PphamEK

So i am building my bottom end at the moment and was wondering what turbo set would fit best for my build and something i can start out with. Turbo, mani, ect. would like this to be a DD/WW car. Shootin for 300-425WHP Possible?

Here whats im got done so far.
B18c motor in a 95 hatch.
Wiesco 81.5mm 9.7-10:1 comp (Stock Sleeves)
Manley H-beam
ACL Bearings
ARP headstuds & Rod bolts
All bottom end gaskets been replace.(OEM)
OEM headgasket
Stock Head

30psi_gst

5557 billet wheel, T3 .63

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

that's one of MANY combinations that can do thatjob..

Look to several things to help make this determination.

-budget
-Ball-bearing or journal bearing cartridge
-Use of A/C for facing the driver side
-Power use (Street/strip, daily, torque needs, etc)
-How did you want the power delivery? Higher top end, mid range torque, etc.

Once you've gone through some sole searching, come back wit more questions.

wunfstgsr

While im on this thread i have a question my self sorry op for stealing this but anyone know a turbo setup good for 800hp, my long block is from JG, the stg 3 turbo block and pro series head, its good for 750hp easily turbo charged although its gonna have a jrsc setup, in the future i'm gonna turbo this so a couple ideas would be nice .

Poootie

see post #66
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...2703987&page=3

PphamEK

Im trying to spend no more than 800 just for the turbo.
Would like a ball bearing turbo
Use of A/C for facing the driver side? What do you mean? i dont really care for A/C lol.
Its gonna be a my daily, so i would like to have a decent amount of torque. Maybe around 200-250 Ftlbs
I would like the power to be from Mid range but still have a little top end power.
This is my first turbo build so I would like to hear what your guys opinions are for my set up.

Thanks for your time.

30psi_gst

800 for a ball bearing turbo isnt happening, unless you fine it used. The turbo i suggested is just a little bit bigger then a 50trim (54mm). The 5557 will however spool up a lot faster. It will probably make a lot more tq then 250 tho. I got a buddy with a stock B18c with a 57 trim BW, 8psi it made 327whp and like 250wtq. If you go with what i suggested i can promise you wont be disappointed. Same car above with the turbo i suggested would probably be closer to around 370-380whp and 300wtq on 8psi.

PphamEK

Thanks lot. whats the ave price 4 a 5557 and how is the top end power on it? any others? t3/t4 ball bearing? SC61?

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

He's right. steel-ball-bearing isn't happening for 800whp. But there's also the GT series journal bearing turbochargers that are $750 which includes ceramic coating. Check with Schister66 and his GT3255B, and is rebuildable without waiting 3 weeks for an additional billet wheel (and is all GARRETT).

PM me and/or Schister66. There are maps and graphs available for this turbocharger

cjordan

iTrader: (1)

I have always been a fan of the SC61 for that power range and they are very reasonably priced. There are also some Borg Warner options that will deliver that power as well for a very reasonable price.

Poootie

http://www.xenocron.com/precision-tu...49d8c9f67d4ad5

i'd go with the 6076..

PphamEK

Hows the Spool and top end power on that?

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

They work, but is a big laggy compressor wheel to start off. We've used those before. They are like a different design of the 60-1 compressor wheel, and was matched with a larger exhaust wheel. for the Daily driver characteristics you're looking for unless you plan on over 400whp on a daily basis.

30psi_gst

Dude they are cheap. Like 849.99 from most places. Its a billet wheel. The wheel is lighter, billet is MUCH stronger which means the fins are cut much thinner allowing for more air and a much lighter wheel. It will make power at a MUCH MUCH higher RPM then any of the standard garrett ****.

**** that 6076 ****. All that is is a 60-1 garrett compressor wheel with a huge turbine wheel. A lot of lag with shitty peak power. A big turbine wheel with a small compressor to me should only be used on larger motors that what to run small amount of boost. Like someone twin turboing a V8. Its gonna make more power per lbs of boost. But its gonna lag alot on a 4 cylinder. So on like 8psi that turbo would make more power then the 6031E on 8psi. But the 6031E would spool up a bit faster.

Trust me dude, you will destroy any similar setup with a garrett, BW, whatever. Get the 5557.

PphamEK

What is the most power/torque you ever seen on the 5557 billet wheel, T3 .63 turbo.? what car and set up? im really thinkin about it.. i would like to be able to be in the high 11s. if possible

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Hehe. At least your energy is infectious. I like that. You'd be surprised what that 60-1 can do when matched with the correct turbine wheel and housings for Hondas. My last version made full pressure of 20psi under 4200rpms to make over 550whp (but again, that's with the right combination). the 6031 is the less effective choice if going for a better torqueband to be used for regular street use.

Having the Billet wheel can be advantageous for 2 reasons. 1) The manufacturer is able to make a more aerodynamic wheel for a particular application without the need of waiting for the big manufacturers to go through the OEM testing in order to have a released product 2) The wheel is more durable from reversion and FOD debris than inconel wheels, which is why it was used for years on busses and rig truck applications.

