System Progress
* Front door before deadening
* Front door after deadening. Edead V1SE(2) mat used for inner and outer door sheet metal. Outer sheet metal has 2 layers on all, and 4 layers directly behind the speaker with Edead V4 Teklite on top to absord midrange reflecction. Edead V4 used again to prevent the metal rods from rattling.
* Rear area with interior removed
* Edead V3 liquid deadener applied, Edead V1SE(2) mat deadening will be applied on top of this
* Starting to deaden inside side cavity, these cavities will be filled with expanding foam after the outter sheet metal has been fully deadened. Peel & Seal is being used for the outter skin deadening.
* Rear hatch door deadening started
Thats it so far... I have alot more work to do so pics will be added as I move along. This will be the demo vehicle for Sundown Audio when it's ready. I intend to supercharge it so I can actually drive regular speed with the extra weight from deadening and the upcoming system

The roof will be deadened using Second Skin Damplifier. I'm ordering that in the next few days.
Hey, looking good.
Tell us the diffrence afterwards in road noise also.
And try weighing eveything before you instsall it to get a good idea of how
much weight was applied in the end.
Edead V3 liquid deadener applied
Is this stuff heavy? how well is this product?
Thanks, Jose
Tell us the diffrence afterwards in road noise also.
And try weighing eveything before you instsall it to get a good idea of how
much weight was applied in the end.
Edead V3 liquid deadener applied
Is this stuff heavy? how well is this product?
Thanks, Jose
Jose,
The V3 is a good product but application is somewhat of a pain. It takes a good bit of time to fully set, around 24 hours or so unless it's very warm outside. It is also VERY thick so you almost have to apply it with your hands wearing gloves -- a brush simply won't do.
I really haven't weighed everything, but I can give you as estimate based on UPS shipping weights. I estimate my sound deadening will probably weigh around 150 - 200 pounds by the time I'm done. With my stereo equipment it'll be an addition 400 - 500 pounds or so in the car overall.
****
bart2546,
Thanks
****
One more note... I use a TON of aluminum tape as well. I like to cover all the seams of the deadener and the tape also adds rigidity to the panels. This is especially handy since Edead V1SE(2) is not very rigid on it's own due to the metallized mylar backing. Other deadeners like Peel & Seal and Damplifier use an aluminum backing material for more rigidity.
The V3 is a good product but application is somewhat of a pain. It takes a good bit of time to fully set, around 24 hours or so unless it's very warm outside. It is also VERY thick so you almost have to apply it with your hands wearing gloves -- a brush simply won't do.
I really haven't weighed everything, but I can give you as estimate based on UPS shipping weights. I estimate my sound deadening will probably weigh around 150 - 200 pounds by the time I'm done. With my stereo equipment it'll be an addition 400 - 500 pounds or so in the car overall.
****
bart2546,
Thanks

****
One more note... I use a TON of aluminum tape as well. I like to cover all the seams of the deadener and the tape also adds rigidity to the panels. This is especially handy since Edead V1SE(2) is not very rigid on it's own due to the metallized mylar backing. Other deadeners like Peel & Seal and Damplifier use an aluminum backing material for more rigidity.

* Battery wiring coming together. 1/0 and 4 AWG battery to chassis grounds, 4 AWG alternator wire, 4 awg factory dist center wire, factory starter wire. All Knukonceptz wiring and terminals. I have two 4 AWG engine block to chassis grounds not pictured.

* The rear floor is moving along. Edead V1SE(2) here.

* Inside one of the hollow side cavities to be filled with foam. I used Peel & Seal in here since it will be forever pressed in there with foam.

* Passenger side cavity is built half way up now. It's getting there.

* Inside passenger side cavity with expanding foam.

* Beginning the driver side cavity.
More pictures from today:

* Aluminum tape "wall" to end the area where expanding foam will be used at the back of the cavity. I have to stop here to allow room to service the tail lights.

* Starting the foam in the rear part of the cavity. I'm going at all faces of the foam at once since I can only do a little at a time in each part.

* One more layer on the front part of the cavity. At the far end you can see I am starting to shape the area with aluminum tape to keep the foam where I want it.

* Rear hatch floor is nearly complete. I just need to cover all the seams with aluminum tape. I have dampening material on the back of my pants from sitting in the tire well doing foam work

* Finally got around to finishing off the rear hatch door and topping it off with Edead V4 Teklite foam. I am not going to fill it with foam as there is too much mechanical latch "stuff" in there that needs to move around.

* Slopping Edead V3 liquid on the plastic panel for the hatch door. Should give it some nice weight... I'll put Edead V4 on top of this side as well so it'll be foam on foam when the panel meets the hatch door.

* I decided I wasn't happy with the under-hood wiring so I added another 1/0 ground -- this one from the battery directly to the engine block. I also added a second 4 gauge wire from the alternator to it's factory location on the distribution center -- the other 4 gauge wire goes directly to the battery from the alternator.

