Thanks for those parts numbers. Now I cam varify the parts I was looking at are the right ones.

 

Awesome


What is the difference between the 82922 and 82923 cap?

Can I use either?

82922 is almost twice the price

 

yes you can use that one but i advise against it. Those caps have come apart on several people i know. I only run the pro cap. The first one i had i only recently changed it was 6 years old and had a bunch of miles on it. they hold up well

 

You guys see anything wrong with getting the box that comes with the LX92 (The HI-6S)

 

The LX-92 has more spark energy than the ps92n but the same as the ps92 race coil. Both are the same price too. The hi-6 mallory according to Mac is the same box in different clothing.

 

I think I'll grab it because it will match the coil and its a bit a smaller then the summit box.

How do you have yours mounted?

 

It's just on some metal Brackets and mounted to the shock tower.

 

A little OT since guys here are talking about price, but I did went through a few key ignition setups over the years, and still found that "OEM is best". The farthest I'll go is OEM + digital box.

OEM, meaning it is NOT an aftermarket distributor from Ebay, or no-name distributor internals. In fact, for aftermarket distributors at moderate power levels, I only use the distributors that Xenocron sells.

I am running an OEM ITR distributor housing, with all ITR internals (coil, rotor, cap, ignitor) and NGK wires. The lifespan of the OEM parts are good for about 2 years / 20k miles of daily abuse and weekend street/strip at 550-650 WHP and 380 WTQ. You can extend the usage if you gap the plugs lower and more frequent plug changes. But I still drive the car a lot per year, so gas mileage ends up making the price difference for new and fresh distributor internals rather than seeing my mileage turn to **** or have the car misfire before I change out the parts. The housing itself is almost good for a lifetime.

The other setup I had over the years was AEM EPM and S2000 coilpacks. The particular issue I am having, is that the coil packs stick up past the valve cover height, so it is the highest point of the engine bay.

The problems I had was engine bay heat, with the heat being trapped at the highest part of the hood and damaging the coils. I went through 3 sets of coils over one summer season, and gradually as weather got cooler, it stopped failing. I have a front facing turbo setup, which means I had a custom manifold heatshield, the manifold does sit low in the engine bay too, with wrapped runners, and the turbo is actually in the bumper. I still have heat issues if you intend to drive the car hard or circuit it because heat naturally rises. I can only see others with topmount manifolds or ramhorns, have even more problems with heat than I did. So I guess you will want a big vented hood, but in my case, I didn't want to cut a hole so I just gave up on the coil pack setup. Plus the AEM EPM couldn't sync itself when it was below -10 deg C, and I do drive the car in the winter.

 

I can't agree with you on oem stuff. Nothing but failures with oem Ignitor and weak *** coil. I've been running my setup now for over 6 years and I haven't had to replace anything but the rotor and cap which went for over 5 years and 40k miles without frequent plug changes.

 

I guess different driving applications.. I occasionally circuit my car, but of course also do everything else too. The OEM stuff is the most predictable and consistent IMO.

I actually had all the setups that were posted on this thread already. I had a Mallory box, and then also tried the Summit, and with various coils, etc.. I also had MSD DIS 4's (died in a few months), AEM CDI's (smoked up in a few weeks), M&W Pro's as well. M&W worked well, until I decided to make a long road trip. The M&W did not like sustained high RPM highway cruise for over 3 hours in a hot summer day. The box started to smell funny, and it just got me worried. The Mallory Digital box died after I did a 30-40 second show-off burnout and hitting the soft cut rev limiter the whole way, but it did last me 2 years trouble free although I wasn't driving the car as often during those years. The Summit box started to miss and shut the car off when I was running the car hard in top of 5th gear and keeping it in fifth for about 2-3 km of topspeed driving and an hour into the trip. It did it again when I was lapping the car hard for a few minutes. It was on a 30 deg hot summer day.

Whenever the ignition system does quirky things, it always gives me a momentary heart attack thinking that my motor let go or something. Just couldn't deal with it when doing the high speed stuff. That's when I quickly found myself reverting back to OEM ignition components.

