My Second Teg Build Thread
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Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Apr 2008
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From: The Rising Sun, Ontario, Canada
My Second Teg Build Thread
This is my second teg. Just posting up from where it all started and how it sits now.
The Car When I bought it:
Bought it in early November or late october I think (don't quite remember) and stored if for winter right away.
The Parts:
Buddy Club N+ Dampers with Upper Pillow Ball Mounts
5 Bolt Conversion, taken apart, rust removed, all parts powdercoated. The Trailing arms were a bit worse so ended up ordering Brand New Trailing Arms from the dealership.
Skunk2 PRO Plus Front Camber Kit, BRAND NEW OEM JDM Front 24mm & Rear 23mm Sway Bars with brand new bushings, d-brackets & end-links for Both.
Spoon Calipers, Skunk2 Pro Rear Lower Control Arms (Gold) , JDM Optional Intersection Lights
SSR Reverse Mesh Wheels. 15X7.5 All around. +20 Front +7 Rear.
Beaks Rear Lower Tie Bar
EBC Slotted and Dimpled Rotors for front and Back (Obviously ITR Set-up)
Special Ordered ASR Subframe Brace (Red)
The Pics says it all for this one.
Hawk HP+ Brake Pads
Picked up some OEM Parts from the Stealerhip Today. All underbody suspension nuts, bolts and washers, ITR Rear Calipers, Trailing Arms, Wheel Bearings and other Miscellaneous stuff for a proper build.
OEM ITR Optional Side skirts and Rear Valences (No replica ****. Replicas FTL!)
And finally the JDM ITR HID Front-End with a Brand new JDM parking pole (JDM Points YO!) LOL
Russell SS Stainless Steel Braided Lines FTW!
ARP Extended studs with Buddy Club open ended lug nuts.
Driver's side and passenger side rear trailing arms, control arms and suspension are off.
Everything is OFF!
Passenger side; again everything off. Just have to remove the e-brake cables.
Now, this bolt is acting up. Major work to do on this bitch.
The FUGLY OEM Exhaust and tiny little sway bar lol
And ... Babby Got ***
All brand spankin new nuts, bolts, washers, caliper seal kits, bearings, rear calipers and trailing arms and a lot more miscellaneous seals, rings, washers, pins etc. Basically every single rusted part for suspension will be replaced.
This pile looks a lot bigger in person, everything is stacked up on each other lol but ...meh
The Rear Calipers (NISSIN)
The Trailing Arms (OEM Honda):
Removed the driver's side shock & fork and unbolted the control arm (driver's side only). Unbolted the brake lines for both sides and some sensor wires. Tried removing the e-brake cables but couldn't get them out. I doubt if I have to remove the carpet or just remove the shield to access the grommet from underneath the car. Cables are all unbolted though, just need to pull them out.
I bought the USDM 5 lug wasn't happy with all the rusted parts. Got pissed off and took everything apart. Got some guy to get rid of the rust and powdercoat everythnig. He said he couldn't get rid of the rust from some areas so I got paranoid and picked everything new. Will throw a coat of that anti-rust rubberized oil paint on these parts. Plus I thought since I'm doing the 5 lug, why not just do it proper. Having old *** rusted parts on the most important part of the car isn't my thing.
Some hate it, other love it. But I could care less because I like it.
Just picked the second order of the OEM Parts.
The Control Arms
Energy Suspension Bushings
The Forks
The Knuckles
More nuts, bolts, washers, pins
Tie rods and end sets.
Removed the rear seats, pulled up the carpet and removed the e-brake cable for the driver's side. Couldn't access one bolt on the passenger side so left it for tomorrow as it started to get dark. Cut out one seized bolt which was a bitch to access and took me more than an hour.
Other than that I just worked on painting the hubs.
Before:
While working on sanding the rust down a bit:
Gave the new new trailing arms a bit of anti-rust coating.
New Bearings Installed, New Shields and the Knuckles which came with New Ball Joints as you can tell from the plastic caps.
ARP's Installed
ARP's on the Rear Hubs
Here are some pics of the stuff installed. Had to do the large sized pics because the bolts won't show
Rubberied Undercoating after a total clean-up.
Front Knuckle
With Skunk2Pro+ Camber kit installed
The parts being painted with anti-rust before installation
The Rear Trailing Arms
The Rear
Skunk2 Pro Rear Camber Kit
Test Fitting the wheels at like 4 am ....
