When I decrease duty cycle the boost goes up.

 

The lower the duty cycle the lower the pressure, since the valve opens less.

Duty cycle is how much the valve cycles. High number = more cycles = less boost.

 

I think it depends on your particular valve. The S300 has an option to invert operation depending on the kind you have. Mine was one of those I had to invert. I imagine some valves are normally open and others are normally closed.

If I put in 30% duty cycle lets just say it makes 10 lbs of boost. Then I'll put 25% duty cycle and now it makes 15 lbs of boost. Does the opposite if what you'd expect.

 

we cant seem to get my boost by gear to work boost cut every time, i sent the datalog,the s300 file etc to hondata, and all they said is check my waste gate, which clearly isn't the problem because its holds waste gate "10psi" , and it works fine with duty cycle, but the boost by gear just hits boost cut, also with mine the lower the duty the higher the boost. waste gate in 10psi 50% duty is 14psi 45% is 17psi im running a mac solenoid

 

My boost by gear works great. Perhaps post a screen shot of your boost by gear settings page on here for myself and others to look at. Maybe someone can spot the fault.

BTW I wouldn't be surprised of Hondata just glanced over your stuff and just threw out an option like wastegate. I don't think they have the resources to help every end user. When I first started playing with my S300 I emailed Hondata with some issues and they just old me to go through my reseller that I purchased it from and when I responded saying I had purchased the unit used and didn't have that option they just said sorry out of luck.

 

In the set up for boost control under normally closed or open. Select the opposite from what you have selected. As duty increase boost should also. If boost increases as duty decreases , the temp compensation tales won't work correctly.

 

Not true. My boost increases as duty cycle decreases and the temp compensation table works just fine. You just have to change the values in the table accordingly.

 

you flipped the the DC adjustment?

I would think the option for normally closed or normally open would allow you to set it up so boost always increases with DC

 

Have you tried another program.. something like like Neptune..?
The S300 isn't the end all be all of tuning software.

All experinces I've had with it, have been pretty much flawless.(neptune)

 

That depends on how you have my controller or noid wired in..

 

No the option is for different kinds of solenoids. Some are normally open and some are normally closed. Read the help on that page in the S300. It explains it all.

 

We have everything setup correctly and try running boost buy gear and just hits boost cut even when put at 0 psi like OBRjosh stated. Its strange we have the setting correct for the MAC normally closed solenoid but we have to reduce duty cycle to get more boost and when increase duty cycle we get less boost on the fixed duty cycle setting. We havent tried the boost by gear with this method but i think next time at the track we will. We also tried the normally open setting and that doesnt change anything. Very strange to say the least but at least we figure it out.

Malcolm no matter which way you slice it the ecu cannot interpolate duty cycle and boost pressure. IDK why but it cant. The only thing it can do is decrease or increase due to intake temps when running boost by gear. Even when you run boost by gear target psi in the box above you have to set what duty equals what boost in the pressure vs duty cycle section.

best thing to do is make pulls and write down how much duty cycle equals what boost pressure. Then input all that data into that pressure vs duty cycle section. Then when you do boost by gear target psi it will interpolate off of those settings. When it gets warmer outside or colder outside and your over or underboosting make the temp corrections and you will have a rock solid boost control system

 

Where is your Solenoid mounted? There is a chart to compensate for ambient tempatures since it should change in different ambient tempatures...however there is nothing to compensate for Transient Heat. If you have your solenoid is close to any high heat sources it can most definately effect its operations....Most of those mac solenoids are only desinged to around 176 or 80C max....Certain locations in the engine bay especially around the turbo can easily exceed those tempatures. Just something too keep in mind

Little off topic but the quick spool table has increased my response significantly.

 

Agreed about mounting location. Mine was overheating and acting all sorts of stupid in the past

 

cooler air will increase boost pressures. also if you haven't already done so, move your iat into your charge pipe and not the IM. heatsoak will **** up your iat corrections.


Posted from Honda-tech.com App for Android

 

Yes that is correct. Overtime I've gotten mine setup pretty nicely. It's a pain figuring out initially. Here in KC it can be 60F in the afternoon and 25F that evening so I got a lot of experience playing with the temperature tables to try and keep boost somewhat consistent. I really wish it could just reference boost from the MAP and figure out duty cycle but oh well. Maybe I will build my own controller someday that does just that.

Yes my IAT is in the charge pipe.

 

who socketed the ecu? 99% of the time i have run into the issue of hitting boost cut when the boost control is turned on has resulted in a ecu socketing problem.

also somewhere along the lines i guess hondata was telling people to put resistors in-line with their boost solenoids...that has resulted in problems every time as well.

 

AEM does just that.

I asked Hondata awhile back about this feature and this is what they had to say:

http://www.hondata.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=12002

Maybe if enough people bug them they will add it.

 

Thanks for the info Spectacle. I'm sure they have their reasons if they say they do. I'm sure coding up the S300 software is no easy feat. Instead of all the correction tables they point out it seems like they could just make an add on to the existing setup. Sort of like open loop and closed loop on the fuel maps. Once you have your boost duty cycles dialed in or close to it like I have now it should have a "closed loop" option and now it'll reference to the MAP sensor to make slight adjustments as it goes off because of air temps etc.

 

Is your solenoid set up like the diagram?

 

It is although that diagram is very generic and doesn't label the ports on the solenoid. The ports are specific (at least mine was labeled as such). It specified which port vented to atmosphere and which went to wastegate and turbo.

I have this solenoid from phearable.net

 

The solenoid is connected to the top port of the wastegate? or the side?

 

My wastegate only has a top and bottom port. There is no side port. That diagram is intending to show you that pressure goes to the top side of the diaphragm.
My wastegate is a Tail. May I ask what is with the line of questioning? Is there a point you're trying to make or are you trying to troubleshoot something?

 

Trying to help out, and learn myself. Hopefully this post can be useful to others as well.

If the solenoid is connected below the diaphragm, I can understand why increased dc decrease boost.

 

Have you verified the solenoid is working properly?

And like above, I've never liked hondatas boost control methods... so much so it was worth me selling a chipped ecu and horse trading for an AEM ems... you tell it the solenoid, what boost level to run where, what rpm/load, gear, maybe adjust how aggressive the curve is (gain for people with a separate boost controller) and all you do is press the right pedal... the ecu looks at the map sensor value and does everything off of that.

Doesn't get much easier