* This is where my 1/0 battery to engine block ground connects. I also have a 4 gauge engine block to chassis ground hooked up here as well as you can see.
----
I'm done for the day today

* Aluminum tape "wall" to end the area where expanding foam will be used at the back of the cavity. I have to stop here to allow room to service the tail lights.

* Starting the foam in the rear part of the cavity. I'm going at all faces of the foam at once since I can only do a little at a time in each part.

* One more layer on the front part of the cavity. At the far end you can see I am starting to shape the area with aluminum tape to keep the foam where I want it.

* Rear hatch floor is nearly complete. I just need to cover all the seams with aluminum tape. I have dampening material on the back of my pants from sitting in the tire well doing foam work


* Finally got around to finishing off the rear hatch door and topping it off with Edead V4 Teklite foam. I am not going to fill it with foam as there is too much mechanical latch "stuff" in there that needs to move around.

* Slopping Edead V3 liquid on the plastic panel for the hatch door. Should give it some nice weight... I'll put Edead V4 on top of this side as well so it'll be foam on foam when the panel meets the hatch door.

* I decided I wasn't happy with the under-hood wiring so I added another 1/0 ground -- this one from the battery directly to the engine block. I also added a second 4 gauge wire from the alternator to it's factory location on the distribution center -- the other 4 gauge wire goes directly to the battery from the alternator.

* This is where my 1/0 battery to engine block ground connects. I also have a 4 gauge engine block to chassis ground hooked up here as well as you can see.
----
I'm done for the day today
Trending Topics
Planned Equipment:
JVC KD-AR8500 Head Unit
Rockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 Processor
DLS Iridium 6" midrange and 1" tweeter in kicks
Aurum Cantus 6.5" Midbass (not 100% on this yet)
2x Sundown Audio SAX-100.4 on the fronts
2x Stereo Integrity Mag D2 12" Woofers (ported)
2x Sundown Audio SAZ-1500D (possibly 3000D prototype)
Duralast Gold 625 CA Battery Under Hood
Duralast 1000 CA Battery in the Back (already had this laying around)
DEKA Intimidator Deep Cycle Battery
* Yep, three batteries.
* HO Alternator coming later on
Knukoncepts Power Wiring
Tara Labs Speaker Wire and RCA Cables
The only "system" in the car right now is the JVC Head Unit and some Audax 5.25" Coaxials in the doors to make some sound so I can actually drive and not go insane
I already have all of this equipment except for the Tara Labs wiring, the Midbass speakers, and the HO alternator. I've just got ALOT of work to do on installation before it finally makes it's way into the car!
****
I did some more foam work today and put a few more layers of deadener mat on the passenger side door in a few places that didn't feel solid enough for me. Still need to start on the drivers door... but since I have alot of work to do on the door skins anyway I'm in no rush to get that part ready immediatly since it can't go back together yet.
Hopefully my Second Skin Damplifier will get here soon -- since that is what I'll be using to deaden the roof, at which time the headliner is coming out
JVC KD-AR8500 Head Unit
Rockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 Processor
DLS Iridium 6" midrange and 1" tweeter in kicks
Aurum Cantus 6.5" Midbass (not 100% on this yet)
2x Sundown Audio SAX-100.4 on the fronts
2x Stereo Integrity Mag D2 12" Woofers (ported)
2x Sundown Audio SAZ-1500D (possibly 3000D prototype)
Duralast Gold 625 CA Battery Under Hood
Duralast 1000 CA Battery in the Back (already had this laying around)
DEKA Intimidator Deep Cycle Battery
* Yep, three batteries.
* HO Alternator coming later on
Knukoncepts Power Wiring
Tara Labs Speaker Wire and RCA Cables
The only "system" in the car right now is the JVC Head Unit and some Audax 5.25" Coaxials in the doors to make some sound so I can actually drive and not go insane

I already have all of this equipment except for the Tara Labs wiring, the Midbass speakers, and the HO alternator. I've just got ALOT of work to do on installation before it finally makes it's way into the car!
****
I did some more foam work today and put a few more layers of deadener mat on the passenger side door in a few places that didn't feel solid enough for me. Still need to start on the drivers door... but since I have alot of work to do on the door skins anyway I'm in no rush to get that part ready immediatly since it can't go back together yet.
Hopefully my Second Skin Damplifier will get here soon -- since that is what I'll be using to deaden the roof, at which time the headliner is coming out
Using the "great stuff" and I have used it before for the same thing. I have walled off the really close part of the gap around the tire wells with sound dampener so that the expanding foam can't get in there and pop out a panel. I am also doing very thin layers at a time to prevent too much expansion -- I allow 24 hours in between layers.
It can indeed cause a mess if care is not exercises.
It can indeed cause a mess if care is not exercises.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DELPHI »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> What kind of expanding foam did you use? I have seen 'great stuff' foam in tight spaces put alot of pressure on small spotwelds and in a few months, break them.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
you can always get the great stuff for doors and windows. It doesnt expand anywhere close to the same amount so that could be a safer alternative for a starting layer in tight spots. they also make a version of great stuff for large gaps which expands like all hell.
</TD></TR></TABLE>you can always get the great stuff for doors and windows. It doesnt expand anywhere close to the same amount so that could be a safer alternative for a starting layer in tight spots. they also make a version of great stuff for large gaps which expands like all hell.

