what is the best block gaurd to get out there? i know a lot of companies make them but what company makes the most precise block guard out there?

 

i just had a GE blockguard installed on my b18b turbo set up. my cluster says im overheating but i think its faulty, so im going to get a water temp gauge and see what it tells me. hopefully that im not overheating. also, anti-freeze bubbles over into the coolant reserve bottle so i got a new radiator...havent started her up since, so we'll see what happens (fingers crossed)

 

Yeah i would have to say golden eagle gets my vote. The block guard fit perfect.

Add .orig.jpg for bigger pic

 

Hey what do you guys mean about honing the block after resleeving? Also how much does this generally cost?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by inspecta83 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i just had a GE blockguard installed on my b18b turbo set up. my cluster says im overheating but i think its faulty, so im going to get a water temp gauge and see what it tells me. hopefully that im not overheating. also, anti-freeze bubbles over into the coolant reserve bottle so i got a new radiator...havent started her up since, so we'll see what happens (fingers crossed)</TD></TR></TABLE>

um buddy, your overheating. first its the gauge cluster thats bad, then the radiators bad, then you will say the overfill bottle, then the thermostat....you think maybe its the blockguard???

 

STOOPID USED A BLOCK GAURD IN A LS-T THAT MADE 350 TO THE WHEELS
AND RAN MID 11S (THATS A STOCK LS WITH JUST A BLOCK GAURD)

 

ive never had a problem with blockguards in my motors i think (alot not all) of the probs people have is from on installation error or not checking tolerences after..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RyanCivic2000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You're the one full of BS with 78 posts. YOU ARE WRONG. Have you ever even installed a blockguard before? Go hit your ******* beer bong again, maybe it will make you smarter. </TD></TR></TABLE>

You neglected thermal expansion then? They expand at different rates, the force has to be lloaded somewhere, or held as residual stresses.

Unfortunalet cylinder shapes are ace if subject to a axial load, ie standing on a coke can, but if you apply any sideways force it will change teh shape, regardless of the tensile strength of the material.

General rule... block guards suck

 

HONING is the process use to get a cross hatch patern in your cylinder walls when replacing piston rings for the rings seal better, usually removing small amount of the metal, with a honing tool or ball type hone, and a drill. in short If you are not rebuilding your engine or replacing piston rings it would not make any sense hone just for a blockgaurd.<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lagingtorpe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey what do you guys mean about honing the block after resleeving? Also how much does this generally cost?</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Thanks....

 

YOU ARE WELCOME

 

make sure not to tap too hard and force the blockguard in.

Back in the day, i didnt know any better and tapped mine in pretty hard. Ended up egg shaping the hell outta my sleeves. Block still sits in my garage til this day..wut a waste.

btw, this was an str blockguard. Those things need to be filed to hell to fit properly.

 

i just bought a GE block guard. all i have to do is tap it in right? i dotn have to weld it in place do i?

 

You should be able to just tap it in. I was going to weld mine in but it fit so perfect i didnt feel that it needed to be welded in.
-Alex

 

You get a good deal on it? From what I've been told is, IF it doesn't fit, file off some of the tabs until it can slide in and out, and no, welding isn't necessary.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JonnyCoupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You neglected thermal expansion then? They expand at different rates, the force has to be lloaded somewhere, or held as residual stresses.

Unfortunalet cylinder shapes are ace if subject to a axial load, ie standing on a coke can, but if you apply any sideways force it will change teh shape, regardless of the tensile strength of the material.

General rule... block guards suck</TD></TR></TABLE>

Without a blockguard there is still more side load force than axial load. The pistons are forcing side load onto the cylinder walls, which is what they are designed to hold up against.

 

So what is there to stop the block guard from sliding to the bottom on the sleeves? It makes sense that with the thermal expansion of the metals, it'd stick pretty good, but what about when the motors cold and clearances become greater?

 

i believe that there is a little lip that the top of the block gaurd rests on to keep it from sliding down, sorry thats just regurgitated though as i have no experience with them. im pretty sure thats right though.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tek_civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i believe that there is a little lip that the top of the block gaurd rests on to keep it from sliding down, sorry thats just regurgitated though as i have no experience with them. im pretty sure thats right though.</TD></TR></TABLE>

this is correct..

 

if your have overheating with a blockguard then you either have some **** *** one or something else is wrong....my buddies turbo gsr hatch with a older STR blockguard had no heating problems at all in the middle of the summer (80-90 outside)...his car was daily drive as well, in stop and go traffic.

 

I had this installed at a local shop. The guard is from AZ race & Machine. They said it went in with a little shaving and freezing. The guard will not slip down because the walls of the block its self are tappered because of the casting. The cyl. did warp when installed, but that was easily taken out when they bored, honed, and decked the block. Also, overheating from block guards is usually from deck mounting. It is sugested to mount the guard 1/4" into the block