build b16a or b18c1???
08-18-2004, 05:29 AM
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build b16a or b18c1???
Hey Guys,
I have a question regarding which block to build. I have access to both at the moment and can't seem to decide. I know a lot of people would say this is a no brainer question, b18c1 all the way...more torque! True but the b16a crank can'tbe beat! 9500 rpm with a fully built valve train is not a problem. What do u think? which one should I stick with?
I have a question regarding which block to build. I have access to both at the moment and can't seem to decide. I know a lot of people would say this is a no brainer question, b18c1 all the way...more torque! True but the b16a crank can'tbe beat! 9500 rpm with a fully built valve train is not a problem. What do u think? which one should I stick with?
08-18-2004, 05:32 AM
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Re: build b16a or b18c1??? (Chillinit)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chillinit »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I know a lot of people would say this is a no brainer question, b18c1 all the way</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you have access to both for the same price, "this is a no brainer question, b18c1 all the way" Yo
If you have access to both for the same price, "this is a no brainer question, b18c1 all the way" Yo
08-18-2004, 05:44 AM
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Re: build b16a or b18c1??? (si2die4)
well what car is it going into? You could rev to 10k on your b16 if ya wanted with a good valve train. The car im looking at now has all skunk2 valve train and thats where the b16 makes its max power around 7-8ish... so its not like it'll be running out up that high.
08-18-2004, 11:32 AM
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Re: (GRTechnologies)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GRTechnologies »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bigger is better</TD></TR></TABLE>
i don't know about that. any b series motor that makes more than 300whp whether its a 16 or 18c it's goona move. anybody can say bigger is better, but, very few will explain why. when we are talking about driving to work everyday, maintaining reliability and drivability, then bigger is not better. if that was the case, then he should go 84mm bore x 95mm crank. that would be a bigger motor, does that mean that it will be better? it will make more power, but, with a terrible r/s ratio & 8000+rpm shifts, good luck. those bearings will look like blunt ashes in no time, and i don't even need to mention the wear on the cylinders. and good luck trying to get that enormous tq to the ground. anyway, i look at it this way....if you want a drag racing beast, then yeah, build the bigger motor, but, when your goals are 300-350whp, i'd say the 16 is just as good if not better, especially, if you **** up a cylinder. the cost of a 16 block is a bill, another 18c is a 1K. yeah, you could sleeve the 18c but that would be an extra $1500 hunnies CAD for the sleeves and labour. lastly, look at your 16 plot vs. any other 18c running your kit & boost level. its all relative, man. in a 2300lbs car, 300+whp will run 12's easy, 11's on a good day. how much faster do you want to go? just determine your final goal and take it from there. displacement is not that important. this if F.I. not N/A. big #'s are for bench racers, fast ET's are for real racers. the 16 can take you a long way, acutally, pretty much any dohc b series motor with a kit and a 2300lbs chassis will run mad hard. i'm suprised that you even asked this question. do you really think people are going to say 16?
i'll say it again, look at your dyno, one more time.
Modified by B16C1 at 12:57 PM 8/20/2004
i don't know about that. any b series motor that makes more than 300whp whether its a 16 or 18c it's goona move. anybody can say bigger is better, but, very few will explain why. when we are talking about driving to work everyday, maintaining reliability and drivability, then bigger is not better. if that was the case, then he should go 84mm bore x 95mm crank. that would be a bigger motor, does that mean that it will be better? it will make more power, but, with a terrible r/s ratio & 8000+rpm shifts, good luck. those bearings will look like blunt ashes in no time, and i don't even need to mention the wear on the cylinders. and good luck trying to get that enormous tq to the ground. anyway, i look at it this way....if you want a drag racing beast, then yeah, build the bigger motor, but, when your goals are 300-350whp, i'd say the 16 is just as good if not better, especially, if you **** up a cylinder. the cost of a 16 block is a bill, another 18c is a 1K. yeah, you could sleeve the 18c but that would be an extra $1500 hunnies CAD for the sleeves and labour. lastly, look at your 16 plot vs. any other 18c running your kit & boost level. its all relative, man. in a 2300lbs car, 300+whp will run 12's easy, 11's on a good day. how much faster do you want to go? just determine your final goal and take it from there. displacement is not that important. this if F.I. not N/A. big #'s are for bench racers, fast ET's are for real racers. the 16 can take you a long way, acutally, pretty much any dohc b series motor with a kit and a 2300lbs chassis will run mad hard. i'm suprised that you even asked this question. do you really think people are going to say 16?
i'll say it again, look at your dyno, one more time.