With over 30 hours of work period and 9 hours of sleep ..... I think all this work paid off. Suspension WORK IS A BITCHH. If my brother wasn't there to help me out I would'nt be finish within two days lol. He wanted some experience on workin on a car because he got the other one for no work done.
Some more OEM parts: Type R e-brake cables, busings, new brake oil bolts, some more type r bushings etc.
Type R Compliance bushings just came in. They were on backorder but came in early so on with the removal again ...
And now finally the way the car sits.
I can hazzz 3 wheeelin'.
CF Hatch Installed
Posting up the list of all the OEM parts I picked up. I had been making this list for weeks and it consumed so much time. It's not as easy as it looks though.
It can be a reference for people as well. Subscribe or Bookmark lol. Contains corresponding part numbers to the item numbers in pics. If you're replacing each and every bolt, refer to the quantity that's posted in my list; that's the quantity required. Most of the part #'s were the same for DC2's and 4's but I've listed the one's that were required from an ITR and the one's from non-ITR.
Front Brake
004 - 44300-S5A-008 [BEARING ASSY., FR. HUB (NTN CORP.)] 2 PCS.
021 - 45255-ST7-R00 [SPLASH GUARD, FR. BRAKE] 2PCS.
023 - 90107-SM4-000 [BOLT, CALIPER MOUNTING (12X21)] 4 PCS.
025 - 90681-SR3-A00 [CIRCLIP, SPECIAL (INNER) (79)] 2 PCS.
026 - 93600-06014-0H [SCREW, FLAT (6X14)] 4 PCS.
027 - 93892-05012-08 [SCREW-WASHER (5X12)] 6 PCS.
Front Lower Arm
ITR Parts
005 - 51312-SD4-020 [RUBBER, STABILIZER END] 4 PCS.
010 - 51395-ST7-Z01 [BUSH, R. FR. COMPLIANCE (TO)] 1PC.
011 51396-ST7-Z01 BUSH, L. FR. COMPLIANCE (TO) 1
Parts from 99 LS
006 - 51320-ST7-003 [LINK ASSY., FR. STABILIZER] 2PCS.
007 - 51350-ST7-010 [ARM ASSY., R. FR. (LOWER)] 1PC.
008 - 51360-ST7-010 [ARM ASSY., L. FR. (LOWER)] 1PC.
009 - 51392-ST7-013 [BUSH, FR. ARM (LOWER)] 2PCS.
012 - 51398-SR3-000 [WASHER B, FR. RADIUS ARM (14MM)] 2PCS.
013 - 51399-SR3-010 [WASHER A, FR. RADIUS ARM (18MM)] 2PCS.
014 - 51810-SH3-004 [BUSH, SHOCK ABSORBER (YAMASHITA)] 2PCS.
015 - 51811-SR3-010 [FORK, R. FR. FORK 1PC.
016 - 51821-SR3-010 [FORK, L. FR. FORK] 1PC.
019 - 90118-SR3-003 [BOLT, SELF-LOCK (12X76)] 2PCS.
020 - 90120-SB0-003 [BOLT, RR. SHOCK ABSORBER LOCK (10X42)] 2PCS.
021 - 90162-SR3-000 [BOLT, FLANGE (14X60)] 2PCS.
022 - 90164-SR3-013 [BOLT, SELF-LOCK (14X34)] 2PCS.
023 - 90168-SR3-000 [BOLT, FLANGE (14X35)] 2PCS.
024 - 90175-SH3-005 [BOLT, DAMPER FORK] 2PCS.
025 - 90213-SR3-013 [NUT, SELF-LOCK (14MM)] 2PCS.
026 - 90215-SB0-003 [NUT, SELF-LOCK (12MM) (SATO RASHI)] 2PCS.
027 - 90212-SA5-003 [NUT, SELF-LOCK (10MM)] 2PCS.
028 - 90362-SF1-003 [NUT, SELF-LOCK (8MM)] 2PCS.
030 - 94050-08080 [NUT, FLANGE (8MM)] 2PCS.
031 - 95701-08016-08 [BOLT, FLANGE (8X16)] 2PCS.
004 - 51308-S10-010 [HOLDER, FR. STABILIZER] 2PCS.
Rear Brake
001 - 01473-SV4-000 [CALIPER SEAL KIT] 2PCS.
