Alarm is a bit inconsistent.
Car: 2000 civic si
I juss installed a alarm in my car but the problem is its pretty inconsistent with working...
I know interms of the door triggers, locks, 12v constant, and acc wires they are wired correctly. How do i know this? because when the alarm actually works... everything works fine.
It seems to <U>randomly</U> cut in and out of working. At first i thought it was my power connections because like 90% of the time if i turnd the ignition the alarm would start working (the keyless entry worked) but the alarm brain has a indicator that shows it is recieving power and operational ignition turned or off.
...so now im thinking mayb its my ground. Its not directly on the chassis but i picked a bolt connected to the metal frame/brackets under the dash. It seemed like a good ground to me...but im no pro.
so my question is...is there a way to test if that ground is good or not....or am i better off just looking for another spot. or is it juss some *** alarm that is busted...(got it in china)
I juss installed a alarm in my car but the problem is its pretty inconsistent with working...
I know interms of the door triggers, locks, 12v constant, and acc wires they are wired correctly. How do i know this? because when the alarm actually works... everything works fine.
It seems to <U>randomly</U> cut in and out of working. At first i thought it was my power connections because like 90% of the time if i turnd the ignition the alarm would start working (the keyless entry worked) but the alarm brain has a indicator that shows it is recieving power and operational ignition turned or off.
...so now im thinking mayb its my ground. Its not directly on the chassis but i picked a bolt connected to the metal frame/brackets under the dash. It seemed like a good ground to me...but im no pro.
so my question is...is there a way to test if that ground is good or not....or am i better off just looking for another spot. or is it juss some *** alarm that is busted...(got it in china)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hust1er »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Its not directly on the chassis but i picked a bolt connected to the metal frame/brackets under the dash. It seemed like a good ground to me...but im no pro.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Aren't you the one who bought the $39.99 alarm on eBay?
Anyways... Your ground is inadequate. Secondary grounds are not acceptable.
Scrape some paint off of the kick panel and ground there.
Aren't you the one who bought the $39.99 alarm on eBay?
Anyways... Your ground is inadequate. Secondary grounds are not acceptable.
Scrape some paint off of the kick panel and ground there.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hust1er »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I know interms of the door triggers, locks, 12v constant, and acc wires they are wired correctly. How do i know this? because when the alarm actually works... everything works fine.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
WRONG! Why do people always say this?! I KNOW it's hooked up right, but it doesn't work. If it was hooked up right, it would work. Period. Well, unless it's a crappy brand of alarm.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
(got it in china)
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Oh, you got the alarm in China? Well that could be your problem right there. But back to what I was saying... if it was a reputable alarm, and it was hooked up correctly, then it would work. Very rarely will you encounter a defective alarm from a reputable company. In a sticky linked in the FAQ section, I warn against using any imported alarms. Currently all the good alarms are made in the US and Canada.
Did you solder all connections? Did you verify all connections with a voltmeter? Did you use relays for all inputs/outputs that were listed in mA?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
How do i know this? because when the alarm actually works... everything works fine.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's not right. You KNOW it's connected right when you've verified everything with a voltmeter, double checked it, and then confirmed it by some other method.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
WRONG! Why do people always say this?! I KNOW it's hooked up right, but it doesn't work. If it was hooked up right, it would work. Period. Well, unless it's a crappy brand of alarm.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
(got it in china)
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Oh, you got the alarm in China? Well that could be your problem right there. But back to what I was saying... if it was a reputable alarm, and it was hooked up correctly, then it would work. Very rarely will you encounter a defective alarm from a reputable company. In a sticky linked in the FAQ section, I warn against using any imported alarms. Currently all the good alarms are made in the US and Canada.
Did you solder all connections? Did you verify all connections with a voltmeter? Did you use relays for all inputs/outputs that were listed in mA?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
How do i know this? because when the alarm actually works... everything works fine.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's not right. You KNOW it's connected right when you've verified everything with a voltmeter, double checked it, and then confirmed it by some other method.
ill redo my grounds
...n yes i soldered my connections and checked them with the voltmeter.
i didnt use any relays for the listed connections, but id like to know if i should.
how can i tell if a specific connections are listed mA?
...n yes i soldered my connections and checked them with the voltmeter.
i didnt use any relays for the listed connections, but id like to know if i should.
how can i tell if a specific connections are listed mA?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hust1er »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how can i tell if a specific connections are listed mA?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Because the poorly translated instructions will say "250mA" or "500mA" on that particular wire in the diagram.
Because the poorly translated instructions will say "250mA" or "500mA" on that particular wire in the diagram.
iight...well everythings workin fine now.
Ive read the faq:
"Glass breakage
Use this sensor or a motion sensor, but not both."
now my next question is which sensor is more recommended. Seein that the glass breakage sensor is cheaper i was leanin toward that...but i would get the motion/prox sensor if it was better.
Ive read the faq:
"Glass breakage
Use this sensor or a motion sensor, but not both."
now my next question is which sensor is more recommended. Seein that the glass breakage sensor is cheaper i was leanin toward that...but i would get the motion/prox sensor if it was better.
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