Modified by B16C1 at 12:57 PM 8/20/2004
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08-18-2004, 01:18 PM
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Re: build b16a or b18c1??? (SJcivic)
if its going to be built, i dont think it really matters what motor you go with. looking for about 300-400whp? both motors built will get you there and be just as fast. one might have a little more torgue than the other but i dont think its that big of a deal since this isnt going to be a drag car(looking to extract as much power as possible).
08-19-2004, 04:37 AM
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Re: build b16a or b18c1??? (R THIS)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by R THIS »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sam , i think u should go with the b16...... but you know whats better that a b16??
a darton sleeved 2.0 litre b16
fun times </TD></TR></TABLE>
Darryl..I would love to built a 84mm b16 however I think my funds won't allow it. I'm sticking with stock bore for this setup.
The bigger is better theory doesn't always apply. Like B16c1 stated, I'm not looking to build a race car here. This is my everyday driver and goals are between 300-350whp on a relatively mild tune. I want my setup to last above all. The valve train will be fully built regardless of what block I decide to go with.
donkiman and swlabhot ...you guys reply like its such a clear cut answer...care to elaborate?
a darton sleeved 2.0 litre b16
fun times
</TD></TR></TABLE>Darryl..I would love to built a 84mm b16 however I think my funds won't allow it. I'm sticking with stock bore for this setup.
The bigger is better theory doesn't always apply. Like B16c1 stated, I'm not looking to build a race car here. This is my everyday driver and goals are between 300-350whp on a relatively mild tune. I want my setup to last above all. The valve train will be fully built regardless of what block I decide to go with.
donkiman and swlabhot ...you guys reply like its such a clear cut answer...care to elaborate?
08-19-2004, 06:44 AM
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Re: build b16a or b18c1??? (donkiman)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by donkiman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">obviously b18c1</TD></TR></TABLE>
o.k., so i figured he must have a dyno plot of his 18c in the link underneath his sig. seeing that he says obviously b18c, he must have some proof, right? well after noticing that donkiman has a better turbo manifold, bigger turbo, more efficient fmic and bigger injectors, i figure that his 18c must crush the 16 under the curve. i mean, come on, the 18c is a much better choice, because its obvious that the 18c is the way to go.......well, once again the mighty 16 represents. you made 22whp & 11wtq more than chillinit's 16....hmmmm.....the choice doesn't seem that obvious to me especially when you are also boosting 1psi more. the least one can do is explain or prove why. well after looking at your dyno, you proved that its worth a handful of whp & wtq over the 16. now, can you take the time to explain to us why, its better?
o.k., so i figured he must have a dyno plot of his 18c in the link underneath his sig. seeing that he says obviously b18c, he must have some proof, right? well after noticing that donkiman has a better turbo manifold, bigger turbo, more efficient fmic and bigger injectors, i figure that his 18c must crush the 16 under the curve. i mean, come on, the 18c is a much better choice, because its obvious that the 18c is the way to go.......well, once again the mighty 16 represents. you made 22whp & 11wtq more than chillinit's 16....hmmmm.....the choice doesn't seem that obvious to me especially when you are also boosting 1psi more. the least one can do is explain or prove why. well after looking at your dyno, you proved that its worth a handful of whp & wtq over the 16. now, can you take the time to explain to us why, its better?
