Hey..

Race coil and standard coil are the same thing, do you really need both or are you just listing it for whoever?..

What are you running?

 

No you don't. All you need is just enough spark to light up the mixture. There is nothing wrong in closing the gap to prevent misfire instead of having to buy ignition upgraded components to run a USELESS bigger gap.

 

There is a point in which the spark is not enough ignite the mixture...in a smaller gap. I close thr gap all the time on plugs, only when you have to.

 

Bigger gap = Bigger flame front = more area for fuel/air mixture to be ignited = more complete combustion.

 

Derek you can pick your poison. you can also run the crane LX-92 coil which has mroe spark energy than the ps92 coils.

 

I went to summit and it said the 0192 is the race coil? Am I reading this right or jus tired? Gonna order the whole set up with in the next week might get my lil ls to break 600 this year.

 

How much do all the parts cost combined?

 

Roughly 350. I think it's 348 and some
Change if I'm not mistaken.

 

I'm asking to be spoon fed, I know. But its obvious you've done your homework over all of this, and I have not.

What would be the basic, you would suggest for me??

I've Normally only delt with Stock ign or COP systems.

James holy, craig and a few others are right on the virg of having a COP system out for Neptune , I'll be testing it .. but in the mean time, its very possible I might go this route. It was something I was tossing in the air, just something for more spark

Right now, with the nitrous only on a 100 shot, the car seems to be find @ .030, I could probably go to .035 and test, but I'm honestly not wanting to risk a **** up at this point, the motors doing really well and loving the nitrous, I'd hate to try something and crack a ringland LOL.. I'm going back to the track Friday, i'll push the stock system until it starts to give me issues, then I guess i'll upgrade.

 

The 68 dollar street version ps92 will be just fine. It's what I have in my car. Few of my buddies run the race version with same results.

 

So, really I just need the ps92, or do I need the whole box with the coil.

I'm assuming I'd setup it up like a blaster coil per say from msd on a stock dizzy setup.

 

From my experience adding a big aftermarket coil to an otherwise stock ignition system doesnt help. I actually had to close the gaps further when i did that. You will need the ignition box if you run the ICM delete box and anythign other than an accel replacement coil i wouldnt do without a box. You can also run the box with the stock ignitor if you want but that will end up being the failure point in the future.

 

I got this one:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cr...0192/overview/

The other one has same exact specs just has a nicer cover

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cr...0092/overview/

 

This is a myth. Once the mixture has been ignited, be it 0.010 or 0.100'' gap, you will not get more complete combustion (power) with the larger gap.

 

Just need to get some rubber isolators from work to mount the box on. The bumper beam vibrates a bit

 

That's funny because when I installed my better ignition system my car leaned out from .5-1.0 just from stronger ignition no other changes made and it picked up power which I believe would mean better more complete combustion.

 

You should hang out on domestic car forums more:

The size of the spark plug gap has three effects to be considered.

The larger the gap, the more voltage is required to jump the gap and to ionize the air space. If sufficient reserve voltage is available, a larger gap can be used. If not, the gap size must be reduced.

The larger the gap, for a given reserve voltage, the shorter the spark duration. If the gap is reduced we can increase the length of the spark duration, but at some point, it no longer makes any difference.

The larger the gap, the more advanced the equivalent ignition angle. The size of the initial flame kernal is determined by the size of the spark plug gap. If the gap is increased in size, the flame kernal is larger, giving the same effect as if it had been ignitied earlier. In most cases, the range of gap sizes available will have no more than a 3-4 degree effect on equivalent ignition timing. If slightly advanced timing can improve engine performance, then a larger gap is beneficial. If there is already too much ignition timing (or an excessively fast burn rate) then a larger gap will be non-beneficial and perhaps even destructive.

Now we have some trade-offs to consider. Which is more important to the performance of a given engine: longer spark duration or advanced ignition timing?

If spark duration is adequate (a spark lasting until TDC) and ignition advance timing is correct at each throttle and engine speed, then it becomes quite difficult to extract more power by use of spark plug gap. Now things like electrode tip heat range and tip temperature, squish velocity prior to TDC, chamber temperature and pressure emerge as dominant variables.

 

Wow. That would be the complete opposite. You just proved my point.

If you had incomplete combustion and or misfire, the indicated lambda or AFR would show LEAN. Incomplete combustion always reads leaner on the WB because of excess O2.

 

OneBadTurboCRV, couldn't have said it any better. a lot of the old school domestic guys know some pretty good tricks and tips. definitely useful info regardless of vehicle platform

 

Stock ignition in my car I was going through ignitors and coils. Switched out to a better setup, picked up power and havent had a single failure in 6 years. Reguardless of your unexplained educated theory real world facts are just that stock junk failed over and over aftermarket upgraded better spark output never failed once. end of story.

Ok bud you stick to your stock inadequite ignition (if that works for you) and we will choose to upgrade ( when we need to and what we feel works for us). Thanks have a good night.

 

If it went leaner after ignition upgrade, the engine is wanting more fuel to burn off the O2 it wasnt burning before. There could be 12:1 air/fuel exiting the exhaust before and now its burning better and needs more fuel to get the air that wasnt getting ignited before. Its not a cloud of fuel and air in the combustion chamber that is perfectly distributed.

 

in simple terms more spark gap equals means the larger the spark and a larger spark area that is exposed to the stratified air/fuel charge in the cylinder, hence why the flame kernel is larger in motors with a higher plug gap

a leaner o2 reading after an ignition upgrade means the combustion process burned more fuel for a given injection amount, if fuel were left over there should be a richer o2 reading.

 

Again, this is completely wrong. O2 does not burn. If you go leaner after ignition upgrade, then it simply means you have misfire (incomplete combustion). Complete combustion shows richer reading, not leaner. Fuel left over always show leaner on the WB.

 

O2 does not burn? What burns in fire then?

You have obviously never tuned a car before.

 

You should take the time to properly educate yourself. I have been tuning for a very long time, even before WB were available.