440hp, sheared/broken studs?
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I have a b16 with an AFI ramhorn manifold, garret turbo blah blah. 440hp. Well had it running for about a week or so. I have beaten on it a fair amount, and today my buddy pointed out that 4 of my studs on top where the manifold bolts to the head were sheared off. Studs are still there but the nut and rest of stud sheared off.
question-Anyone ever have this problem? if so what have you done to beef it up, or should i look into seeing if ARP hardware is the way to go? thanks
question-Anyone ever have this problem? if so what have you done to beef it up, or should i look into seeing if ARP hardware is the way to go? thanks
Yep happened to me. Go out and buy some stainless steel studs or buy bolts and make your own studs. That's what I did and haven't had a problem in years.
The problem with a lot of the studs people use is that they cannot take BOTH the weight and heat a turbo setup produces.
Also, make sure you have them tight enough. Sometimes they sheer off from the weight and not being torqued properly.
The problem with a lot of the studs people use is that they cannot take BOTH the weight and heat a turbo setup produces.
Also, make sure you have them tight enough. Sometimes they sheer off from the weight and not being torqued properly.
Were the studs in the middle or towards the outside sheared off? Sometimes they can shear as the flange expands from heat. The holes in the manifold should be larger towards the outside to help account for this expansion. I'm not familiar with AFI manifolds to say if this is how they are but it's something else to check. Another method is to slot the flange between each runner to give the runners room to move.
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Were the studs in the middle or towards the outside sheared off? Sometimes they can shear as the flange expands from heat. The holes in the manifold should be larger towards the outside to help account for this expansion. I'm not familiar with AFI manifolds to say if this is how they are but it's something else to check. Another method is to slot the flange between each runner to give the runners room to move.
What do you mean by slot the flange between each runner?
Thanks for the help man...
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Arp makes accessory studs that are 190000psi tinsel stregth and stainless steel. They come in odd number packGes so you either have to be shirt one stud or have like 7 to many I just get the package that leaves you one short and use a stock stud for that. I've had mine for 5 years without a single issue
I found a 10-pack of ARP stainless studs m8 x 1.25 38mm length (oem are 37mm). Part# 400-8022. But they are like $80 at JEGS 
OP, do you have a flex pipe in the exhaust system? might help to cut down on vibrations.

OP, do you have a flex pipe in the exhaust system? might help to cut down on vibrations.
I use the ARP accessory studs for better serviceability. The repeated install/removal of the stock bolts started to gull the threads. I studded them before it become worse.
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ah im running open downpipe and i do not. i am going to get a full 3in back exhaust with flex pipe. But i will def look into that thanks man
Do NOT use King. Those are the ones that sheared off on me! Use ARP or another other stainless studs/bolts you can find. I believe I got my Stainless studs from mcmaster
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