The wheel being seemingly "lighter" does not have the rotational inertial effect that you think that it does. There is no advantage on the weight. that has already been shown in explosion testing. Notice here. http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob...ochargers.html, there is no mention of it being more efficient due to less mass. it is because of the improved aerodynamics of the wheel design does the job, not the change in mass.
Another testimate to that is here: http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob..._Machined.html

"Higher Flowrates, Horsepower or Efficiency?

No. Garrett® compressor wheels are designed from the ground up to optimize performance. The blade shape and wheel diameter are the most critical factors to optimize to achieve high performance. Garrett® fully-machined (billet) wheels take their blade designs from Garrett® cast wheels. Regardless of the wheel manufacturing process, dedicated aerodynamic engineers spend countless hours using computational fluid dynamics (CFD) and finite element analysis (FEA) to design compressor blades.

To test this, our engineers ran identically-designed compressor wheels on our gas stands. We removed as many confounding variables as possible; there were no vehicles, no engines, just a test cell and a turbo. The only difference between the wheels tested was the manufacturing process used to create them."

The other drawback is reproduction, If the maker of such a wheel was no longer available, or if you were in a location in which you were not able to wait several weeks to get the turbo compressor wheel replaced or repaired. You would have to find some other means to get back on the road. The danger with billet wheel use is availability if the company that normally could CAD/CAM the wheel, and then make subsequent changes to it much easier than making a new mold design for a casting is not available; many times, this is not something "on the shelf" unless they have specifically prepared for it. In some cases, people have waited MONTHS to not only receive their initial order, but any subsequent rebuilds, or replacements if something went wrong.

Being a 1st time user of a turbocharger, its best to start a little simpler, with parts that have a bit more availability, and honestly, a NICE looking unit that can be used and resold if necessary without any issues. Billet is nice, Hell, I have a custom one myself from my own CAD design, but that's because i have the resources, and have the availability when needed. But you also need to think of the LONG RUN for yourself.

fusion645

Im boosting a B18C this year too. I have the same set up almost. You might wanna consider a B16 head with that B18C bottom end. Im running supertech valve train in the B16 head.

30psi_gst

I dont see where in that article it said that the wheel was lighter but didnt flow more air. I also never said it would flow more simply because it was lighter. I said it allows for the blades to be cut thinner allowing it to flow much more air.

Whether its available or not. If it needs to be rebuilt in a short amount of time. A traditional garrett wheel can be put in it im sure. I have a 6162 with a .81 T4 exhaust housing that i put on my billet 6262 and it fit up just fine. I only swapped it to see if it would work and the difference in response from one to the other. Because my 6262 had an open .68 when i bought it. So pretty much the 6162 .81 non billet wheel turbo housing would fit on my newer billet wheel turbo with a .68 turbine housing.

Ill always run billet wheels. The HTA series from FP all run billet wheels. The guy that made my top mount for my DSM runs 5.7's @ 130mph on a 3586r hta in an 8th.

30psi_gst

Not to many people get the 5557 because the turbos spool fairly quickly so people go bigger then normal. Like my .68 6262 billet outspools my 6162 non billet by about 500rpms. It will produce enough power to easily compete with a 30r if not outflow it. A 3076r has a 54lbs/min wheel, roughly 540hp. It will easily do that. Ive got a buddy with a 5862 and it outflowed his 6165 with both turbos on 30psi.

Maxed out, i would say it would be in the range of about a 600whp turbo. Most 3076r's wont flow that.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

[QUOTE=30psi_gst;41273722] Its a billet wheel. The wheel is lighter, billet is MUCH stronger which means the fins are cut much thinner allowing for more air and a much lighter wheel. It will make power at a MUCH MUCH higher RPM then any of the standard garrett ****.
I understand, but the blades being "cut thinner" is not the reason why they have more CFM efficiency. I'm glad you're running the wheels. I too have used them on several applications, but your statement seems to imply that because the wheel is "lighter", it is thinner, thereby "cutting more air" and making more power. Your logic is not correct. It is because the aerodynamic design that available to be used is more efficient than the inconel equivalent which allow more CFM airflow to result. I'm not trying insist that billet is not to be used, or that you aren't intelligent, simply that your reasoning behind why they are more efficient on average is not correct.

30psi_gst

If the design being different is the only reason, then why dont they just use a standard type wheel instead of coming out with a "billet wheel" and changing up the design.

I think that the material has pretty much everything to do with the design or they would of gone thru with this design long ago, or just ran differently contructed wheels and not even worried about a "billet wheel".

30psi_gst

Straight from turbonetics Dec 15th 2009

Cast wheels have limits in their design that billet does not. For example, for a cast wheel to be able to be strong enough to stand up to the harsh environment inside the turbo, some design features can only be changed so much before the life of the component is compromised. Details like the size of the fins on the wheel, thickness of the wheel and hub size are all factors that directly effect the performance and efficiency of the turbo.

With the new billet turbo wheel, Turbonetics was able to shrink the size of the hub of which the turbo wheel mounts, meaning the fins can be longer - which means the wheel can move more air. They also machined the fin thickness to a much smaller spec that leads to less friction applied to the passing air that translates to less heat and more power. The smaller fins also leads to a higher percentage of the wheel’s mass being in the center. That combined with the over all weight savings compared to their cast counterparts means this turbo can also spin at a higher RPM.