Boosted_01 R

Doing a super basic turbo set-up on my daily(1998 Civic SI (D16y8)), can stand 100WHP if so much anymore.

Set-up:
D16Y8
t3 turbo
HKS AIC-SI

Sooo Question:

(1) Can the stock fuel pump work for 220WHP (Stock main injectors, and (2) 550cc precision Secondary injectors)?

(2) Also does a stock integra LS fuel pump flow more than the a stock civic SI fuel pump?

OR

Call it a day and put a walbro?

Any useful input would be great. Thanks

azandford

i picked up a walbro on ebay for 90 bucks shipped... took ten minutes to install

TurboChurch

Walbro will save you alot of aggrevation, also a set of 550's or even DSM 450's for primaries. The secondaries dont distribute the fuel evenly enough to all cylinders. I had this setup up ( 240's with 2 550 secondaries) for about a year. It never ran correctly A/F wise, but made about 200whp. I then switched to RC550's as primaries,unhooked secondaries, walbro pump, and tuned accordingly. 220whp/185Tq 9psi T3/T4 on a D16Y8 for about 2 years. Wanted more torque so I swapped it out for built 2.0L turbo'd.

Boosted_01 R

Not sure what AIC you were running but i played with this same HKS set up years ago, made 387WHP and 435WTQ with stock mains and (2) 1000cc on a Datsun (L28ET engine), and good AFR.

Yes i know main 450cc or 550cc would be better, worked on enough turbo cars to know what works, and what doesn't.
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If anyone has info or Spec's (LPH) on the stock pumps let me know. This tread is not about my set-up but the fuel pump.

Thanks

TurboChurch

It was an ERL MF2 AIC. Your comparison was with another engine. I am directly comparing my Y8 to the one you are working on. The secondaries dont distribute well enough through the stock Y8 manifold during boost. My findings were that the stock Y8 pump got me to 12psi on a T3/T4 50 trim before leaning out due to pump. This was done with a stock FPR also.

I was told that the B series pumps would flow around 135lph while the stock D series was less. I dont have any data to give other than that for flow numbers. I will see if I can get the specs for you and post back.

Boosted_01 R

Ah, I see what your saying about the manifold. 135lph should be fine for 220WHP i would think, considering the 1 walbro in my R is handling 575WHP. The only problem I could see using the stock B-series pump is pressure drop when the secondary injectors are firing. If you find out any specs would be great

Thanks

Hybrid96EK

I dont have flow numbers but I did watch my stock DX Civic fuel pump crap out on the dyno at 170whp when I was NA... I put in an Integra pump and was able to hold solid fuel pressure for a 190whp dyno. I do know the stock Civic pumps flow less then the Integra pumps. I would NOT try to boost that car with the stock pump. Especially if you are aiming for 220whp.

Even though this thread isn't about your setup, I would be very careful with those HP numbers on stock internals. Ever seen a stock Y8 rod? Ever read about the oiling issues the Y series blocks have? Just a touch of advice.

Boosted_01 R

Yeah i know there not very strong but, don't see why 220WHP isn't possible stock internally, when a Z6 (yes i know its a bit better) can make 380WHP stock internally (except ARP studs). Got the oiling issue covered with porting and shimming the oil pump. First time playing with a D-series so it should be fun. If it turns out that a Y8 is that much weaker than a Z6, i'll throw in a Z6.......... its only a daily, it will never see the track.

Yeah, i think putting a walbro would be best, was trying to see if it has been done successfully, guess not.
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So a D16Y8 never made atleast 220WHP stock internally ? because that sucks hahaha

Hybrid96EK

People will speculate all day long on the source of the oiling issues. You don't have it "under control" by simply porting and shimming the oil pump. You need to examine the oil galleys in the crank and how they are drilled. If you want even a remotely reliable Y8 then you need to get a Z6 crank in there. I honestly think the whole porting and shimming the oil pump is complete crap... but hey, it makes people feel better.