Anyway, the part has to be 100% OEM. The dealership sometimes sell lower-end OEM parts that are noticeably cheaper prices, and may not be getting true OEM spec parts.
For the ignitor, is about $200... If there is an OEM unit for $140-150 list, it could be a non-Hitachi unit which will be similar to all the other aftermarket stuff. I had those before, directly from Honda too. Now I am not 100% certain why these lower end parts are available from Honda or Acura, but I realized this from experience over the years.

Same thing with the distributor assembly, if there is one for $400-450 list ,complete internals, it may not be the true OEM spec distributor. I had a close friend who circuits his car (Boersma Racing), but the original distributor was leaking oil from the shaft. He went to Honda and bought an OEM unit, but the price was very decent at $400 complete (thinking maybe it was sold at wholesale price). The unit came and looked slightly different, and it ran poorly at 350WHP and 8000RPM at 0.025" gap. In comparison, his leaky old stock distributor sang nicely through 400WHP and 9200RPM for 2 years of solid time attack and road racing.

I ended up sourcing my housings on complete and untouched JDM motors, and begun stock piling them since 3-4 years ago...lol

I'm not saying that other setups here listed don't work, but I figured I'd share my experiences

 

Sounds like heat is the enemy here regardless of the setup

 

Just a random and possibly stupid question here,

but what is the more important part between the two,

the coil or the ignitor? Do both share the same resposibilities/workload?

 

One can not accomplish anything without the other in a distributor ignition system. Igniter tells the coil when to fire and the coil sends electricity to the spark plug. Going CDI changes things, but that is the basics. You need to be a little more specific with your question.

 

Best I have had for myself and customers was OEM and M&W/crane coil. All the other stuff was pretty much a headache or lived a short life. For me, if something works well and is consistent then i'll stand by it regardless of brand etc. But in the case of 99% of street cars I have done oem has made people the happiest. Not advanced auto beck arnley or any of that crap either. I havent had one MSD distributor last even a full dyno session.

 

The msd dizzys are total junk. Amazes me they still can't get them right. They know the weak point so why not fix them? If not upgrading ignition and using stock stuff I will agree that it should ALL be oem Honda nothing aftermarket in the way of a distributor or any of it's components.

 

I've had luck with an Accel internal coil in my otherwise OEM dizzy

 

That too. As stated previously. Heat is defiantly one of the biggest issues that and stock stuff just doent have the spark energy a good reliable ignition system can produce.

 

With that said,

has anyone used the senditracing/summit combo on a daily driver? Keeping in mind I am also in Florida? lol

 

I daily drove mine for 5 years 40k miles never a single issue. Still running same setup in my drag car.

 

for your setup and power level I would keep it simple

an accel OEM replacement coil (much more power)
a new cap and rotor
a good set of plug wires. NGK blues or MSD big reds
NGK iridium plugs


that's all you need for a stout 300hp ignition system.

 

Thats why I kind of want to try and wire the summit box and ignitor bypass inside the car. Any issues with mounting it next to the ecu?
Also planning on getting a usb extension cable so I can have a usb port on my dash for s300 lol

 

I'm gonna try out the msd cap and external Crane coil and see how that works out. Already using NGK blues and BKR7Es, maybe i'll get a new set and tighten the gap?

EDIT

Can i use the crane coil without the ignition bypass and summit box?

 

Mine was mounted inside the car at the passenger side left foot well area, along with a metal bracket that bolts onto the chassis (to help ground out any interference)... I would still place it as far away from the ECU as possible.

 

Yep. Mine's like that too for the NA car. On the turbo car its in the forward area away from the distributor on a custom mount.

 

You should mount the Summit box far enough away from the ecu and ground it like Tony is stating. The ignitor bypass doesnt matter. I have mine right next to the ecu and its been in the same place for over 6 years no issue with noise or failures. I have my summit box under the hood and thats been there for over 6 years without an issues either.