TeggieeTuner

Ive read the "official crankcase evacuation thread" It did not answer my question.
Im just curious , For a 600+whp ls-v turbo setup will a 4 line catch can kit be enough?
2 from valvecover and 2 from block? ( like the BWR kit)
OR would i need 4 from valve cover and 2 from block( like the T1/IPG kit)

The last catch can i had was endyn and it was just 2 from the block and it filled up fast! it had a little water mixed with it too, so now i dont know why all these kits drain back into the block...

Im on a whole new engine and setup now, trying to get it right this time.

Thanks!

Natural Aspirations

In....
looking for a good 4 port option as well

The water is generally condensation that turns into steam during warm up, no reason to get concerned with that. Containing the oil isn't a must and re-routing it back to the engine is the best option for a street car, what the idea of the system is to allow pressure relief. The ports on the back of the block tend to cause a lot more oil to be captured than the valve cover.

Whiterice-gsr

the go auto kit is the best one ive seen if u are willing to pay 500 for it. if your can is filling quickly then the more ports the better. it comes with everything u need all u have to do is have the bungs welded in the cover. recirculating it back into the oil pan is not something i would be comfortable with on my own car. id rather drain it as needed and top up the oil with fresh stuff.

TeggieeTuner

I understand the idea but how can i run a 6 line kit without allowing it to drain back into the block?
That just dosent seem like a good idea to me.

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

^^

If you have a 6 line kit, i doubt there will be that much oil blowing in there. If it does, just keep checking it.

Whiterice-gsr

i meant to say that with 6 -10an lines it shouldnt fill quickly at all that should be a ton or relief even at 600hp. the catch can filling quickly is a sign that u need more venting.

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

I picked up what u put down

blackeg

this year i switched from the back of the block setup to using 2 -10 lines off the valvecover. it drastically reduced the oil that i get in the can. this is for 500hp out of my engine. you might see less blow by making the switch too. this would mean you dont need as much catchcan. i personally would feel that you wouldnt need more than 4 -10 lines off the valvecover

TeggieeTuner

What i mean, is that if i have a 6 line kit it would never fill up because it all drains back into the motor.... Hell the 4 line kit would do the same.
I dont want that nasty **** goin back in my motor

Whiterice-gsr

whether u reuse the oil or not is up to how u install it. so 4 to valve cover and 2 to the back of the block on the 6 line setup. none returning to the oil pan.

nealnanoHX

I have mine setup similar to the ENDYN kit with the oil draining back into the block. I have had no issues from letting the oil drain back into the motor that is if the can even gets any oil. So far it seems that I get next to no oil in the can only crank case vapors but I am not boosted yet.

b20ricepower

On my 6765 84mm build i was having issues with crankcase pressure on my 2 lines to the block setup. Now I have 2 lines to back of block, 2 lines to the valve cover, and a breather fitting on the nipple of the valve cover. All -10an hose. No issues anymore. But yes the vent lines from the back of the block always send more oil vapors through them. Its not a huge amount but some does get pushed through

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

From my experience the two lines on the back of the block are what allow the oil to full up the catch can. I've had great success with lines off the valve cover. I'm running two -10 lines for 600hp I would say two -12 lines or four -10 or for more overkill four -12 lines

I'm surprised no one has made a baffled fitting yet for the back of the block, that would keep the oil out of the can

m3tech95

I had the two lines to the block on my stock B16 turbo setup with a moroso catch can + filter....best investment on a stock motor allowing all that excess pressure to be relieved will save your motor.... i just had to check it every so often to make sure it wasnt full which will be easy if you mount it conveniently enough....valve cover only ports never sat right with me when logically speaking almost all the pressure is in the block not the head... if your can is filling up too quickly thats possibly a sign of too mch blowby/piston rings going bad...

kbouchard1092

I agree with M3tech completly. You should get the crankcase pressure from the source. Granted you can still relieve pressure thru the valve cover its not going to do as good of a job as getting it directily from the source via. Ports on back of block. I have had mine drain back (endyne kit) Never had a issue over 3 years

Natural Aspirations

You get a lot more oil captured when venting from the rear of the block due to the fact that oil is continuously running down that wall and gets "blown" into the breather, not necessarily because you have blow by issues.

kbouchard1092

Agreed. I think alot of people really make to big of a deal about a drain back. I mean if its a drag car then i can see not doing it. On a street car its just the most functional and if youre catch can filled up a quart then youre motor is going to be a quart low. Its minor condensation. You have can condensation in the valve cover from normal heat cycles. That doesnt mean im going to take the valve cover off to wipe off the condestation every time i start my car. For 600whp 2 on the back of block and two on the valve cover will be plenty imo.To be honest i have the Endyn kit and if i got to 600whp i wouldnt be changing my current Set-up.

Whiterice-gsr

theres your next innovation for your new store bud lol. turbo-ls performance