I had a .60 .63 a/r turbo on my car with a ss autochrome mani, 2 inch down pipe and stock cat, and 3 inch cat back, and some other stuff the car ran fine until the turbo crapped out and started blowing oil throught the seals and then the mani took a hit and started cracking(i Know its a piece) but i like it better than a log, anyways besides the point, i changed the turbo .48 .60 a/r , found a brand new ss mani again cheap, really cheap, new never used and slapped those in there with a 3 inch down pipe and no cat, put a double bung for the second o2 sensor cus some said it worked for the check engine light, even thought some one said if it turned on for that it would not affect performance or mess up the ecu reading, anyways, after changing all this, now he only diff is that im running open wastegate vent to atmosphere and the new turbo doesnt have a filter atached to it, cus cant fing the flange to fit it, the turbo is brand new garrett, anyways now the damn thing will not stay at 6 psi, it will boost creep to 13 and cut off and i already discoed the manual boost controller, and just ran a straight line, so it would run right off the wastegate, which should be 6psi, we checked the wastegate and its appears to be fine, any other ideas on how to check if wastegate is messed up? also now the car is running idle at 1500rpm, and my speedometer is not working, it runs good till like 5 when its till 10psi and then its goes to 13 and obviously doesnt like it, oh im also running just a fmu,( and for the people who will say, thats a piece, pls i need help not bashing) right now i cant afford management, i just dropped a lot of money on the new turbo, any ideas? ask me any quest? ill be online all day today, thankx

migz

what kind of check engine lights are you having???

also what exactly does it do when it starts to run like crap? give some details

well simple, it detonates and the knock sensor catches it and basicly kills the power on the engine, its over boosting...

oh, i have not chcked what check engine is on there but i will by tonite...

help, anyone?

please do not drive the car until you find out what is wrong. you will be ruining your motor.

the CEL is most likely from the MAP sensor. you most likely are running a missing link or some kind of check valve correct?? well, the stock map sensor can only go up to 11psi of boost. since you are throwing 13psi on it, its throwing a code. i threw that code a while back b/c i didnt have any check valves. that code puts the ecu in a limp mode and it will make the car run really crappy and super rich. you need to fix the overboosting problem and you should be ok. 6psi on an fmu is fine, though i would not trust it running more boost than that. hope this helps you out some.

as for the boost problem, make sure you have the correct spring in the wastegate......and what type of wastegate is it??? brand?

let us know some more info so we can do the best to help you out.

well i do have a missing link on the MAP, its worked good for like a whole year, on the old set up, i dont have check valves, the spring is a 6psi spring tested when i fist got the set up, and its good, and when they get bad they boost less not more, lubed the whole wastegate with graphite lube, and i looks like its good... my problem is why is it overboosting? nd why is idle so high? and why is speedo now not working? also i have a turbo timer that has a/f reading and now thats not working either... wierd...

i had thought maybe there was the wrong spring in the wastegate, but i see this isnt the case. as for the speedo not working, that is something else.

the missing link is a check valve for the map sensor. but even with that on there, the map sensor is not able to go above 11psi. this is why people get 3bar map sensors, inorder to run more boost. in your case, it is doin it on its own.

did you check if the wg spring is stuck shut??

also, check what code you are throwing.
i see you are running two o2 sensors in your exhaust with no cat. im guessing you are obd2 by the sounds of it. that right there could be throwing a code because the second o2 is sensing that the catylitic converter is not doing its job. an easy fix for this is, take the second o2 sensor out of the exhaust and put a bolt in that bung. then just ziptie the second o2 out of the way, but leave it connected. this way, it tricks it into thinking the cat is working. try doing that, then reset the ecu. see if it still throws a code.

wow new battery time yet maybe? well you said the missing link worked fine before and its becuase you prolly were runnning under 11psi becuase anything above that the stock map sensor reads and throws cel(blinking cel) stupid limp mode. hence your runing spikes of 13

yea ist obd2, so just take the o2 out of the exhaust, i thought that wouldnt work, cus it has to read something...i put 2 bungs together so it would read less, so it thought it was working, i heard wrx people use that and it works fine, and also i guy, that is supposed to know a lot about hondas over here where i live said its just a dummy light when it reads that o2 is not working, i dont really know but i have a friend with a teg and she took it off and the check engine light came on but no diff, car ran exactly the same... oh i did check the wg to see if it stuck closed but it seems to be working, im gonna take it completely out today and check it again i hope its that, cus with the new turbo, it pulls really good till it overboosts...will having no filter on the turbo make a diff? thankx for you help man..

migz

new battery time? explain pls, what does that mean?

definately run a filter on your turbo.....dont want anything to get in there and ruin it.

it will work if the second o2 is ziptied in the atmosphere. the o2 will read cleaner air than the first o2, tricking the ecu to thinkin the cat is working. i ran like this for a long time with no problems.

i would get rid of that code, regardless of how it affects the driveability of the car.

this way you will narrow down the possiblities and have one less code to worry about

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by y8-turbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">new battery time? explain pls, what does that mean? </TD></TR></TABLE>
i was messing with ya becuase everything in your car seems to be turning off or not working.

i heard if you put tape over the second o2 sensor it wont throw a cel. are you running the check valves or missing link? maybe its running like crap cuz its seeing boost. just a thought.

check for leaks. change out your vacuum lines going to the wastegate. double check that everything is connected correctly and there are not any leaks anywhere.

everyone forget the WG placement on ssautos blow ***** &gt;?

take off your manifold and port out the WG opening. its like the sizse of a ****** dime. should be a lil under a quarter size .

cuz you upgraded to 3" the turbo is a lot more free flowing. the old set up the 2 inch DP worked. it kept backpressure and helped the WG do its job thru that tiny *** hole.


since you upgradewd the DP to 3" its having troubles keepin enough pressure to make the pos WG setup work.


port out the WG hole and u should be good

MY FRIEND WAS SAYING SOMETHING LIKE THAT BUT ON THE ACTUAL DUMP TUBE, HOW MUCH DO YOU THINK I SHOULD PORT IT? I HAVE A FEELING THAT THIS IS THE PROB, CUS IT CREEEPS UP RIGHT AFTER IT HITS LIKE 6 GRAND THATS WHEN THE MOTOR ACTUALLY WANTS TO GO.... IM GONNA FIX THAT AND POST AFTER THAT, THANKX