FST GSR 1

Transpo, selling the car to move out of your moms basement or pay off debts?

wolve

bwahaha, you guys are killing me!!!

that's the only usefull things transpo does, saying things we can laugh about. the rest you can blatently consider as nonsense

wolve

ricer, i never wanted to see i told you so, but i did tell you . sorry to see you learned it the hard way, upside is that you can warn others

once again...

take a good look at this film and see the non-equal nitrous distribution (if you can see with your bare eyes it's means it's pretty bad)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mTIMxLGqteI

noswizard did a few videodocumented tests that showed excactly the same problems but easyier to see

wolve

i to posted my timeslips to, how special

low 12's are nice for a stockish n2o z6 in a daily driver on slicks...

twelves in a gutted 'racecar' on slicks and spray is to about, no matter wich engine.

what is your fetish about a bit of ptw and drivability?
enough people running all motor daily driven cars with forged slugs that run those ptw's. they don't drive like poo, they just slap a bit at cold starts

i run a 150shot daily driven on pump, my mate runs a 75shot daily driven on pump, so do a lot of people. me and my mate have absolutely no negative side-effects when running NA (both running 194ish whp). it's called management and proper tuning, items you probably don't recognize seeing your slow 'race' setup.

FST GSR 1

Lone, look into a wilson block.

teamcalloway08

I drove around for 2 years with a high compression "100 shot" Ls Integra.Drove it 70miles to work and back every day and everywhere else I had to go.Never had a single problem it was honestly the most reliable car I've ever owned.

wolve

clap...clap...clap...

thank you sir for the support, i've been trying to tell people this for ages!

if you want to keep as safe/reliable as possible, you have eliminate possible failures!

possible failures
wet setup spraying dangers:
- fuel solenoid fails or a line get's clogged = BOOMMM
- fuel side loose connection or defective relais = BOOMMM
- your regular fuel injector fails = BOOMMM
- some sort of fuel cut (revlimiter, etc.) = BOOMMM
- fuel pump goes out slowly= BOOMMM
- nitrous solenoid fails or a line get's clogged = running rich and loosing power, rings will fail eventually

dry setup trough the injectors spraying dangers:
- your regular fuel injectors fails = no fuel means no combustion so no boom
- some sort of fuel cut (revlimiter, etc.) = no fuel means no combustion so no boom
- fuel pump goes out slowly= BOOMMM, live with it, riskfree is a illusion
- nitrous solenoid fails or a line get's clogged = running rich and loosing power, rings will fail eventually

on a correct dry setup there are so much less things that can go wrong!!!

not to mention the far easier tuning!!!

wolve

the only thing i'm dodgy about is the HUGE cams on the little 1.8...
i also am not known with the specs of the ringland thickness and material of the arias slugs. no doubt they are strong enough to hold the 160shot provided the PTW's are in check for the added heat

as you probably know you'll never see me advicing a wet single fogger as i'm not convinced on the mixing properties. also on the wet direct port, get a good dist block and read trough this thread on advice for line length/material, ratio between nitrous/fuel lines, etc, etc...
or save yourself a headache, get some 1000cc ID's, go dry and spray as many stages as you want without the hassle/risk.

Transpoquick

You guys are un-beliveable. Too f%$Kin' stupid to build anything with more than 4 cylinders, ignorant enough to belive your rice powered shitboxes make power.
Live in my moms basement?, where do you come up with this?, you know you can't argue about cars w/ me so you gotta sink to personal comments, like I said in my last pm, you are the biggest dork in this thread, next to the douchebag from the third world country who has to build Das' honduhs because nothing else is available. Hes says Nitrous is hard to find and expensive yet he's a friggin' nitrous pro.
.........live in my moms basement....are you speaking from experience, do you live with your mom, perhaps in the same room?, sleep in the same bed?. I already know your potentially gay from previous comments, I should probably shut-up you could be a serial killer, or a child molester.

Transpoquick

BTW. LOL, this is the third time I've seen that stupid video from Das' wolve.
Aren't you bored of these shitbox four cylinders yet?.
Hand-me-downs from your mothers. Bwahahahahh, I love Hoondafarie-tech, its been a bit of a distraction from real work lately though.
BTW#2, Das' wolve, ptw clearances for a nitrous motor don't affect the motor when it's not being sprayed or "street driven"?. now there is some nonsense?, anybody who gobbles up that wolve poo is as big of a fu#$in' moron as you.

teamcalloway08

Let it go buddy. No one takes you serious.