003 - 42324-SB2-020 [WASHER, HUB UNIT] 2PCS.
004 - 42326-ST7-Z00 [CAP, HUB UNIT] 2PCS.
029 - 43255-ST7-R00 [PROTECTOR, R. RR. CALIPER] 1PC.
030 - 43256-ST7-R00 [PROTECTOR, L. RR. CALIPER] 1PC.
038 - 90103-SN7-003 [BOLT, FLANGE (10X25)] 4PCS.
040 - 90305-692-010 [NUT, SPINDLE (22MM) 2PCS.
041 - 93600-06014-0H [SCREW, FLAT (6X14)] 4PCS.
043 - 95701-06012-08 [BOLT, FLANGE (6X12)] 12PCS.
044 - 43018-S03-Z03 [CALIPER SUB-ASSY., R. RR.] 1PC.
045 - 43019-S03-Z03 [CALIPER SUB-ASSY., L. RR.] 1PC.
Knuckle
002 - 51210-SR3-N10 [KNUCKLE, R. FR.] 1PC.
003 - 51215-SR3-N10 [KNUCKLE, L. FR.] 1PC.
012 - 93412-06012-08 [BOLT-WASHER (6X12)] 16PCS.
013 - 93402-06010-07 [BOLT-WASHER (6X10)] 4PCS.
014 - 90215-SB0-003 [NUT, SELF-LOCK (12MM) (SATO RASHI]) 4PCS.
016 - 90363-SF1-000 [NUT, CASTLE (12MM)] 2PCS.
019 - 94201-30250 [PIN, SPLIT (3.0X25)] 2PCS.
019 -94201-30450 [PIN, SPLIT (3.0X45)] 2PCS.
018 -94201-20220 [PIN, SPLIT (2.0X22)] 2PCS.
018 - 94201-20350 [PIN, SPLIT (2.0X35)] 2PCS.
Rear Lower Arm
011 - 52316-ST7-Z00 [BUSH, STABILIZER END] 2PCS.
016 - 52354-SR3-000 [PROTECTOR, R. RR. ARM (LOWER)] 1PC.
018 - 52364-SR3-000 [PROTECTOR, L. RR. ARM (LOWER)] 1PC.
020 - 52370-ST7-R02 [ARM, R. RR. TRAILING (DISK)] 1PC.
021 - 52371-ST7-R02 [ARM, L. RR. TRAILING (DISK)] 1PC.
027 - 93403-08020-08 [BOLT-WASHER (8X20)] 4PCS.
029 - 90117-SH3-004 [BOLT, ARM (UPPER) (10X30)] 4PCS.
030 - 90120-SB0-003 [BOLT, RR. SHOCK ABSORBER LOCK (10X42)] 2PCS.
031 - 93402-06012-08 [BOLT-WASHER (6X12)] 4PCS.
031 - 93412-06012-08 [BOLT-WASHER (6X12)] 4PCS.
032 - 90171-SR3-003 [BOLT, TORQUE COMPENSATOR (10X59)] 4PCS.
033 - 90172-S04-003 [BOLT, FLANGE (10X68)] 2PCS.
036 - 90174-SJ4-003 [BOLT, TRAILING ARM BUSH (12X60)] 4PCS.
037 - 90175-ST7-Z00 [BOLT, STABILIZER END (8X35)] 2PCS.
038 - 90551-SH3-000 [WASHER (24X10X2.3)] 2PCS.
039 - 94050-08080 [NUT, FLANGE (8MM)] 2PCS.
040 - 94103-10400 [WASHER, PLAIN (10MM)] 2PCS.
046 - 52312-ST7-Z00 [COLLAR, STABILIZER BUSH END (INNER)] 4PCS.
Non-ITR Parts
[Non-ITR's have different bolts for Rear LCA's]
034 - 90173-SR3-003 [BOLT, ARM TORQUE (LOWER) (10X80)] 2PCS.
035 - 90173-SR3-003 [BOLT, ARM TORQUE (LOWER) (10X80)] 2PCS.
Front Shock Mine were Rusted Out
017 - 90304-SR3-014 [NUT, FLANGE (10MM) (OHASHI)] 4 PCS.
Rear Shock Absorber
019 - 90172-SK7-A01 [BOLT, DAMPER (LOWER) (10X84)] 2 PCS.
