central_driver

Ill make this short and if anyone has any questions on anything i will answer them. I really need help with this. Im just wasting so much money...

I had a 50trim t3/t4 turbo and it ran great. Than i got an electric cutout right before my cat. About 1week later the turbo blew. No oil smoking or nothing. the turbo blades start hitting the compressor housing.

I went and got an ebay turbo t04e-3 and that thing blew up after 2races. it was hitting the housing again just like the old one.

So i decided no more ebay turbos. I went to spoolinperformance and got a full ramhorn manifold, precision sc34 turbo. 3" downpipe to an electric cutout and the rest of the pipe is just stock with the cat.

After about 2 days this turbo has done the exacte same thing the other turbos have done! This was a real expensive turbo. First off i hope they have warranties. if anyone knows please give me the # to call...

My turbo was sitting at 45degress or less. the drain was pointed at the bottom of the block for oil return everything line sup perfectly. i tested out the oil line by turning the car on and fluid did comeout so i no the turbo is getting oil. I have a HKS v.2 bov so seems to be working fine. tested it while at idle and it blew out air perfectly... I was told the electric cutout wont have anything to do with a turbo messing up like it does but can anyone give me any ideas?

btw this is a d16y8 97 civic coupe ex. car is on 17psi

jdm602

ebay turbos have crappy oil seals and a lot of guys have found that running an oil restrictor helps the seals from blowing out. could have been the problem with the first 2 turbos, but the sc34 should of held fine. guessing non ball bearing correct?

and spoolin is on here so you can pm him or go to their website and get the info there.

91jdmhatchback

You doing something wrong. The ebay turbo blowing is a given there junk. But you screwed up a precision turbo in 2 days. Thats odd.

Almost all turbo's that break come down to the installer/owner doing something wrong.

ed rex

is your wastegate opening up

kyden

can we get a pic of your drain setup? what size feed are you running?

central_driver

Ill get some pictures up. I don't have pics of the oil line to the oil pan because I already took the setup off but it's about a 45degree angle. I should mention I have modified my oil pump to get more oil pressure (port and shimed) does this sound like an oil problem or a bov notopening problem? I was told an electric cutout has nothing to do what a turbo messing up but ever since I got
one I had nothing but problems. I dunno what size feed line I'm running and I do have an oil resistor on. Is it best to not run an oil resistor with this turbo?

raene

If the wheel's hitting the housing it sounds like the housings have come loose. I'd check the housing bolts first and make sure they're all still there and snug.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

pictures would be necessary. The fact that you say that the Turbo is rotated 45° tells me that something is wrong with the placement of the turbocharger. Even if the drain flange is pointing downward correctly, the cartridge should not be more than 20° from a completely vertical position. So what that tells me, is that assuming that you have the correct size oil feed and oil return lines, the cartridge is still being starved of oil. The only way to know for sure is if you post pictures of the turbocharger within the engine bay.

central_driver

here r sum pictures.

kyden

you need to clock that center cartridge.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Yeah.. I was right. no wonder you're killing them. that feed flange portion of the cartridge is pointing straight at the camera. WAY too much of an angle. That center section needs to be as vertical as possible, then change your return flange so that the return LINE comes at a 45 degree angle (no 90 degree fittings) into the pan.

raene

Wow. Yeah. I take back what I said earlier. Your CHRA is pretty much on there at WAY too much of an angle. That'll kill any turbo pretty quickly.

central_driver

so no compressor surge would cause that kind of damage. its pretty much the angle of how the oil going ot the turbo than. **** my fault than. anyone tell me what size line i should be using and what size resistor i should be running. i plan to buy all new lines and angle the turbo straight up and down this next time.

central_driver

found out my problem i believe. Im 99% positive this is the problem.

i did check the oilline to see if fluid was coming out and it was but i didnt check the oil line once it was attached to the oil resistor! The oil resistor i took apart right now and noticed i couldnt see straight threw it. i got a allen wrench and started poking threw it and all these little metal shaving where coming out. most likely from my motor that only has 1,500miles even tho the oil has been changed twice. now i can see right threw the resistor and nothing is blocking its path. I guess that explains why when i took the oil feed line off that there was always a little bit of backed up oil and when i checked the bottom of the turbo today before i sent it back to precision i noticed it seemed liek it barely had any oil on the walls. there was actually slim to none in some spots.


im guessing this oil resistor has been plugged ever since i put my motor back together after it was ran for a couple miles because like i said the turbo was on when i first rebuilt my car and it lasted a full week than blew. The other 2 turbos blew in 1-2days because lack of oil and thats why i went threw 3 turbos. Lesson learned.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Good. Don't forget to make that cartridge vertical, or in addition to the other items you solved, you'll kill a 4th turbo.

30psi_gst

If you keep blowing seals its oil starvation. Simple as that. Check your lines, dont run a restrictor on journal bearing turbos. Some run them and have success, but they arent very small restrictors. The smallest i would think you would want to go would be a -3an line. I run open -4an lines on all mine, they might smoke a little, but the seals dont go out.

central_driver

Ok thanks.

blackeg

ehhh, i would still run a restrictor. ive found that using one will make the turbos stop smoking/leaking and last substantially longer. i had a 57 trim a while back that was on the way out smoking pretty good, put a restrictor in there and i got another year out of it. i would also take the shodan's advice and clock that turbo and clean up the return line.

while you are in there, i personally would make an extention for that open dump and downpipe cutout to get those gasses further out of the engine bay and away from the turbo inlet. lots of power can be lost from sucking in exhaust gasses

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

He needs to check that oil pressure in the line before running a restrictor. He may be making a bad situation worse. The smallest restrictor EVER needed for that kind of a turbo on a -3AN line is .065". At the smallest. But before getting that, check first. you can always put it on afterwards.

blackeg

very true. what minimum psi would you be looking for in the line in this situation?

Mr.Spec

i was gonna say .. your oil feed is backed up if you keep blowing turbos that fast

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

What's happening is that he's rotated the cartridge over 45 degrees. Oil is not backing up. Its not getting INTO the turbo properly.

His oil pressure should be about 20psi or so at idle, and about 70-85psi at WOT. any more than that requires a restrictor. But I have a feeling that once he corrects his oil feed line and rotates that cartridge correctly, he won't need one.

30psi_gst

70psi of oil pressure under WOT is what is recommended for most journal bearing turbos. For a BB if you decide to go that route in the future. I believe the number is around 30psi. If you get a restrictor, run the ForcedPerformance (FP) restrictor. They are high but they warrenty all of there turbos if the restrictor is run. The journal bearing restrictor (cant remember what color) is a .065, the BB is a .035.

HiProfile

Who told you 45*? You won't find any Garrett engineer that recommends more than 30*. That's 30* for the shaft angle or drain angle. I've ran stuff at 20-30*, one was a 20yr old turbo, and it stilll works fine.

The restrictor should be ~0.060" for that turbo, but ultimately dictated by your oil pressure. One Precision guy told me ~50psi max for a journal bearing Garrett, and ideally 20psi minimum for low-load situations.

Compressor surge can kill turbos, but not that size on that motor that quickly.



Now that you found the shavings, where do you have your oil feed tapped from? Is it a cheap ebay sandwich adapter that uses unfiltered oil? Only the GE and 1 other I've seen use filtered oil from the center hole for the feed lines.

central_driver

It's a t fitting on the back of the block infront of the oil sensor