08-23-2004, 06:12 AM
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Re: (B16C1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16C1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i don't know about that. any b series motor that makes more than 300whp whether its a 16 or 18c it's goona move. anybody can say bigger is better, but, very few will explain why. when we are talking about driving to work everyday, maintaining reliability and drivability, then bigger is not better. if that was the case, then he should go 84mm bore x 95mm crank. that would be a bigger motor, does that mean that it will be better? it will make more power, but, with a terrible r/s ratio & 8000+rpm shifts, good luck. those bearings will look like blunt ashes in no time, and i don't even need to mention the wear on the cylinders. and good luck trying to get that enormous tq to the ground. anyway, i look at it this way....if you want a drag racing beast, then yeah, build the bigger motor, but, when your goals are 300-350whp, i'd say the 16 is just as good if not better, especially, if you **** up a cylinder. the cost of a 16 block is a bill, another 18c is a 1K. yeah, you could sleeve the 18c but that would be an extra $1500 hunnies CAD for the sleeves and labour. lastly, look at your 16 plot vs. any other 18c running your kit & boost level. its all relative, man. in a 2300lbs car, 300+whp will run 12's easy, 11's on a good day. how much faster do you want to go? just determine your final goal and take it from there. displacement is not that important. this if F.I. not N/A. big #'s are for bench racers, fast ET's are for real racers. the 16 can take you a long way, acutally, pretty much any dohc b series motor with a kit and a 2300lbs chassis will run mad hard. i'm suprised that you even asked this question. do you really think people are going to say 16?
i'll say it again, look at your dyno, one more time.
Modified by B16C1 at 12:57 PM 8/20/2004</TD></TR></TABLE>
I do understand what u are saying here but many people boost the B18C with no problems as far as reliability. As far as your rod/stroke ratio, and the longer crank throw that u mentioned causing the bearings to turn to "ash" I think it is way over exaggerated. Theretically the 16 does have less side wall thrusting and less wear on bearings. Unfortunately in the real world it doesnt really matter between the 16 and the 18 as far as longetivity and reliability for about 99% of us driving street cars. Its all about tuning as everyone knows. As far as your mention of dyno plots goes. Sure the 16 and the 18 make similar HP on boost. But u forgot one small problem. torque. The 18 will murder the 16 in the torque department. Torque is king on the street. Not to mention the 18 will not just make more peak hp and torque, but most importantly it will make more power all throughout the power band. Now that is important. Not to mention the 18 will spool a turbo faster (exhaust gas pulses have more volume obviously from displacement). Not to mention when u are off boost I do like a bit of torque (hence why I have an H22 hatch), and to be honest the B16 is just a straight up torqueless wonder off boost. To be honest I have never really been impressed with B16's, and in my opinion they really arent fun to drive compared to larger displacement engines like the B18, B20 or H22. Dont get me wrong I am not knocking u or your opinion, cuz u seem to know your 16's, but I think your opinion is a bit biased cuz u have a 16. i just have a constructive disagreement thats all.
Modified by Honda_Tengoku at 7:23 AM 8/23/2004
Modified by Honda_Tengoku at 7:23 AM 8/23/2004
i don't know about that. any b series motor that makes more than 300whp whether its a 16 or 18c it's goona move. anybody can say bigger is better, but, very few will explain why. when we are talking about driving to work everyday, maintaining reliability and drivability, then bigger is not better. if that was the case, then he should go 84mm bore x 95mm crank. that would be a bigger motor, does that mean that it will be better? it will make more power, but, with a terrible r/s ratio & 8000+rpm shifts, good luck. those bearings will look like blunt ashes in no time, and i don't even need to mention the wear on the cylinders. and good luck trying to get that enormous tq to the ground. anyway, i look at it this way....if you want a drag racing beast, then yeah, build the bigger motor, but, when your goals are 300-350whp, i'd say the 16 is just as good if not better, especially, if you **** up a cylinder. the cost of a 16 block is a bill, another 18c is a 1K. yeah, you could sleeve the 18c but that would be an extra $1500 hunnies CAD for the sleeves and labour. lastly, look at your 16 plot vs. any other 18c running your kit & boost level. its all relative, man. in a 2300lbs car, 300+whp will run 12's easy, 11's on a good day. how much faster do you want to go? just determine your final goal and take it from there. displacement is not that important. this if F.I. not N/A. big #'s are for bench racers, fast ET's are for real racers. the 16 can take you a long way, acutally, pretty much any dohc b series motor with a kit and a 2300lbs chassis will run mad hard. i'm suprised that you even asked this question. do you really think people are going to say 16?
i'll say it again, look at your dyno, one more time.
