boostincoupe

Okay I'm pretty sure I'm going to go with the greddy turbo kit, but since I won't be leaving my motor stock (internals wise), I'm leaning towards the Drag, however I still like the Greddy price. But that's another topic. I would like your input on building the internals. Let me tell you ahead of time that it's a daily driver, so I'm not going too crazy. I've made up a list of modifications to go with the turbo kit. Some of them may be unnecessary, some may be incorrectly priced, I'm not too knowledgeable on internals, so opinions are welcomed. Here we go:

I went to a local shop, and they quoted me at 650-800 for:

Ported and polished head, five-angle valve job, and ported (or extrude-honed, what's the diff.?) intake manifold.

Other stuff (and prices, if able to guess):

Eagle Rods: 400 (?)
JE 8.5:1 comp. pistons: 400 (?)
Total Seal piston rings: 100 (?)
Lower compression head gasket (what brand, material?): (?)
JG throttle body (or bored out stock one): 250-300
ARP head studs: 100-150 (?)
Nuformz block Guard: 150 (?)
Walbro fuel pump (195 lph): (?)
R/C (or other brand) injectors: (?)
AEM fuel rail (or other brand?): 100-150
Fluidyne radiator: 400-450
Greddy intercooled turbo kit, installed and dyno-tuned at Elite Autosport: 3200

Anything else? For all of these, I don't have a clue of the actual, or good price, if they're the best brand, or if they're even necessary. Let me know what you guys think. Thanks. Oh and btw, the setup will be tuned by an Apexi V-AFC, and will also have a MSD 6a ignition (or other type, recommendations welcome), an ACT heavy duty street disc w/pressure plate, a clutch masters lightened flywheel, AEM cam gear for timing, and HKS hiper 2 3/8 (60mm piping) exhaust.

boostincoupe

anyone? VTC_Civic? turboex? boosted_ek? anyone with a turbo SOHC? or any turbo Honda for that matter. HELP PLEASE!!!

ekb18c

Didn't finish up reading the rest of the stuff you bought, however the first time that i noticed is that you wont need a lower compression headgasket with your JE pistons (8.5:1). That's pretty low of a compression already, so there is no need to lower it even more. Get yourself a good fuel pump and you should be all set for runnign 7psi or so. Bang for the buck you might want to stick with eagle rods and endyn pistons.

ARP Headstuds- You have be carefull with them for the 1.6 sohc. (d16y8). As far as I know ARP doesn't make it for it. The headstuds for the 1.6 are only for 92-95 single cams, even though the box will say (All D16).

All the other parts are great, however you didn't mention how many psi's you want to run and what kind of hp you want. Some stuff you may need and some stuff you may not.

b18turbocivic

I'd ditch the Total seal rings and use the ones that come with the pistons and like EKB18c said i wouldn't use a thick headgasket to lower the compression, 8.5:1 is low enough. as a matter of fact i'd recommend using 9.0:1 and i'm sure a lot of people here will tell you the same. But whatever you decide to use it should be a sick single cam ......good luck with the build up!

ion_four

Ditch the Total seal rings, those aren't good for daily driver/boost cars. Others are right that 8.5:1 comp is low enough, too.

It also seems that a block gaurd is a little passé, and that using stud supports is better.

Extrude honing a manifold is pretty expensive (maybe $600). "Porting" only matches the port size to a little smaller than the gasket and smooths it out. A five angle valve job is also not a very good idea for a daily driver, because although it offers better performance it wears more easily and after a time you'll start to slowly lose compression, much faster than a 2-angle, or so I understand. In addition, if it's a local shop; make sure they flow the head and give some solid numbers, otherwise they might be butchering it.

If you're really planning on building the bottom end I'd say that the Greddy kit will be a bit of a disappointment, since it will be the only thing limiting the amount of boost you can run at that point. I'd really suggest that you NOT get any kit and that you read up a little more and just buy seperate components. You'll get something better for less.

I also don't see why you need the fuel rail, especially with the greddy kit. The radiator doesn't seem like it's really necessary either. Also, the throttlebody probably won't be holding you up much at all till around 350-400hp, which I don't think you'd be making the the greddy kit.

Just my thoughts; what I'd do in your situation.

Smashback

The Greddy is more than the Drag when it's on a group buy...and will make a lot less power. About the most you can run on the Greddy is 12-14 pounds of boost, which with tuning you should be able to do on a stock longblock anyway (pushing it, but it's possible).

If you're buying a kit, get the DRAG, not the Greddy if you're looking for "big" power.

CovertFI

when you get done with this sohc from hell you will have torque steer from hell!! dont waste your money on this sohc. you can get a b20 for like 800 online.

this is also a whole lot of **** to be using the vafc. if you are going this far you will want a stand alone. also if you plan to build up a block you will encounter alot more charges here and there for alot of diffrent things, as i am now. i say start small and just swap out the motor.

well that is my 2 cents

boostincoupe

Sorry, I'm looking to run about 7 lbs. daily before I build the internals, and with built internals, probably looking at 10-12 psi. Elite said with proper tuning (apparently by a V-AFC) they said I could run 10-12 lbs. of boost daily and around 15 psi. at the track, maybe more.

boostincoupe

also, I probably will stop around 230-250 whp, not sure how many lbs. of boost that is.

TurboSedan

Go with 9:1 CR and use a stock Honda head gasket. Also a BG is not a great idea if you want to run the SOHC from hell, get some GE or Darton Sleeves.

The Greddy kit will be holding you back if you want a lot of HP from a lower boost level. Go with a kit that has a larger turbo. Something like Drag or Rev Hard will work. Like mentioned above, 5 angle valve job is too much, stick with a 2 or 3 angle.

They DO NOT make ARPs for the D16Y8. I called ARP directly and the guy told me they would not work. They are too long, they fit the 92-95 Civics.

Total Seal rings suck, use the ones that come with the pistons as said above.

Get a Walbro 255lph pump if you are getting an in-tank. Make sure it is the hi pressure model also. The number is GSS342.

For exhaust I would highly recommend a 3" setup. If you want the noise level to be more conservative have a muffler shop that does mandrel bending make you a 3" setup with a ES Oval muffler. If noise doesn't matter to you the Thermal 3" system is great.

For your fueling needs, the VAFC and say 440 injectors will be alright but you may want to look at something like Hondata or AEM EMS.