Transpoquick

You three don't, you put alot of time into that did your mommy make you draw that so you can cope with your own shortcoming?.
Lets see some pictures of your car so we can all have something to really laugh about.
You too das' wolve, and slow as ricer GSR, put some pictures up of your car instead of worthless grainy video of things you think are wrong with peoples nitrous kits.

wolve

subtracting power from a little 4cil is more of a challenge then anything else.
you are just frustrated you not getting more then 250whp out of your ´racecar´, that doesnt that normal and sane people can´t make power out of our ´shitboxes´.

this douchebag from a third world country is making more power then you on pump in a daily and living in one of the richest countries in the world. and yes, i´m one of the pioneers in the nitrousscene in the Netherlands.

yeah because a lot of people are misinformed by stupid morons like you who don't seem to grasp that the traditional T-like dist block provide an uneven nitrous distribution and has serious power/safety disadvantages. but fools like you will probably never grasp it and continue being slow, no matter how many cilinders

PTW #'s do affect the motor but are not detrimental to NA performance, especially when you're talking about only 35

anybody who gobbles up my advice is stupid, ask ricerno7. it would've saved his motor

i posted up pics of my ride, it's not pretty, i care how it runs

Transpoquick

^^^says it all right there, can't spell, believes ptw has no effect on performance and agrees his car is a POS.
I'm selling the ricemobile because it makes 0 sense to work on. Front wheel drive compact disposable POS that would fit in the trunk of my other car thats parked in my garage that sits behind my house.
I have wasted enough time talking rice w/ you guys. Good luck some day you will all wise up.
BTW **** moderator Hybrid Civic LS-T deleted another one of my post.
Hey pal you know making up your own car models makes you look like a fool, don't you?.
maybe you want to buy my car, No rust, its already nice and ricey.

JDM809

I wont really be spraying in the streets while daily driving. forget i even mentioned spraying on the street i meant something totally different just forget that part completely. as far as the map. well my tuner which is yosolo has tuned other cars on my team and they run 2 maps 1 for all motor daily driving and 1 for when spraying. and when the switch is on all motor map the car runs great i have yet to notice anything bad. so why wouldnt it work for me?

Blk99ek

i love nitrous lol

K20egcw

Meeee toooo!! lol

Ricer no 7

Yah i knew it was a bad idea. I actually bought the equal flow distribution block and hardlines before I melted the valves. Realized I was going to have to get all new fittings and then probably retap the manifold higher. So I decided to just tune it without the equal flows since I would have to redo the whole set up everything on the equal flows. That was a bad choice. Melted to valves =( and messed the head up a little.

I learned but I'm currently broke and just working on school so i'll finish the set up maybe in the summer time when I have some more time to work and make some disposable income.

Is your car back up yet? By any chance wolve?

wolve

he's finally gone...
people like transpo got me more and more motivated trough time. because people keep telling me stuff can't be done on spray. you should've heared the dutch people 2-3 years ago when i said i was gonna hit 10sec on spray alone within 5 years. funny how people can be limited by convential thinking

transpo is one of them, we've disagreed before (see: https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...119397&page=88)
funny how my car is a POS while his is the best
it's my grocery getter (EJ2)with a bit off spray running: 12.3@119mph on streettires riding the limiter in fourth
his car is a FULLY stripped/gutted/caged trackonly car running: 12.5@106mph on slicks blowing up everytime he tries to go faster

and my spelling, hey i'm Dutch it's not perfect but it's understandable

offcourse it'll work great for you when tuned right.
in ectune/hondata and i believe neptune also you don't even need to run a completely separate map. it just fuel/ignition corrections linked to an output, it's very easy to tune and untill your actually spraying everything is still the same as NA. ectune can run up to 3 stages and i think you can even combine them to support as much stages as you want

wolve

sad story... even more frustrating that you had the right parts laying around but never got to install them. i feel for you...

money makes the world go round, as in my situation.
it's damn near impossible to find a mint condition b18c short block (mine has a 0.5mm dent in the cil1 wall) for a somewhat affordable price in the netherlands. b18a/b's are even more rare. so i'm stuck with either a b16 or b20 shortblock for a moderate price. to give you guys an idea:

sleeving my block (darton): 1400e = 2066$
stripped b18c shortblock with busted bearings: 500e = 738$
complety empty/dented b18c shortblock: 350e = 516$
importing shortblock from the states: (shortblockprice+300-400$)x1.25= shortblock+shipping+customs/taxes

so i'm screwed anyway.

anyway, money or no money, my setup will hit the streets somewhere in april/may because traction is nowhere to be found during fall/winter/spring
so i'm still undecided on shelling out for a b18c+pistons+rods or b16+pistons+rods (maybe 87.2mm b16) or a stock sleeve b20+pistons+rods (87.2 or 77.4mm)

wichever shortblock comes by at a reasonable price, but 10's will be achieved next season

Vagitarian

Wow, that nitrous video, what kind of setup is that??? I used to run a zex dry kit back n the day, was a 75 shot on a zc, ran perfect. But the distribution in that vid made it look horrible!!!

Has that vid been around a long time and been seen by alot of people???

wolve

video has been around some time...
the sad part is that the guy who made it, made it to show off his awesome setup

the distribution in that video is due to the distribution block design wich 90% of the direct port kits come with. hence my effort to show people it's ruining engines!!!

it's not nitrous that blows up setups, it's the crap kits that are getting sold

Vagitarian

^^^ that design is the BAD?? What is the proper design, Im curious how it equals the flow. I am thinking of making a budget track car, and a high comp, relatively stock motor GSR with direct port is what I will probly settle on

wolve

YES, indeed!

here are some good design equal flow dist blocks







look at the designs and understand why the traditional is so wrong
don't think of nitrous as a liquid, it's a fluid up until the solenoid, when pressure is relieved (activated) it starts to phase change at every possible spot

LoneAutosport

I have my dry kit already what else would i need minus that and the distribution block to complete my direct port kit?????