^----shameless picture post to show off baller intake manifold and throttle body! lol

 

Also a 30 hour drive from CT to Texas

 

LOL thats the best pic i had with the summit box in it to show location and i was to lazy to go take one. Its only a 72mm throttlebody. not like its a skunk2 alpha 90mm baller. Ive had my STR throttlebody for 10-11 years


I forgot about that Josh. Yeah the car drove straight for 30 hours from Connecticut to South Texas no issues too after it was 5 years old on the ignition setup

 

How hard is it to wire one of these systems up?

 

Interested too
Running digital 6plus box, HVCII coil, MSD cap and rotor

 

I'm about to order all the stuff. I got the ignitor bypass in the mail the other day, looks nicely made.

 

Thanks lightning. There very easy to wire up. Just be sure to follow my instructions because I everyone that doesn't wire it to my directions has issues with no start.

 

In your case, switching up isn't necessary. This is similar to what you're doing with different brand components. the concept is the same.

 

Do a DIY thread on this, and help me out

 

Quick questions:

Green wire to A21. This is replacing the input from the originally ICM so I can just cut that wire from the ecu and connect to bypass

Red wire to black/yellow on dizzy: So 3 wires coming together here, Red from module, black/yellow from dizzy, and switched 12v from ign. box? (HI-6 in my case).

Thanks, looks pretty straightforward.

 

Also looking at the instructions for the box, it looks like you dont have to bypass the OEM ignitor?

 

Yes please do a write up for the install. I will be ordering these parts within the week as well

I also replaced my plugs today just because. Surprisingly they were not bkr7e's but rather a 7 heat range vpower

What do you guys think of the wear?

 

They are one and the same. Just different stock numbers. The v-power are pre-gapped, the other BkR7Es are not. but they are both the same heat range.

wear looks a little rich but not too bad.

 

Ok, summit box is not the same than MSD digital6?
What is the necessary of the sendit racing box?

 

They are not the same box, but serve the same purpose. Pm Turbo-LS about the bypass.

 

Went 9.74@156.7mph today on the ignition setup today.

 

congrats!
you need to update that signature homie

 

about time you broke into the 9s... looks like those new wheels and tires helped a lot, did you ever get the corner weighting done?

I still maintain that for the bulk of turbo Honda setups (sub 500hp) the following combo is all that's needed

accel OEM replacement coil
good set of wires
iridium plugs

the only reason I'm going coil on plug is that the Megasquirt3 Pro can use just the stock crank trigger (my motor/car is OBD2) and run any 3 wire "dumb" coil... like the LS1 coils, which I'll use an upgraded ls1 3 wire coil.

I was going to use my AEM EMS and go cop but you need too much extra bullshit but I've decided the civic is getting an MS3Pro box and I'm tossing my AEM 30-1000 box on my daily driver 1990 F22A1 powered CB7 accord. not sure about upgrading the OEM ignition because I think the coil and such is different on the f series unit as well as it being OBD1

the stock ls1 coils should have enough spark energy for my setup but I'd rather have too much than too little and having to swap things more than once annoys me. the MS3 Pro can run 8 sequential coils straight from the ecu or 12 as wasted spark.. this means no external ignition boxes or special bypasses, no elaborate cam trigger needed either... I can just remove the OEM dizzy and put a cam seal in its place.

(if I remember correctly as far as the trigger goes, I know if I run a 36-1 trigger wheel on the crank then I don't need a cam signal.

 

That's a nice MPH as well... I like high traps

 

So I'm reading the ignitor bypass basically just takes the load off of the ignitor and the it becomes a switch for the box. Do people commonly have failures otherwise with aftermarket ignitions with the stock ICM?

 

No it replaces the ignitor. The summit box takes over the role of the oem ignitor. The bypass box is so the ecu thinks the factory ignitor is still in place so everything stays happy. Iirc its also so it cam filter the ecu trigger signal into one the summit box can properly interpret.
I guess you are kinda right in that it becomes a sort of switch.

Even with an aftermarket ignition box the icm is still prone to the same failures as without the ignition box. That being heat murders them over and over again
Is that right turbo-ls?

 

You hit the nail on the head. The icm is completely removed from the system and the bypass module is an interface between the ecu and ignition box so everything works properly. Sorry I'm half asleep and your description is right on.

 

Sorry, What I meant to say was without the bypass the ignition box takes the load off the ignitor, or you take it out completely in this case.

I've had one fail on my DD, so it sounds like a good idea.

 

It takes some of the load off of the Ignitor but it's still getting the detrimental heat in the dizzy.

 

The job of the igniter (ICM or ignition control module) is to charge the coil commanded by the ECU.

Most people get the igniter HEAT damaged by using too much dwell time. This can often be adjusted in the ECU's calibration.