Modified by B16C1 at 12:57 PM 8/20/2004</TD></TR></TABLE>
I do understand what u are saying here but many people boost the B18C with no problems as far as reliability. As far as your rod/stroke ratio, and the longer crank throw that u mentioned causing the bearings to turn to "ash" I think it is way over exaggerated. Theretically the 16 does have less side wall thrusting and less wear on bearings. Unfortunately in the real world it doesnt really matter between the 16 and the 18 as far as longetivity and reliability for about 99% of us driving street cars. Its all about tuning as everyone knows. As far as your mention of dyno plots goes. Sure the 16 and the 18 make similar HP on boost. But u forgot one small problem. torque. The 18 will murder the 16 in the torque department. Torque is king on the street. Not to mention the 18 will not just make more peak hp and torque, but most importantly it will make more power all throughout the power band. Now that is important. Not to mention the 18 will spool a turbo faster (exhaust gas pulses have more volume obviously from displacement). Not to mention when u are off boost I do like a bit of torque (hence why I have an H22 hatch), and to be honest the B16 is just a straight up torqueless wonder off boost. To be honest I have never really been impressed with B16's, and in my opinion they really arent fun to drive compared to larger displacement engines like the B18, B20 or H22. Dont get me wrong I am not knocking u or your opinion, cuz u seem to know your 16's, but I think your opinion is a bit biased cuz u have a 16. i just have a constructive disagreement thats all.
Modified by Honda_Tengoku at 7:23 AM 8/23/2004
Modified by Honda_Tengoku at 7:23 AM 8/23/2004
08-23-2004, 07:39 AM
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Re: (Honda_Tengoku)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Honda_Tengoku »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
As far as your mention of dyno plots goes. Sure the 16 and the 18 make similar HP on boost. But u forgot one small problem. torque. The 18 will murder the 16 in the torque department. Torque is king on the street. Not to mention the 18 will not just make more peak hp and torque, but most importantly it will make more power all throughout the power band. Now that is important. Not to mention the 18 will spool a turbo faster (exhaust gas pulses have more volume obviously from displacement). Not to mention when u are off boost I do like a bit of torque (hence why I have an H22 hatch), and to be honest the B16 is just a straight up torqueless wonder off boost. To be honest I have never really been impressed with B16's, and in my opinion they really arent fun to drive compared to larger displacement engines like the B18, B20 or H22. Dont get me wrong I am not knocking u or your opinion, cuz u seem to know your 16's, but I think your opinion is a bit biased cuz u have a 16. i just have a constructive disagreement thats all.
Modified by Honda_Tengoku at 7:23 AM 8/23/2004
Modified by Honda_Tengoku at 7:23 AM 8/23/2004</TD></TR></TABLE>
i can't believe this. somebody actually took the time to explain why the 18 seems to be better. i respect your view completely, but, the lack of tq in the 16 is not nearly as noticable in a light chassis, which this dude has. there is now way in hell that i'm going to dispute what you said. the 18 will make more tq, but, i don't know about, homocide. down low the 18 will produce more tq, but, above 5K its not that bad, and if you extend the revs of the 16 600-800rpm more you'll increase its peak hp potential (with proper intake, tuning and such). i've raced (n/a) many 18c'd up eg hatches with more mods than i have on my 16 and sent them home packing. why? besides the fact that i'm a good driver, i think it's my overall set up, and that is what separates a hard running 16 from what some call a tqless wonder. as for the 18 spooling a turbo faster, well..... when the 16(or any motor for that matter) is suited with the proper turbo, spool time is in some cases non-existant. we all know that 90% of the people on here buy turbo's that are too big, and that is what hinders responsiveness. i've seen a bone stock 16 make 342whp & 269wtq from a t-t bird t3 @15psi. so why does everybody buy t3/t4's?