* Roof Deadening nearly done. Two layers Damplifier with Aluminum tape on all of the seams. I would like to put either Edead V4 on top of that or Second Skin Rattle Pad if the Edead V4 is too thick -- pending some test fitting.

* I got all of those pesky seams taped on the floor. No more butyl material on my pants when I sit in there for a while. Edead is bad to squish out around the seams when you walk / work on it for a while.

* The upcoming rear battery pair. Large DEKA Intimidator 1000 CA deep cycle and a large 94-DL Duralast 1000 CA regular starting battery. I already had the Duralast so I'm using it until it goes out on me.

* Another battery shot. That DEKA battery had a shipping weight of 68 pounds. Very massive beast indeed. I highly recommend remy_battery on e-bay. They used the injection expanding foam type packing around the battery and it arrived in absolutely flawless condition. Any other packing method just won't cut it and they went the extra mile! I will do business with them again whenever I need another large battery!
The total when all is said and done is around $500 - 600 or so just for the deadening products. Sure, it's expensive... but it will improve both my audio performance and my ride satisfaction
$500-$600 on sound deadening for what you've done is honestly not bad at all. Especially considering that would only get you 72 sq ft of dynamat extreme @ retail 
In for more progress

In for more progress

* Front Floor with Interior stripped. You can also see in this picture that the drivers door is deadened as mentioned in my last post. It took lots of vacuuming and cleaning with orange citrus cleaner to get the floor clean... 12 years of dirt, lost coins, etc was under this carpet. I'd really like to re-do the carpeting... the carpet I took out just sucks.

* This is what I got done tonight. I used the last of one of my Peel & Seal rolls and the last of the 90 ft^2 of Edead V1SE^2 that I bought. I've got about 20 ft^2 of Damplifier that I am going to use on the driver's side... I may order some Raamat and/or more Damplifier to finish up along with some more Peel & Seal to tide me over until that gets here.
Joined: Dec 2001
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From: the internet and I WILL STEP ON YOU
lookin good so far
lotta work and detail being put in to do it right...i pmed you, im half-local
not familiar with your products(sundown) is this a sq or spl oriented setup? im sure it could go either way
lotta work and detail being put in to do it right...i pmed you, im half-local
not familiar with your products(sundown) is this a sq or spl oriented setup? im sure it could go either way
The front stage setup is going to be SQ oriented... I'll be using SI Mags for the sub stage, so same there. But it will have the capability to get silly loud... another guy with a small hatch (Aveo) and 2 Mag 12s is doing 150s on music with one of my SAZ-1500D amps per woofer.
Got delayed a bit by running out of deadener and having too much other stuff to do... I'm going to finish up the floor with Peel & Seal before covering it over with Second Skin Heatwave and some Edead V4 Teklite. I can't justify paying freight on some more deadener since I have only a little more space to cover.
I put down some of the extra Edead V3 liquid I had on the drivers side floor
So far we are looking at 155 ft^2 of mat deadener product so far (Edead V1SE^2, Damplifier, Peel & Seal total)... 8 cans of expanding foam... about 5 rolls of aluminum tape... and almost a full gallon of Edead V3 Liquid.
I put down some of the extra Edead V3 liquid I had on the drivers side floor
So far we are looking at 155 ft^2 of mat deadener product so far (Edead V1SE^2, Damplifier, Peel & Seal total)... 8 cans of expanding foam... about 5 rolls of aluminum tape... and almost a full gallon of Edead V3 Liquid.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sundownz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
So far we are looking at 155 ft^2 of mat deadener product so far (Edead V1SE^2, Damplifier, Peel & Seal total)... 8 cans of expanding foam... about 5 rolls of aluminum tape... and almost a full gallon of Edead V3 Liquid.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's it?
I think I have ~ 150sq ft. in my sol, but still want more
So far we are looking at 155 ft^2 of mat deadener product so far (Edead V1SE^2, Damplifier, Peel & Seal total)... 8 cans of expanding foam... about 5 rolls of aluminum tape... and almost a full gallon of Edead V3 Liquid.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's it?

I think I have ~ 150sq ft. in my sol, but still want more
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