Neticz

nice thread

LoneAutosport

Noob question, does anybody have a How to on installing a nitrous kit? Im new to nitrous i bought a Nos dry kit and eventually want to spray on my stock gsr direct port tuned. What would i need to accomplish this as in Fuel system etc... Thanks

JDM809

im looking into the corillo more do to there much better quality and yes i will be getting a distribution block. why would you recommened going dry shot? wouldnt a wet shot be alot safer? and as for the headers im still looking into it because i want something with bigger tubes. 2.5 atleast.

ghostofnyc

iTrader: (3)

whats done to your car now as in motor setup?

ghostofnyc

iTrader: (3)

With the dry as long as you have the fuel system example fuel pump and injectors to handle the shot seems to be the alot more controllable and easier to tune through the ecu just hard for some of us old school heads to grasp the change

wolve

i hope you mean carrillo rods...
the gap between eagle and carrillo is about the biggest you can get

there are alot of options that fall in between and will be perfectly fine on your setup. to name a few: crower, pauter, manley, etc.

the classic dry shot is iffy, dry shots done right as ghost explains is

header choice is alot of preference dictated by your budget custom is always best

it's easier then tuning a forced induction setup, instead of mutiple boost columns, you have a single fuel/ignition column per nitrous output (these columns add fuel and subtract timing from your NA map) controlled by parameters you set. actually very simple (KISS)

LoneAutosport

Its a stock gsr I plan on getting a better clutch, walboro 255 fuel pump, Injectors ???cc, rmf replica header, and 100 shot direct port..

JDM809

the biggest thing with my set up is this is my first nitrous build and its going to be my daily driver so i will not be spraying it all the time. yeah i will have a map to runn all motor and switch and map for when im on the bottle. with this set up im looking more for somewhat of a reliability then crazy all out power. i know nitrous is hard to say "i want a reliable nitrous build" but like i said nothing crazy its something to have fun with on the streets. depending on how this one one goes my all out h2b set up which i am going to start as soon as my daily is done will either be stroker all motor high compression or stroker nitrous. itll be an all out set up to run in the street class at the track.

wolve

a reliable nitrous setup is not as far fetched as alot of people think, as long as you put some tought in it

it's as safe/unsafe as turbo/supercharged.

the whole dry nitrous with the fueling trough a proper management (ectune, hondata, neptune, AEM, etc.) does not require to switch maps, drive retarded NA maps etc. with proper management, your setup runs perfect NA(and reliable), and with the flick of a switch a whole group of parameters are checked and if they are met the nitrous system is armed/activated and the ecu does makes all the adjustments (you tuned earlier) to make it run perfect (and reliable) on spray. with these sort of systems you can make it 95% moronproof if you want to

LoneAutosport

I have a Nos dry kit and im trying to make it a direct port kit and im going to be buy this direct port setup and was wondering what else is missing i thought there was supposed to be 6 lines and 4 foggers???

Ricer no 7

I would get a equal flow distribution block. I had a distribution block like that with a T fitting and I melted two valves because one cylinder flowed to much nitrous went lean on the dyno and then KO. Get a equal flow distribution block there like 20 bucks.

http://www.jegs.com/i/NOS/741/16712/10002/-1

here is a cheap one on jegs.

So LoneAutosport just get a equal flow distribution block and don't buy that set up. Actually read this whole thread and you will see why.

LoneAutosport

So what else would I need besides the distribution block(lines,foggers(4))

JDM809

so for my set up why wouldnt a 4-fogger wet shot nitrous kit be recommended? since i see i am being directed towards the dry shot...

ghostofnyc

iTrader: (3)

you can do either choice is yours you asked for opinions and we gave them i will probably never run a wet kit again after using a correctly setup dry system

LoneAutosport

So your saying that setup i post wouldn't flow the nitrous equally. So the equal flow block would be my best bet, what else would i need the complete the equal flow distribution block?

Transpoquick

Old Fart?, I'm 36. I posted time slips of my results, 98% of the performance claims on this sight are not backed by anything real.
Low 12's are good times for a Z6 on nitrous.
Anyone want to buy my my car?, http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...%3AMESELX%3AIT.
shameless post!, maybe not the fastest car on this site but it's definetly the cleanest!

Transpoquick

Now wait a second, you stated earlier that your looking to spray your DD w/ a 75 shot and then work your way up too a 100 shot.
You know that the ptw clearance for those shots is around .0035(that's thirty-five ten thousandths or three and a half thousandths). Hopefully you also know that your motor will run like crap with that ptw when your not spraying, that said, I'm assuming you are ok w/ having a daily driver that runs like poo(I'm keeping this PG so the **** moderators don't delete it) untill you "flip a switch" to change maps so you can spray "every once in awhile".
Better re-think what your doing, and being Mr. old school I don't recommend spraying your car on the street, if you get in a wreck w/ that thing armed and someone other than you gets hurt, the police are likely to "bust a cap in yo' ***". Thats just my opinion, now go find a switch that changes your piston to wall clearance because I know you are looking for reliability too.

2CAMSVTEC

seems that your the guy to go for real answers... well heres my question sir:
my set up is simple:
b18b1 81.5 bore (stock sleeves)
arias pistons 11.5 comp
eagle rods
b16 head light ported and polished
supertech spring and retainers
skunk2 pro 3's cams (i know they are too big but thats what i had laying around)
rc 310's injectors
walboro 255 fuel pump
hondata s300
b16 tranny with a quaife lsd

is for a full race car

i want to go with nitrous i have a nx wet system single fogger, i was thinking get a direct port system and use the single fogger on the tube,
activate the direct port with a full throttle switch and a manual switch for the second stage ...
im thinking 100 on the direct port and 60 on the intake tube... or even a bigger shot, whatever makes it goes faster .
my questions are:
is this the right way to do it?? the 2 stages?
how big of a shots would you think my motor can handle (with proper dyno tune)??
do i need to upgrade my ignition for this set up?
thx any help/input will help

K20egcw

A dry kit is also a lot more reliable/safe since your only relying on 1 solenoid opening, not 2. If your nitrous system relies on both solenoids and the fuel fails, its going to lean out and not be good. If your dry and tune with the injectors you only have to worry about your nitrous solenoid opening, if it doesnt then you will know right away and can shut it down preventing your motor for damaging.

JDM809

thank you sir for you answer. that just made a big difference.

FST GSR 1

Funnier then a 36 yr old bracket racer in a gutted SOHC that cant afford to pay his engine guy the 200$ he owes him?

bauergold

teamcalloway08

Are you bipolar? You might want to check into that..They make medicine for that you know.

Transpoquick

Hey thats a good one, I like that "bi-polar", Ouch I think I'm gonna cry or be mad....no I think I'll cry, nah laughing....laughing.....laughing.......streetable nitrous motors...bwahahah, reliable..............not if people that can't even spell build them, or punctuate Bwahahah,

teamcalloway08

Point proven...

Please don't pm me btw.