because they are plot ******, and i could care less what your or even my car makes on the dyno. as long as its tuned and makes nice power, i'm happy. we drive ff cars, why would somebody want to make more than 300whp as a daily driver? its hard enough putting the power down being ff, imagine what that is like with corvette Z06 whp. which brings me to another point, less tq=more traction. i am a bit biased, you are right, but i also know that it doesn't take much for a light chassis turbo b series to run hard, and when a car makes a xxx amount of whp & wtq, after a certain level one becomes counter productive. anyway, i appreciate your input. peace
As far as your mention of dyno plots goes. Sure the 16 and the 18 make similar HP on boost. But u forgot one small problem. torque. The 18 will murder the 16 in the torque department. Torque is king on the street. Not to mention the 18 will not just make more peak hp and torque, but most importantly it will make more power all throughout the power band. Now that is important. Not to mention the 18 will spool a turbo faster (exhaust gas pulses have more volume obviously from displacement). Not to mention when u are off boost I do like a bit of torque (hence why I have an H22 hatch), and to be honest the B16 is just a straight up torqueless wonder off boost. To be honest I have never really been impressed with B16's, and in my opinion they really arent fun to drive compared to larger displacement engines like the B18, B20 or H22. Dont get me wrong I am not knocking u or your opinion, cuz u seem to know your 16's, but I think your opinion is a bit biased cuz u have a 16. i just have a constructive disagreement thats all.
Modified by Honda_Tengoku at 7:23 AM 8/23/2004
Modified by Honda_Tengoku at 7:23 AM 8/23/2004</TD></TR></TABLE>
i can't believe this. somebody actually took the time to explain why the 18 seems to be better. i respect your view completely, but, the lack of tq in the 16 is not nearly as noticable in a light chassis, which this dude has. there is now way in hell that i'm going to dispute what you said. the 18 will make more tq, but, i don't know about, homocide. down low the 18 will produce more tq, but, above 5K its not that bad, and if you extend the revs of the 16 600-800rpm more you'll increase its peak hp potential (with proper intake, tuning and such). i've raced (n/a) many 18c'd up eg hatches with more mods than i have on my 16 and sent them home packing. why? besides the fact that i'm a good driver, i think it's my overall set up, and that is what separates a hard running 16 from what some call a tqless wonder. as for the 18 spooling a turbo faster, well..... when the 16(or any motor for that matter) is suited with the proper turbo, spool time is in some cases non-existant. we all know that 90% of the people on here buy turbo's that are too big, and that is what hinders responsiveness. i've seen a bone stock 16 make 342whp & 269wtq from a t-t bird t3 @15psi. so why does everybody buy t3/t4's?
because they are plot ******, and i could care less what your or even my car makes on the dyno. as long as its tuned and makes nice power, i'm happy. we drive ff cars, why would somebody want to make more than 300whp as a daily driver? its hard enough putting the power down being ff, imagine what that is like with corvette Z06 whp. which brings me to another point, less tq=more traction. i am a bit biased, you are right, but i also know that it doesn't take much for a light chassis turbo b series to run hard, and when a car makes a xxx amount of whp & wtq, after a certain level one becomes counter productive. anyway, i appreciate your input. peace
08-23-2004, 06:47 PM
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Re: (B16C1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16C1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i can't believe this. somebody actually took the time to explain why the 18 seems to be better. i respect your view completely, but, the lack of tq in the 16 is not nearly as noticable in a light chassis, which this dude has. there is now way in hell that i'm going to dispute what you said. the 18 will make more tq, but, i don't know about, homocide. down low the 18 will produce more tq, but, above 5K its not that bad, and if you extend the revs of the 16 600-800rpm more you'll increase its peak hp potential (with proper intake, tuning and such). i've raced (n/a) many 18c'd up eg hatches with more mods than i have on my 16 and sent them home packing. why? besides the fact that i'm a good driver, i think it's my overall set up, and that is what separates a hard running 16 from what some call a tqless wonder. as for the 18 spooling a turbo faster, well..... when the 16(or any motor for that matter) is suited with the proper turbo, spool time is in some cases non-existant. we all know that 90% of the people on here buy turbo's that are too big, and that is what hinders responsiveness. i've seen a bone stock 16 make 342whp & 269wtq from a t-t bird t3 @15psi. so why does everybody buy t3/t4's?
because they are plot ******, and i could care less what your or even my car makes on the dyno. as long as its tuned and makes nice power, i'm happy. we drive ff cars, why would somebody want to make more than 300whp as a daily driver? its hard enough putting the power down being ff, imagine what that is like with corvette Z06 whp. which brings me to another point, less tq=more traction. i am a bit biased, you are right, but i also know that it doesn't take much for a light chassis turbo b series to run hard, and when a car makes a xxx amount of whp & wtq, after a certain level one becomes counter productive. anyway, i appreciate your input. peace
</TD></TR></TABLE>
AHhhhh, someone else that has learned what/where the internet forums go wrong... people blindly believe other people based on opinions from a few people (gotta love the idiots).
