I just pulled my head off my b16a2 to find that my ring lands were f'd on one of my pistons. I bought some Arais 9.1 pistons and Eagle H-beam Rods. I really just want the thing to run again and don't want to tear the thing down anymore. Is it completly necassary to pull the crank and flywheel and have it all balanced or is the weight of the new equip close enough and make no difference. I am only going to run 230-250hp. Let me know if you have either done it or not and how it turned out. Thanks in advance

 

bump it

 

Why not get a scale and see how close the weights of the rods are in comparison to each other? You can do the same with the bearings if you have an accurate enough scale and, if you feel confident, you can take a grinder to the rods to shave off any disparities before you put everything together.

That's my $.02 about it .

 

dont be cheap or lazy if your building it. Your going to have to drop the crank and flyweeh and stuff to change the rods any way. just get it balanced and hone the cylinders. also deck the block n head to be safe.

 

why will i have to pull the crank and flywheel to put in the new rods and pistons?

 

how else you gonna seperate the rods? you could just unbolt them from the crank n pull the bottom half out n drop the piston n rest of rod out the top of the block but thats retarded. Why are you being lazy about this project? dont try to cut corners like that....something will go wrong and thats gonna be a very expensive "opps"

 

Your crank probably doesn't have to be balanced - and the eagles are probably close enough. Although if you're looking to rev to the moon, I'd balance. The only problem I see with your idea is that, personally, I'd want to have my cylinders overbored a tad (although your new slugs might not allow that) which would require you to pull the block.

What you might want to do is look for a shortblock and build that up.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dennis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your crank probably doesn't have to be balanced - and the eagles are probably close enough. Although if you're looking to rev to the moon, I'd balance. The only problem I see with your idea is that, personally, I'd want to have my cylinders overbored a tad (although your new slugs might not allow that) which would require you to pull the block.

What you might want to do is look for a shortblock and build that up.</TD></TR></TABLE>

your right but why not take the extra step? a shop in miami was gonna charge me $80 to balance my pistons, rods, crank, flywheel, and crank pully....he wanted to do everything that spun to be safe. While its out i woudln't bore the block but i sure as hell would get it honed!

 

Quality aftermarket pistons and rods should already come pre-balanced. Thats something you can ask the manufacturer.

If your not going to rev it past stock redline then Id say its fine as is.

 

Id pay $80 for the extra assurance

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Muckman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Quality aftermarket pistons and rods should already come pre-balanced. Thats something you can ask the manufacturer.

If your not going to rev it past stock redline then Id say its fine as is.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree with Muckman. I didn't have my bottom end balanced.

 

Unless you weigh your factory components and the weights of the aftermarket parts are within 1 gram of the original parts, your crank will not be balanced. Just pull the crank and get it balanced. Longevity will definately suffer if you don't.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pngfolife &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Unless you weigh your factory components and the weights of the aftermarket parts are within 1 gram of the original parts, your crank will not be balanced. Just pull the crank and get it balanced. Longevity will definately suffer if you don't.</TD></TR></TABLE>

^ im with him

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pngfolife &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Unless you weigh your factory components and the weights of the aftermarket parts are within 1 gram of the original parts, your crank will not be balanced. Just pull the crank and get it balanced. Longevity will definately suffer if you don't.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've been running the bottom end hard for over a year and no problems.

 

you dont have to drop your crank, i took my rods and pistons out without dropping the crank, it will be easier but not necessary/

i see alot of theories in this thread without much fact to back it up, i personally wouldnt listen to anything anyone is saying in this thread, except for ryancivic2000

 

unfortunately, that's how many people on Htech operate - all on what they've seen/read/heard.

I gave information on exactly how I built my motor and what I would do if I was in his situation.

 

cool thanks for all the help guys.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Muckman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Quality aftermarket pistons and rods should already come pre-balanced. Thats something you can ask the manufacturer.

If your not going to rev it past stock redline then Id say its fine as is.</TD></TR></TABLE>

How can an aftermarket vendor make rods or pistons that weight exactly the same amount as the parts in one's motor if factory pistons vary in weight. The whole reason that cranks are balanced from the factory is to account for the variation in component weights.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RyanCivic2000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I've been running the bottom end hard for over a year and no problems.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You are either very lucky my friend, or you purchased parts that in total weight very close to what your stock parts were.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pngfolife &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

How can an aftermarket vendor make rods or pistons that weight exactly the same amount as the parts in one's motor if factory pistons vary in weight. The whole reason that cranks are balanced from the factory is to account for the variation in component weights.

You are either very lucky my friend, or you purchased parts that in total weight very close to what your stock parts were.</TD></TR></TABLE>

As long as all 4 rods and all 4 pistons are the same it shouldn't throw anything out of balance. I can assure you that my Eagle rods and SRP pistons aren't very close to stock in weight.

I don't believe in luck.

 

Your crank is either in balance or is not in balance. Changing the weight of your pistons or rods will make no difference to an inline 4 cylinder engine's balance. This assumes that your aftermarket pistons and rods are close to the same weight. I'm sure they match closer in weight than the oem's do. You are fine. If you wanter to be better than fine, have your crank spun balanced by itself.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicflnum1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Id pay $80 for the extra assurance</TD></TR></TABLE>

i second that any day you pay for insurance on your car, why not give your motor some insurance too? thats how i look at it

 

i'm not going to balance my crank in my built block. I am going to make sure the rods and pistons are all about the same and throw it together. The fellow that does my machineing said pretty much exactly what earl said. He also said that hondas specificly tend to have better balanced cranks from the factory anyway.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TURBO4drTypeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i second that any day you pay for insurance on your car, why not give your motor some insurance too? thats how i look at it </TD></TR></TABLE>


local macine shop wants 200$ for balancing, I will be fine with out.

 

I bought Manley rods and CP pistons, quality stuff comes balanced already. My rods came in separate boxes with the weights of the big end, small end, and whole rod written in pencil on each box. All rods were within 2 grams of each other, considering that one rod weights 556 grams they are spot on.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Benjithx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


local macine shop wants 200$ for balancing, I will be fine with out.</TD></TR></TABLE>

200? good golly!!! too bad you're not in Texas, i paid $75 to balance the complete bottom end and thats not a hookup price either...