Beginning of A Failure Part 1
i kept reading this, and theres a lot of HG and compression stuff in here...
some of you might think im a moron for saying this, but i learned this from my dad. he had a stroked out 383 in a 18 foot boat when i was 14 or 15 years old. built to a tee, we had it dynoed ad 515hp@6200 480qt@4700 well it had keith black high compression pistons in it, we were out on the puget sound racing this 30+' racer. ended up burning a hole in one of the forged pistons. well after he put it back together he didnt want that 12.8:1 compression ratio, he got this spacer things that screws into the head then the spark plug screws into them, lowered it a whole ratio.
doing something similar to a hondas low liter motor would make a huge difference... even putting a thicker washer on the plug would make a difference
some of you might think im a moron for saying this, but i learned this from my dad. he had a stroked out 383 in a 18 foot boat when i was 14 or 15 years old. built to a tee, we had it dynoed ad 515hp@6200 480qt@4700 well it had keith black high compression pistons in it, we were out on the puget sound racing this 30+' racer. ended up burning a hole in one of the forged pistons. well after he put it back together he didnt want that 12.8:1 compression ratio, he got this spacer things that screws into the head then the spark plug screws into them, lowered it a whole ratio.
doing something similar to a hondas low liter motor would make a huge difference... even putting a thicker washer on the plug would make a difference
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From: springfield, missouri, usa
i kept reading this, and theres a lot of HG and compression stuff in here...
some of you might think im a moron for saying this, but i learned this from my dad. he had a stroked out 383 in a 18 foot boat when i was 14 or 15 years old. built to a tee, we had it dynoed ad 515hp@6200 480qt@4700 well it had keith black high compression pistons in it, we were out on the puget sound racing this 30+' racer. ended up burning a hole in one of the forged pistons. well after he put it back together he didnt want that 12.8:1 compression ratio, he got this spacer things that screws into the head then the spark plug screws into them, lowered it a whole ratio.
doing something similar to a hondas low liter motor would make a huge difference... even putting a thicker washer on the plug would make a difference
some of you might think im a moron for saying this, but i learned this from my dad. he had a stroked out 383 in a 18 foot boat when i was 14 or 15 years old. built to a tee, we had it dynoed ad 515hp@6200 480qt@4700 well it had keith black high compression pistons in it, we were out on the puget sound racing this 30+' racer. ended up burning a hole in one of the forged pistons. well after he put it back together he didnt want that 12.8:1 compression ratio, he got this spacer things that screws into the head then the spark plug screws into them, lowered it a whole ratio.
doing something similar to a hondas low liter motor would make a huge difference... even putting a thicker washer on the plug would make a difference
rip off
on another note.
yesterday arrived my battery, 5"x3" deep. neeed to make a bracket.
and also the turbo blanket.
still awaiting the clutch.. then for some pictures of the install at work
on another note.
yesterday arrived my battery, 5"x3" deep. neeed to make a bracket.
and also the turbo blanket.
still awaiting the clutch.. then for some pictures of the install at work
neither did i.
he is great for customer service ,fast reply to emails and makes great products.
www.pfabrications.com
he is great for customer service ,fast reply to emails and makes great products.
www.pfabrications.com
neither did i.
he is great for customer service ,fast reply to emails and makes great products.
www.pfabrications.com
he is great for customer service ,fast reply to emails and makes great products.
www.pfabrications.com
Thx man...ive been trying real hard to get recognized and start making stuff for the honda guys but the market is so hard. I wanna see this car done!
Well I just did just that today. Battery is located hanging on the frame rail and all cable ends on and connected.
Also put on some brackets to hold down my boost signal lines to the boost controller.
Will post some pics tomorrow.
Clutch needs to hurry up and come. Ugh. And still looking for a good deal on tires.
Anyone have a bost gauge u wanna sell?
Also put on some brackets to hold down my boost signal lines to the boost controller.
Will post some pics tomorrow.
Clutch needs to hurry up and come. Ugh. And still looking for a good deal on tires.
