I'm running a turbonetics t3/t04b with low compression pistons on a D16Y8 and I hit full boost at 4.5 pulling hard.

 

heres some pics it looks pretty clean

 

man whats with that itty bitty farty ?

 

ive heard there is a REALLY BIG diffrence in changeing a stock exahust, So if that is stock exahust, it may be your problem, Try unbkloting it and drive it.

 

im guessing you had the tight *** t25 on before 8.5 comp? right?
now you jumped to 8.5 , not to mention a t3t4 which is humongous compared to a peezy t25, you also have a big hot side too .63,

 

Ok this is what you do if you want it to make it run better:
A.Pick up a .48 a/r exhaust housing $100-$150 new
B.Drop the exhaust as much as possible (no muffler,cat,etc... or just run bigger piping back)
c.Tune it.

 

What is that rubber tube coming off the centersection? Don't tell me thats the drain to the oil pan? If is, you have big problems, that is a Gravity feed line, meaning, it doesn't have pressure on it, it uses Gravity to carry the oil back ot the oil pan. Pointing up, gravity doesn't have much effect on it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sleeping4drLS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Cheapest solution: 50-shot with a Hobbs Turbo/Nitrous Switch to turn on/off the NAAAAWZ at a certain boost pressure.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not everyone likes to keep the bottle warm, but it works. Friend of mine with a 4.2L Stage 2 GN with a ball-bearing T76 has a single NOS fogger setup for 75 HP, window switch to turn it on @ 3000, off at 7100, WOT switch, and a hobbs switch to turn it off once he hits 22 PSI (he runs 24 PSI max) doesn't use it from a dead dig because he can build boost pretty good on the trans brake, but it's killer for getting that big huffer running from a roll, and it works fine for him on pump gas + alky injection

Or, of course, you could just go to a smaller turbo

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOUNDEFFECTS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok this is what you do if you want it to make it run better:
A. Pick up a .48 a/r exhaust housing $100-$150 new
B. Get 3" exhaust
C. Tune it.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Try what this man sugguests...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GraphiteAccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


What is that rubber tube coming off the centersection? Don't tell me thats the drain to the oil pan? If is, you have big problems, that is a Gravity feed line, meaning, it doesn't have pressure on it, it uses Gravity to carry the oil back ot the oil pan. Pointing up, gravity doesn't have much effect on it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah i know its bad for the oil retun line to be shooting up because the oil return needs gravity to pull it down.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Midwestrider &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


Try what this man sugguests...

</TD></TR></TABLE>

where could i get a .48 a/r exhaust housing?

 

Don't worry about buying the turbine housing seperately, you'll be buying a whole new turbo very soon if you don't fix that oil return!

 

i dont know what im gonna do cuz if i flip the turbo i'll have to redo the piping and i dont have the $$ and i dont think the turbo will fit under the hood if i flip it
the seals on the turbo are already blown so i need a rebuild asap

 

cant you just rotate the center section, without moving either the exhaust or compressor housing??

 

i think he is right! I believe you can rotate the center or the housings to make the return point down.

there is hope,
Josh

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2.2Lcivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">cant you just rotate the center section, without moving either the exhaust or compressor housing??</TD></TR></TABLE>


hello, its are 1 million dollar winner...

Honestly, how about you step back and research alittle bit more? You don't know how to clock the housing, you put a huge turbo on a little motor, with lower then stock compression....just a suggestion...

 

man, you are brave. you spend all that money on your car, I assume you did the install judging from the oil return line and yet you apparently didn't spend enough time researching and learning. you just bought stuff and slapped it on there. I'm not trying to be a dick but man you can cause a lot of damage by not making sure you know your $hit 100%. A turbo rebuild isn't cheap and it was just a simple error that caused it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by symba &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">man, you are brave. you spend all that money on your car, I assume you did the install judging from the oil return line and yet you apparently didn't spend enough time researching and learning. you just bought stuff and slapped it on there. I'm not trying to be a dick but man you can cause a lot of damage by not making sure you know your $hit 100%. A turbo rebuild isn't cheap and it was just a simple error that caused it. </TD></TR></TABLE>


Symba is right, i don't mean to come across as mean or anything, but its true...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by symba &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">man, you are brave. you spend all that money on your car, I assume you did the install judging from the oil return line and yet you apparently didn't spend enough time researching and learning. you just bought stuff and slapped it on there. I'm not trying to be a dick but man you can cause a lot of damage by not making sure you know your $hit 100%. A turbo rebuild isn't cheap and it was just a simple error that caused it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah i know im a dumb *** cuz i blew 600 for a turbo now it needs a rebuild which is gonna be 250+

 

Where you located in Wisconsin?

 

First things first, fix that oil return, that's horrendous.

Next, I'd bet that if you ran open downpipe that turbo would spool 500+ rpm's earlier, a stock exhaust is very restrictive and makes lots of lag.

I would plumb a cutout into your downpipe somewhere or get a 3" exhaust, that will help the lag.

so will rebuilding the turbo and so will getting the whole motor tuned on the dyno, invest in hondata, if you already haven't, for a low-buck solution. If all of the above fails then you might want to go ahead and trade turbo's with someone.

 

Man what were you thinking?!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dynomax27 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

yeah i know im a dumb *** cuz i blew 600 for a turbo now it needs a rebuild which is gonna be 250+ </TD></TR></TABLE>


Honestly, find a straight T3 or something of that sort. may need a new downpipe, but it'll be worth it. then sell that turbo....

 

ok, now that you've been beaten up enough about the oil line...
This is my opinion as to why you have such bad spool-up

your turbine a/r is too big - a .48a/r would work better

your compression is a little bit low - the norm is 9.0:1 to 10.0:1.(need flawless
tuning for 10.0:1)

that diy log manifoldmightbe a problem..don't know for sure without having specs but maybe its a little restrictive.

Your intercooler piping might be a little large. 2.25 all around would have been fine for you.

Now, without ripping your entire system apart, you can either just rebuild that turbo and get a smaller turbine while you're at it or you can just buy a straight t3 turbo and sell the one you have. (just let them know it needs a rebuild)

smaller turbine with rebuild may be a little cheaper than a new turbo. check out http://www.cheapturbo.com

 

Dude, since you are going to remove that turbo immediately, here is how to clock it.

Remove the bolts holding the exhaust section and remove the snap-ring or bolts holding the compressor side and then turn them. I can't see if its snap ring or bolts, but you have to properly clock that turbo.

Yes, the hot AR is too big.

No, I don't think that manifold is a problem.

Yes, your tiny stock exhaust is a problem.

Good luck man.

Randy