In turbo cars the turbo itself raises underhood temps so high that they just die.

Even stock systems suffer from heat death using all the stock computer and stuff has heat related icm death. Its just a poor design. Just like how it was a bad idea that honda made the rotor mount with a set screw instead of just D cutting the rotor shaft.

Getting rid of the icm is a good idea. The only other thing I could imagine that could help is somehow remote mounting the icm and mounting a big heatsink to it.

 

Listen to these guys! Charlie Moua already posted a link to my original journey down this very path. TurboLS and the Shodan know their stuff when it comes to this setup combo. It's inexpensive and will destroy any breakup you are having due to heat/OEM ICM problems.

It's like we are saying all this all over again, but I got a used Summit Box (ebay), crane coil (also ebay), ICM delete box, and all misc wires and did it all for around 250 bucks. Summit box, and ICM delete sit in my glove compartment where it is nice and cool.

I have pushed 27psi through the motor for many breakup-less miles now! The car wanted to lean out a tad after the install, probably because It was getting such a better burn, but I tuned that out real nice. Response feels better, plug gap stays permanently around .25. Just do it, you will love it. I know I do.

 

I'll have the box and coil today, and will document my setup

 

Parts came today!



Anyone see a problem with mounting the box in the cabin behind the center console? Since I still have ABS and crap, it will be difficult to locate it in the engine bay.

 

That shouldnt be an issue

 

Ended up putting the box behind the bumper because I couldnt find a good place for it anywhere else.

I made up a wiring diagram real quick to make sure Im doing this right, and I've got a couple questions:

The input signal wire from the box goes to white wire on bypass and the red wire is the one getting signal from black/yellow in dizzy? So it goes Dizzy -> Bypass -> Box? Also, do you know what the easiest switched 12+ near that area?

 

sell what now?

no one sells a complete cop conversion like this. you're on your own when it comes to piecing together a system that works for your specific application

 

Please Wire it how my directions say. The red wire and switch 12v wire from the ignition box need to go to the black/yellow wire at distributor. This is a constant 12v while engine is cranking. If you don't wire here the car won't run. The white output signal wire from the icm delete goes to the input signal on the ignition box. Green goes to a21 not a12 and black should be grounded to the ecu ground on the thermostat housing.

 

Ok, the A12 was a typo. So the only mix up here is that the red wire and switch 12v from box dont need to go to another +12v switched. I have it go to black / yellow per instructions.

My ignition box also has another wire (blue) that is used for cylinder selection (v8, v6, i4 etc) and they say to connect to switched +12. Not sure where I should go with this one

 

That can go to the same black/yellow wire. I've never seen a box want a wire powered to select which amount of cylinders through.

 

I'm thinking of using this on my big nitrous setup.. vs a stock ign system. I don't see me maxing it out(stock setup) But I feel a better flame control would help me on the bigger shots I plan to run.

 

Heres a revised schematic:

 

That looks good to me

Derek do it ! Stock **** sucks

 

I'm working on it. I haven't reach the limits yet.. but you know me, i'ma press the **** outta them! LOL

I think it'll help with allow me to open the gap more with more nitrous.

Are the parts and places listed on this site, I think i'ma start ordering next weekend.

 

You should be able to open the gaps up quite a bit. Im running .0028 gaps on my setup right now around 800whp.

sum-850610 Ignition Box
730-0092 Race coil
730-0192 Standard Coil
82922 MSD cap
8092 MSD rotor
Send It Racing ICM Delete

 

I'm gonna start at .030

 

I had 32 up to like 650hp

 

Thanks for the bypass Turbo!

Ordering the coil and cap/rotor this weekend. Slowly but surely I'll get everything together haha,budget!

 

I might do this on my f22 turbo build when I get around to it. my aem v1 box won't do cop without a lot of work and my fairly low power goals don't require it anyways

 

Cars running. No issues. Just need to fab up a plate to mount the coil

 

Nice lightning ! What gaps? What boost/HP level

 

I still have the 0.018 gapped plugs from the stock ignition in there. I just wanted to see it fire up.

I will try 0.032, high boost in 4th is 32lbs = 602

 

32 lbs will probably be more like 28-27 but try 32 first

 

I don't understand why you would recommend playing with the spark plug gaps. The truth is once the mixture is ignited there is no need to have more fire power. More fire power does not lead to higher power unless the engine has misfire problems which can be normally fixed by going to about a 0.020'' gap.

Smaller gaps also promotes longer spark duration when using induction coil. It is not like we need the fire power of top fuel nitromethane engine. The Honda stock ignition system can handle lots of power by reducing the plug gap to a more appropriate 0.020''.

 

Wait, So you're saying a motor wont benefit from a larger gap?...


*Mind = Blown*.

Typically, you want to run the LARGEST gap possible, without blowing spark.. I felt like this needed to be repeated. I've pushed the limits on pump gas and stock IGN systems on a lot of turbo cars, There are many variables, but typically, you want a larger gap.