires.) Now that i'm over 600 i'm noticing that the clutch doesn't grab as hard. It doesn't chirp on 1-2 shifts and if i power shift from 3-4 it just slips till it matches. My conclusion is that i glazed the surface, but how? Is there any way to remedy this?

 

to test if your clutch is slipping..go driving..go to a pretty steep hill...drive about 20 mph..put the car into 4th or 5th...while going up hill.hammer the gas.if your revs start to climb and your not accelerating ...your clutch is really slipping!

 

What stage CM unit do you have?

 

It has CM stage 3 PP witha stage 1 disk. One day i was having problems with loose groudn so my car kept shutting off, after i fixed it i drove the car for a quick 1->2 shift to make sure it wasn't falling out again(before it was falling out between shifts) and not even at redline and it chirped second. That was like at 100 miles, i drove it just like stated above since.

 

keep in mind it NEVER slips as in letting the revs go up. I've gone on the steepest hills and it never gives me a problem. And this decreasing rev thing only happens when i REALLY get on it and shift at very high rpms i.e. redline. Other than that its beutiful, i can even burnout without a problem(currently at 800 miles wiht the clutch)

 

I don't believe that there's a difference between CM's Stage 1, 2 and 3 pressure plates.

I am not trying to scare you but if you beat on your stage 1 disc (which is just a stock NKK disc) it's going to break.

As for the not chirping part the diaphram may have settled a bit and has less pressure.


[Modified by Rocket, 12:23 AM 7/12/2002]


[Modified by Rocket, 12:24 AM 7/12/2002]

 

is there anything i can do to stiffen the engagement up?

 

thanx for all the info Rocket. Very informative

 

Not really. If you like chirping the tires then you should run a disc with the Miba friction pads is the way to go and you can chirp all day long for years.


[Modified by Rocket, 8:05 PM 7/12/2002]

 

Anyone else (honda-tech) using any of the action clutches, seems like a really good product? Your guys thoughts.


[Modified by 98hx99b18c, 2:36 PM 7/12/2002]

 

It's mostly folks here in LA and some in Las Vegas running these clutches.

 

miba? would that be better than the carbon kevlar you were suggesting? who produces a disc with this material. And i VERY much appreciate your assistance on my little dilemna.

 

It's segmented Kevlar and will have a good bite. No problem for the help.

 

anyone have any guesses about my question? my stock clutch didn't do that...

 

How do you drive in this situation? When you say slip you mean it doesn't bite as hard?

 

Well, for the stop and start part I mean mostly first, maybe up to second, then stop, back to first ect... if I do this for long enough, once I'm out of the traffic anything more than half throttle the clutch slips, not just dosen't bite as hard... I only floored it once cuz I didn't know, and the rpms jumped but the car didn't speed up... I was just wondering if that was a property of the carbon/kevlar when it heats up too much?

 

What car are you driving? If it is a cable clutch you might need to adjust your cable by loosening it. Adjust it until you have about a dime's thickness of play in the release arm. If it is not a cable clutch it sounds like you might be in store for a new clutch. Did you have your flywheel resurfaced? If so they may have resurfaced it wrong too.

 

its a 5th gen prelude... hydrolic... it aint the clutch cuz its pretty new... and the flywheel was lightened and balanced at the same time... i don't think anything is 'wrong' because in any other driving condition the clutch bites hard, no complaints at all... fortunately I only get stuck in really bad traffic once or twice a year... just thought someone could enlighten me to this odd behaviour...

 

Stop and go traffic doesn't heat up an organic clutch to the point of slipping so I would imagine a carbon/kevlar disc should not slip since it is "heavy duty". When a clutch gets hot it fades just like brakes but since you only have "X" amount of pressure and travel slippage is inevitable. Your flywheel may have been machined improperly since the lip has a different height than the friction surface or your clutch is not up to par. A slipping clutch is not a good clutch regardless of how new it is.