Anyone have a bost gauge u wanna sell?
just an update..
yesterday i recived my act clutch, 6 puck sprung.
ordering some tires this weekend and puttin some tags on the bitch driving this **** to work to install, and im sure there will be plenty of pictures.
the battery mount we made worked great and i am working on a tie down as well. im sure the battery wont go anywhere but just as a precaution. i havent posted any pictures of the battery tray but i soon will. i ended up hanging it from the front crossmember.
one other thing i need to do is fab up some exhaust to weld onto the vband 02 bung flange being that the sensor is touching ambient air causing the sensor to think its a lean condition when really its not, and the plugs say the same haha.
and yes, these pics are BEFORE engine detailed this past weekend haha.


update:
03/27/09
ehh the battery will be fine here. im not sure why i didnt lol. i kinda like the way it looks right there believe it or not.
i ordered a Fast-Turbo vacuum manifold, i realized that i am going to be using alot of sources and would have to run t fittings and run a tb adapter for the aem map sensor. so the boost gauge, bov valve, and map sensor will run off the vacuum block using the same 1/8" npt pneumatic fittings.
i purchased aem map sensor from a member here and should be receiving it shortly.
ehh the battery will be fine here. im not sure why i didnt lol. i kinda like the way it looks right there believe it or not.
i ordered a Fast-Turbo vacuum manifold, i realized that i am going to be using alot of sources and would have to run t fittings and run a tb adapter for the aem map sensor. so the boost gauge, bov valve, and map sensor will run off the vacuum block using the same 1/8" npt pneumatic fittings.
i purchased aem map sensor from a member here and should be receiving it shortly.
the clutch sits in my toolbox drawer, waiting to be installed.
been looking around at tires, im not sure what im going to pick right now. being that i have rims planned in the future im not going to get a really aggressive tire in the front (the tires that i do need).
things are starting to look better at work so maybe ill get this thing dyno'd very shortly.
i wouldnt have a problem taking my car to work now and installing the clutch but work is 60 miles away from me. so yeahh, no tags. haha
w00t.
the clutch sits in my toolbox drawer, waiting to be installed.
been looking around at tires, im not sure what im going to pick right now. being that i have rims planned in the future im not going to get a really aggressive tire in the front (the tires that i do need).
things are starting to look better at work so maybe ill get this thing dyno'd very shortly.
i wouldnt have a problem taking my car to work now and installing the clutch but work is 60 miles away from me. so yeahh, no tags. haha
w00t.
yesterday i recived my act clutch, 6 puck sprung.
ordering some tires this weekend and puttin some tags on the bitch driving this **** to work to install, and im sure there will be plenty of pictures.
the battery mount we made worked great and i am working on a tie down as well. im sure the battery wont go anywhere but just as a precaution. i havent posted any pictures of the battery tray but i soon will. i ended up hanging it from the front crossmember.
one other thing i need to do is fab up some exhaust to weld onto the vband 02 bung flange being that the sensor is touching ambient air causing the sensor to think its a lean condition when really its not, and the plugs say the same haha.
and yes, these pics are BEFORE engine detailed this past weekend haha.


update:
03/27/09
ehh the battery will be fine here. im not sure why i didnt lol. i kinda like the way it looks right there believe it or not.
i ordered a Fast-Turbo vacuum manifold, i realized that i am going to be using alot of sources and would have to run t fittings and run a tb adapter for the aem map sensor. so the boost gauge, bov valve, and map sensor will run off the vacuum block using the same 1/8" npt pneumatic fittings.
i purchased aem map sensor from a member here and should be receiving it shortly.
ehh the battery will be fine here. im not sure why i didnt lol. i kinda like the way it looks right there believe it or not.
i ordered a Fast-Turbo vacuum manifold, i realized that i am going to be using alot of sources and would have to run t fittings and run a tb adapter for the aem map sensor. so the boost gauge, bov valve, and map sensor will run off the vacuum block using the same 1/8" npt pneumatic fittings.
i purchased aem map sensor from a member here and should be receiving it shortly.