Rich
i can't believe this. somebody actually took the time to explain why the 18 seems to be better. i respect your view completely, but, the lack of tq in the 16 is not nearly as noticable in a light chassis, which this dude has. there is now way in hell that i'm going to dispute what you said. the 18 will make more tq, but, i don't know about, homocide. down low the 18 will produce more tq, but, above 5K its not that bad, and if you extend the revs of the 16 600-800rpm more you'll increase its peak hp potential (with proper intake, tuning and such). i've raced (n/a) many 18c'd up eg hatches with more mods than i have on my 16 and sent them home packing. why? besides the fact that i'm a good driver, i think it's my overall set up, and that is what separates a hard running 16 from what some call a tqless wonder. as for the 18 spooling a turbo faster, well..... when the 16(or any motor for that matter) is suited with the proper turbo, spool time is in some cases non-existant. we all know that 90% of the people on here buy turbo's that are too big, and that is what hinders responsiveness. i've seen a bone stock 16 make 342whp & 269wtq from a t-t bird t3 @15psi. so why does everybody buy t3/t4's?
because they are plot ******, and i could care less what your or even my car makes on the dyno. as long as its tuned and makes nice power, i'm happy. we drive ff cars, why would somebody want to make more than 300whp as a daily driver? its hard enough putting the power down being ff, imagine what that is like with corvette Z06 whp. which brings me to another point, less tq=more traction. i am a bit biased, you are right, but i also know that it doesn't take much for a light chassis turbo b series to run hard, and when a car makes a xxx amount of whp & wtq, after a certain level one becomes counter productive. anyway, i appreciate your input. peace
</TD></TR></TABLE>
AHhhhh, someone else that has learned what/where the internet forums go wrong... people blindly believe other people based on opinions from a few people (gotta love the idiots).
Rich
08-23-2004, 07:15 PM
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Re: build b16a or b18c1??? (Chillinit)
well if you want 300 hp wouldn't it be better to start out with a motor that already has more power and torque? then it wouldn't be as hard to achieve the goal. Just an example you build a 1.5 dx motor and get 250hp and you build a gsr motor and get 250 hp well your dx motor starts out at like 80 hp and the gsr is like 140hp to the wheels. Which one is going to be more reliable? your dx is going to be pretty much maxed out where you still have a lot more potential out of the gsr. I guess any honda motor that has 300 hp wouldn't be wise to drive everyday to and from work.
08-24-2004, 09:43 AM
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Re: build b16a or b18c1??? (gsrpwrdhb22)
Im not claiming to know anything, but Ive always wanted to throw this out.
We know the b16 has no torque in the lower rpm range, and the b18 has more.
But it seems like everyone with FI complains that first gear is useless and all they do is spin through it.
So my question is....why does it matter if the b16 has xx lb/ft less torque if its going to be spinning the hell out of the tires anyway?
Milan
We know the b16 has no torque in the lower rpm range, and the b18 has more.
But it seems like everyone with FI complains that first gear is useless and all they do is spin through it.
So my question is....why does it matter if the b16 has xx lb/ft less torque if its going to be spinning the hell out of the tires anyway?
Milan
08-24-2004, 10:28 AM
#22
Honda-Tech Member
Re: build b16a or b18c1??? (GetawayinMoscow)
They will both spin the tires like crazy when built/turbo. Trust me I know. The plus to having the B18c is it will make more power due to the displacement. Correct me if I'm wrong...
"There's no replacement for displacement."
I have a b16a2 that is built, but I just bought a b18c shortblock to start a new build.
If you have access to both I would go with the B18c
"There's no replacement for displacement."
I have a b16a2 that is built, but I just bought a b18c shortblock to start a new build.
If you have access to both I would go with the B18c
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