For some reason, we have a normal sc series precision running an E cover and we have fitment issues with the blox cast manifold.

Does anyone else have the same issue as us in that the turbo cover hits the block right next to the engine stamp?

im aware that we grind the webbing some near there, but we are talking about the front of the turbo compressor cover hitting the side of the number stamp...

Any ideas or experience would be great?

 

are you running a 4 bolt style? iirc most a/c compatible manifolds are designed around the 5 bolt flanges.

 

Either way, 4 bolt or 5 bolt, get the grinder out and start working. For the blox manifold, that's how it works.

 

i am running the 5 bolt, i was told blox was designed to run 5 bolt.

Ive ground down a few blocks before for the drag and revhards, and normally id be fine already. This one is hitting it on the front of the compressor (inlet) against the block where the side of the numbers are stamped...

 

You have to grind the block. I had the Blox with sc34 5bolt and you have to grind the block. NOt fun

 

did u grind the side of the block, where the number is stamped on that tab? thats where im abit worried...

 

Got your messages... Good luck.

 

I had an ebay turbo with the UGR manifold (really smilar to blox) once and it would have taken A LOT of grinding to get it to work in that configuration. I ended up flipping the turbo around and running without AC.

 

Ebay turbos sit even close to the block than a garrett or precision would so they require A LOT of grinding over a real turbo unit

 

Yep you grind where the number is. You will see where it rubs when you try to mount it.

 

Thanks for your help guys, we got it to fit eventually, it was not as bad as we thought and only had to remove abit more near the engine number.

Shodan, will contact you very soon for a turbo. We are looking at another cast setup but using a custom ball bearing unit with a 5 bolt rear, when are you free

 

Mac is the man and is very knowledgable

 

One thing people have done is use longer studs (or bolts) in the head and sandwich a bare flange between the head and manifold. Basically it spaces it out 3/8-1/2" inch.

 

You Melbourne blokes have got to stop that cheap cast stuff tying to get every turbo in the world to fit. That's why in the states only a smaller percentage of people still use these, and even then they know the risks.

 

I believe the B housing has better clearance.

 

Yeah. It will. He's made his fix and knows better next time

 

I need a GT or a silver surfer turbo in a 5bolt, i need spool time!