Interesting stuff...keep us updated.

 

Instead of using JB or opoxy, can the block be sealed by welding the ends of the posts?

 

Interesting idea...try it and let us know.

Sonny


[Modified by Sonny, 6:08 PM 7/4/2002]

 

i was telling my dad about that and he suggested welding it also, but wondered if it will warp anything like the cylinder walls or anything? just a thought. what does everyone think?

 

Probably... anytime you weld a portion of the block or head, the resultant heat transfer (welding gets HOT!) has a tendancy to warp aluminum parts. So you should prolly get the cyl walls honed and check the deck for any warpage AFTER getting that done.

 

if you warp the deck a little does that ruin the block? or can i just have it shaved enough to get it flat again? will that mess with the compression ratio or the clearance for valves/pistons?

 

ttt

 

also, and correct me if i'm wrong, but welding at the point where the dowels are screwed into the block would, i suppose, cause a warping that'll knock the dowel off in it's contact with the sleeves, where it prolly won't make as much contact with the sleeves...

 

ttt

 

My block is not done yet. He said he needs another week. Oh well.

Sonny

 

Sonny, nice to see someone else fooling around with a D16A1/old CRX. I assume your putting it into an old CRX anyway...I also assume your building the motor for boost? Just curious.

Also, to address anyone else's concerns about the "rigged" proposition of posting, my D16A6 was posted (and built) by Endyn a year and a half ago. It's not rigged, it does not leak. You'd never know the posts were there.

-TJ

 

TJ:

Yep, the D16A1 is going into my 87 CRX Si.

I'm building it up with Endyn pistons, Eagle rods, Dustin's old JDM ZC head, Hondata Stage 4, etc...mated to a T28 turbo from a JDM Nissan S14 Silvia. My goal is to run high 12's with this car on slicks. I hope the tranny will hold up.

Sonny

 

Nice. I'm building the same thing only in NA form - 11.8:1 CR rollerwaves .020 over, Eagle rods, ZC cams...replacing the doggy stocker D16A1 in the car now.

You don't happen to need any green main bearings do you? I ordered all mine off the codes, then it turns out that 3 mains really needed yellow bearings....3 of the greens have the oil hole opened up as per Larry's instruction. They've only been in to plastigage - I'll sell 'em for less than half of new -$5 ea.

At any rate, you're ride should be a lot of fun. What ECU did Hondata do for you? I thought they didn't do OKI processor ECU's...aka obd1 +

 

Sweet. Sounds good, man.

I ordered ACL bearings for this engine and I haven't installed them yet, so I am not sure if I will need any factory bearings. If the clearances are too far off with the ACL's, you can run an OEM Honda bearing on the minor thrust side to tighten/loosen things up. I really appreciate the offer though and will let you know either way.

Hondata works on PR3/PW0 JDM 88-91 B16A ECU's. I will probably use one of those and run it in open loop only. Or, I may convert the car to OBD1 and run a P28. I have several ECU's to choose from since I still have all of my Hondata stuff from my old JRSC'd Civic Si.

Sonny

 

did you guys hear about everybody having problems with OEM honda bearings be backordered forever? just seeing if it's everybody or just certain people.

 

I heard that from Mike K (of Naples Acura, or whatever it's called now). He told me it would take him a month to get bearings - that was almost a month ago. He didn't say why.
So, I hung up and called the local Honda dealer (the main bearings I needed are both a Honda and Acura part number) and had no problem getting them. A couple plastigage sessions later, I needed a couple more bearings. Called another local Honda dealer - again, no problem. Both dealers had to order the bearings.

Hmm...