hi,
basically, what all internal components do I need to replace on my B18 to withstand, oh say roughly 12 to 14 lbs of boost? I'm thinking aftermarket pistons with stock compression and rods? Also, will porting&polishing the head and boring out the throttle body, help with boosting @ all? I know ill have to run diff. injectors, and fuel components . . . but other than that . . . what else should I consider building on the motor?

thanks

 

k cmon now, (bump)

 

you dont need anything internally to run 12 psi, or make approx. 300 whp... it is all in the tuning, and the safety margin, but it has been done many times... porting the head will free up power, but is not necessary for your power level. i would spend that money on hondata or aem ems (i use aem and i am very happy with it) and some good tuning... leave the throtte body and the head alone for now. Just my opinion.

 

ahhh ic. but I wanna be safe, and make it a lil more durable . . . . so what ? pistons and rods? what else? and what kind of compression on the pistons? stock?

thanks

 

from what I've been told and understand, 12-14 psi on stock internals is kinda pushing it (correct me if im wrong) however, you may get luckey... If you want to spend the money on internals, (which is a very smart investment) you could easly go for 12-14 and higher, you will also need larger injectors, say.. 440's, 450's with a resistor box, fuel management and VERY good tuning, along with a fuel pump and a few other goodies. The best way to find info on boostin, is to SEARCH, that is the best thing to do, every question you will prolly ask can be found in the HT archives. Good luck bro
keep us posted

 

last year, my set up consisted of a stock b18b, garett t3to4e tial wastegate, greddy type s bov, drag 3 intercooler and the car made aprox 280 whp at 14 psi... i drove it all summer with no problems.. i would say that of you want to beef it up, i would reccomend
arp headstuds
cometic headgasket
good pistons
good rods

** i am using CP pistons and Pauter rods this year**
if you want to step it up even more, you could get an intake manifold and throttle body... but before you do things to the internals, make sure you have a good clutch, good intercooler, good fuel management, 3 inch mandrel bent exhaust...
make sure the easy things are the best they can be!!!

 

the lower compression the less power you will have out of boost, but also with lower compression, you can run higher boost levels on the same gas (pump gas)...
i would stay around stock compression, maybe go a little lower (my ls will be 9.0.1 this year)

 

Instead of buying piston and rods. You should just save your money. Run this car at 12-14 psi. With the money you save from buying piston, rods, bearings, seals, and bore/sleeve. You can get two LS engine. Just run it and wait untill it blows up, then put in a new one and ran it again. either way your going to pull the engine out, might as well wait. Turst me, i went the other way, and some times i just wish i did it this way. Save you so much money.

 

yeah, but id rather not keeping but ls's in my car . . . . i mean, i want something i can tune and maybe even eventually run higher than 14 psi . . . .

 

If you want to do it the right way, you have to put in about 3500.00-4000.00 piston = 400, rods = 400, bearings = 200, seals = 200, sleeves = 850-1000, water/oil pump = 300, camshaft = 300, valves = 300, valve spring = 200, have the head resurface = 50, valve angle job and head ported = 300 and thats not having them installed. So its up to you. I have heard of stock block running 20 psi, I am not saying they will last. It can be done, with a lot of timing taken out. You should spend money on the head because on my LS the power reaches its peak at 6000 rpm and all of a sudden the power drops about 100 hp. So from 6000-7000 i loss 100 hp. check all the turbo ls dyno and you will see what i am talking about. "Boost doesn't hurt motor, Horse power does"

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CaptainMorgan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you want to do it the right way, you have to put in about 3500.00-4000.00 piston = 400, rods = 400, bearings = 200, seals = 200, sleeves = 850-1000, water/oil pump = 300, camshaft = 300, valves = 300, valve spring = 200, have the head resurface = 50, valve angle job and head ported = 300 and thats not having them installed. So its up to you. I have heard of stock block running 20 psi, I am not saying they will last. It can be done, with a lot of timing taken out. You should spend money on the head because on my LS the power reaches its peak at 6000 rpm and all of a sudden the power drops about 100 hp. So from 6000-7000 i loss 100 hp. check all the turbo ls dyno and you will see what i am talking about. "Boost doesn't hurt motor, Horse power does"</TD></TR></TABLE>

what power drop?? mine seems pretty stable to me. stock head w/ ross 8.5:1 pistons, eagle rods, str blockgaurd, stock sleeves.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shermanyang &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

what power drop?? mine seems pretty stable to me. stock head w/ ross 8.5:1 pistons, eagle rods, str blockgaurd, stock sleeves.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

see on your dyno your tq peaked at 264 @ 72 mph, but by the time your hit 95 mph your at 220 tq. thats about 44 tq lost. When you go higher in power thats were your going to see the differences in power lost. I am making 360 tq and by the time i get to 7200 rpm i am at 240 tq. Look at some of the high horse power LS thats where your really going to see the big power drop. Because the head wont beable to flow anymore.

 

Turbo + Reliable = Lots of ******* Money

Benson Sleeves
Pauter Rods
CP Pistons
ARP Headstuds
New Headgasket [OEM or Cometic]
Pro Drive Oil Pump
Every other expensive part you can put down there.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CaptainMorgan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

see on your dyno your tq peaked at 264 @ 72 mph, but by the time your hit 95 mph your at 220 tq. thats about 44 tq lost. When you go higher in power thats were your going to see the differences in power lost. I am making 360 tq and by the time i get to 7200 rpm i am at 240 tq. Look at some of the high horse power LS thats where your really going to see the big power drop. Because the head wont beable to flow anymore. </TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah i see what you're saying. but once you get up there horsepower usually takes over. if i had a dyno sheet of my 356whp run i'd show you as well...my torque curve was about the same...it only dropped about 25wtq...from 322wtq to 295wtq or something. it's hardly noticeable when driving though since going from 6k to 7.2k only takes a tenth of a second or less. either way, i know what you're saying.