the clutch sits in my toolbox drawer, waiting to be installed.
been looking around at tires, im not sure what im going to pick right now. being that i have rims planned in the future im not going to get a really aggressive tire in the front (the tires that i do need).
things are starting to look better at work so maybe ill get this thing dyno'd very shortly.
i wouldnt have a problem taking my car to work now and installing the clutch but work is 60 miles away from me. so yeahh, no tags. haha
w00t.
the clutch sits in my toolbox drawer, waiting to be installed.
been looking around at tires, im not sure what im going to pick right now. being that i have rims planned in the future im not going to get a really aggressive tire in the front (the tires that i do need).
things are starting to look better at work so maybe ill get this thing dyno'd very shortly.
i wouldnt have a problem taking my car to work now and installing the clutch but work is 60 miles away from me. so yeahh, no tags. haha
w00t.
yeah everything is up and running again.
I am using heat treated 3/6-16 studs and aircraft nuts with lock washers. i havent had any problems as of yet. i have put over 200 miles on the car and the nuts are still tight. I did have to trim the upper left stud about 1/4" so the stud would clear the v band flange.
The manifold to head nuts are still working, i suggest using the integra self locking nuts if you are not running arp studs.
The wideband also reads correctly now. Since the pfab downpipe does not have an o2 bung, i ended up using a piece of 180* u bend and cutting it in a few places to form the angle i needed off the downpipe and welded a bung into it.
The wideband was so close to the end of the exhaust on the previous setup that it was reading leaner then it should. i was using a 3" v band flange with an integrated o2 port. now the problem has been resolved.
Two nights ago i took the car out for a long drive , enabled aem auto mapping (o2 feedback) and setup the parameters for how much fuel i would allow the ecu to take out. The aem s2k basemap runs very rich.
I have no a rock solid 14.7 af at idle and into some throttle ranges. I still have to set up throttle tip in as it tends to run slightly lean on tip in. everything else is from 13.5 to 12.00 into boost.
The fast-turbo vacuum manifold is finally getting shipped out on monday so ill be able to run the boost gauge bov and map sensor off that. I am running the stock map for now. I did enter some boost last night , somewhere under 10lbs and the car feels great, just some teasers for myself. The tial q bov defiantely have a distinct sound from the others.
Tuesday is clutch install and hopefully this coming week a dyno tune at innovative motorworks.
I have been driving the car everyday, it finally feels good to be back in that thing, especially since its coming up on one year of the car being down.
I am using heat treated 3/6-16 studs and aircraft nuts with lock washers. i havent had any problems as of yet. i have put over 200 miles on the car and the nuts are still tight. I did have to trim the upper left stud about 1/4" so the stud would clear the v band flange.
The manifold to head nuts are still working, i suggest using the integra self locking nuts if you are not running arp studs.
The wideband also reads correctly now. Since the pfab downpipe does not have an o2 bung, i ended up using a piece of 180* u bend and cutting it in a few places to form the angle i needed off the downpipe and welded a bung into it.
The wideband was so close to the end of the exhaust on the previous setup that it was reading leaner then it should. i was using a 3" v band flange with an integrated o2 port. now the problem has been resolved.
Two nights ago i took the car out for a long drive , enabled aem auto mapping (o2 feedback) and setup the parameters for how much fuel i would allow the ecu to take out. The aem s2k basemap runs very rich.
I have no a rock solid 14.7 af at idle and into some throttle ranges. I still have to set up throttle tip in as it tends to run slightly lean on tip in. everything else is from 13.5 to 12.00 into boost.
The fast-turbo vacuum manifold is finally getting shipped out on monday so ill be able to run the boost gauge bov and map sensor off that. I am running the stock map for now. I did enter some boost last night , somewhere under 10lbs and the car feels great, just some teasers for myself. The tial q bov defiantely have a distinct sound from the others.
Tuesday is clutch install and hopefully this coming week a dyno tune at innovative motorworks.
I have been driving the car everyday, it finally feels good to be back in that thing, especially since its coming up on one year of the car being down.