A Z6 100% Stock at 380whp is either a complete crock of crap or a ticking time bomb. Take your pick.

I never said it CAN'T be done.. I was just trying to lend you some advice to make sure once you had it done, it lasted more then a week. I've done three turbo D setups to this day. Two Y8's and one Z6. Granted I never got into the "big" numbers, this third build is my first attempt at 350whp. If you can get 220whp reliably out of it then it will make a very entertaining daily. There is more to it then the oil pump on the Y8... thats all I am saying.

Boosted_01 R

O yeah, i totally understand what your saying about the oiling issues, i should have worded what i said better. The oil pump has been done and have been reliable with my HP range. It in no way is a cure for Y8 problems, but a step in the right direction from what i have seen lol.
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BTW what sort of power were you making on the Y8's ? Did they fail? if so what failed?

Thanks
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Here's a couple of links if you want to take a look

375WHP Stock Z6
http://forums.evans-tuning.com/viewt...hp?f=26&t=3788

308WHP Stock Z6
http://forums.evans-tuning.com/viewt...hp?f=26&t=2860

The rest are either built or in the 200's
http://forums.evans-tuning.com/viewforum.php?f=26

Hybrid96EK

Yeah. I know it HAS been done.. Im not saying that. See the reaction on that forum? Those guys are pretty shocked themselves. Its not something I would expect to last for a long time if you know what I mean. I guess I just don't have faith in the toothpick rods.

I never had one fail, but like I said I didn't push the limits either. The Z6 was a stock Greddy 19T kit. I ran 10lbs of boost and tuned it myself on Crome. It went 14.0 @ 102mph at 10psi. Was a pretty nice setup overall, but I wanted more.. I did put in the ZEX cam in this engine and retune also before I eventually got rid of the setup. The cam was worth a noticeable gain. I am hoping to pickup another for my current build.

The first Y8 was a Vitara with FJT rods build. Had ARP head studs also. The D's seem to lift heads when you push them past 10psi and that was my intentions when I built the Y8. I went with an Edelbrock kit for this build and ran 10psi just like on the Z6. Did 14.0 @ 105mph in the 1/4. I later cranked it up to 15psi and it was substantially better then 10psi, but I never ran it at the track. I sold the kit and the engine and went back to B. I've been through about 7-8 swaps in this chassis alone!

The current Y8 I just finished building. Its a Eagle/SRP build again with ARP headstuds. I ported the intake manifold to match it to the 60mm B series TB this time also. The throttle body on the D is a BIG restriction. I noticed a large difference all around when I bolt up a B throttle body on my first Y8 and that was without port matching the intake manifold. Im going with a custom setup this time, no kits. I've got a Spoolin log manifold, Garrett T3/T4 57 trim .60/.48ar, Tial 38mm wastegate, Go-Autoworks charge pipes, HKS SSQ BOV, and my Edelbrock intercooler from my last Y8 build. That with some 550cc injectors (for now). I want to reach 350whp.. If I can do it on pump gas, I don't know. Best I can get here in California is 91 octane. I am also going to do my best to retain the A/C as well. It gets quite hot out here in California and this is my daily driver.... On top of it all, the car is black.. Anyways. Hope this helps. If you can source a Z6 crank and have the money for some ARP headstuds you can have a LOT of fun with the D. I used to rag on them all the time, until I had a built a well tuned one. They are loads of fun and cheap.

Boosted_01 R

That's some pretty good info. Once I fab the turbo it, ill look into a B-series TB, a Zex cam, and some ARP studs if i go past 10psi.........will look into the crank too.
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Good luck on the 350WHP build. 350WHP is a lot of on the street. Couple years ago was running 14psi(assuming 350-380ish on a GT35R) on my R and it was pretty fun. Now at 20psi on the street its a bit much, wont really hook till 4th gear lol.

Good luck, and thanks for the info