I am trying to find out some info on block posting, and the search gave me nothing. More specifically, I'm trying to find out whether or not a posted D16Z6 with stock sleeves would be able to handle any real abuse. I mean, of course it would handle 10 psi and a stock redline, but what about 18-20 psi on a low compression build with a 9000rpm redline... Anyone here blown up a stock sleeve, posted block?

 

i have read with a posted block it will hold ~22psi (not sure what turbo.. cuz 22 psi on greddy turbo is different from a sc50). i dont think it will hold as a daily driver.
if you are revving a z6 to 9k and had a low compression build, you should of put sleeves too.
although someone on here has had 20 psi on a bone stock block. its all in tuning

 

I understand what you are saying about sleeving the block. That is still an option as I have not built the block yet, just gathering info to decide how I want to go. I don't want to spend the money for bulletproof sleeves if I don't need them in a 400whp application. I also sure as hell don't want to spend the money for sleeves only to have them slip later on. Most of the sleeves on the market I refuse to trust mostly due to horror stories. The Bensons seem good, but I don't like the idea of them not having any support on the sides. That's just me.

The AEBS sleeves are very nice, and the AEBS guys are friends of mine, I have seen them installed, and they use a process similar to Benson, where there is no chance that the sleeves can slip, but the closed deck makes me wonder about cooling.

The GE sleeves look great, but I don't know about the chances of them slipping.

Most of all, I can post the block and install rods and pistons myself, but the sleeving process is not something I can do at home. I'm one of those guys who does not trust anything that I don't do myself...

 

Larry at Endyn is one of the few people that believes in pinning stock sleeves. What would stop a sleeve from cracking in an area that could not be pinned? The problem is the quality of the stock sleeve will not hold anywhere near 400whp, even if you fill the block with cement.
You have stated reasons why each brand of sleeves will not work for you. I won't comment on other brands but I will say with the Benson install, there is no need for any side braces. Any sleeve that needs to be wedged into a block is subject to error. Benson leaves more meat around the sleeve than other types of installs.

 

You are talking about leaving more of the stock aluminum around the benson sleeve correct? Just trying to make sure I fully understand what you are saying.

My concern with sleeves that are not supported on the sides, of course, is sleeve walk. I know that the stock sleeves have been known to walk under relatively light loads. I have seen your write-up on how the benson sleeves are installed, and I would like to know what keeps them from walking? Understand that I mean no ill intent in asking this, I am simply curious as there is much that I do not know about the sleeving process.

 

Just another note for you...

I run AEBS sleeves in my '98 GSR and I have not had an overheating problem due to the "closed deck" design yet. I personally believe the fears of closed deck and overheating are blown out of proportion. They still have plenty of good sized coolant passages to take care of the coolant flow.

 

Thanks for the reply, this was one of the questions I wanted to ask also, but I hear that the B series engines are less likely to have an overheating condition due to the differences in the water jacket compared to the D series. Anyone want to chime in about this who uses AEBS sleeves in a D series engine? If I hear that they are not causing overheating problems in a D series engine then I am very likely to get them simply because I know the guys and can probably get myself a pretty good deal on them. I know Liam had some severe overheating issues using a block gaurd in one of his D series engines, so I would expect the same from the AEBS sleeves...