020 - 90304-SR3-014 [NUT, FLANGE (10MM) (OHASHI)] 4 PCS.
Power Steering Gear Box
001 - 53010-ST7-J61 [END SET, RACK] 2PCS.
003 - 53434-S04-J51 [CLIP, STEERING TIE ROD] 2PCS.
013 - 53540-S04-013 [END, R. TIE ROD] 1PC.
016 - 53560-S04-013 [END, L. TIE ROD] 1PC.
021 - 94030-10080 [NUT, HEX. (10MM)] 2PCS.
024 - 94002-14280-0S [NUT, HEX. (14MM)] 2PCS.
025 - 94201-20350 [PIN, SPLIT (2.0X35)] 2PCS.
A few more pics of the build.
And a quick pic of my other teg that I gave away to my younger brother on his birthday. He just uses it for commuting. It's still around the scene though. It's getting a 5 lug soon, as I have a spare set sitting at home.
Did a little DIY. EDM Fog Installed. Yeah I know it's supposed to be on the side where the driver sits bla bla bla ... whatever. I like it on the passenger side so it stays there.
iPhone pics FTL!
The Car When I bought it:
Bought it in early November or late october I think (don't quite remember) and stored if for winter right away.
The Parts:
Buddy Club N+ Dampers with Upper Pillow Ball Mounts
5 Bolt Conversion, taken apart, rust removed, all parts powdercoated. The Trailing arms were a bit worse so ended up ordering Brand New Trailing Arms from the dealership.
Skunk2 PRO Plus Front Camber Kit, BRAND NEW OEM JDM Front 24mm & Rear 23mm Sway Bars with brand new bushings, d-brackets & end-links for Both.
Spoon Calipers, Skunk2 Pro Rear Lower Control Arms (Gold) , JDM Optional Intersection Lights
SSR Reverse Mesh Wheels. 15X7.5 All around. +20 Front +7 Rear.
Beaks Rear Lower Tie Bar
EBC Slotted and Dimpled Rotors for front and Back (Obviously ITR Set-up)
Special Ordered ASR Subframe Brace (Red)
The Pics says it all for this one.
Hawk HP+ Brake Pads
Picked up some OEM Parts from the Stealerhip Today. All underbody suspension nuts, bolts and washers, ITR Rear Calipers, Trailing Arms, Wheel Bearings and other Miscellaneous stuff for a proper build.
OEM ITR Optional Side skirts and Rear Valences (No replica ****. Replicas FTL!)
And finally the JDM ITR HID Front-End with a Brand new JDM parking pole (JDM Points YO!) LOL
Russell SS Stainless Steel Braided Lines FTW!
ARP Extended studs with Buddy Club open ended lug nuts.
Driver's side and passenger side rear trailing arms, control arms and suspension are off.
Everything is OFF!
Passenger side; again everything off. Just have to remove the e-brake cables.
Now, this bolt is acting up. Major work to do on this bitch.
The FUGLY OEM Exhaust and tiny little sway bar lol
And ... Babby Got ***
All brand spankin new nuts, bolts, washers, caliper seal kits, bearings, rear calipers and trailing arms and a lot more miscellaneous seals, rings, washers, pins etc. Basically every single rusted part for suspension will be replaced.
This pile looks a lot bigger in person, everything is stacked up on each other lol but ...meh
The Rear Calipers (NISSIN)
The Trailing Arms (OEM Honda):
Removed the driver's side shock & fork and unbolted the control arm (driver's side only). Unbolted the brake lines for both sides and some sensor wires. Tried removing the e-brake cables but couldn't get them out. I doubt if I have to remove the carpet or just remove the shield to access the grommet from underneath the car. Cables are all unbolted though, just need to pull them out.
I bought the USDM 5 lug wasn't happy with all the rusted parts. Got pissed off and took everything apart. Got some guy to get rid of the rust and powdercoat everythnig. He said he couldn't get rid of the rust from some areas so I got paranoid and picked everything new. Will throw a coat of that anti-rust rubberized oil paint on these parts. Plus I thought since I'm doing the 5 lug, why not just do it proper. Having old *** rusted parts on the most important part of the car isn't my thing.
Some hate it, other love it. But I could care less because I like it.
Just picked the second order of the OEM Parts.
The Control Arms
Energy Suspension Bushings
The Forks
The Knuckles
More nuts, bolts, washers, pins
Tie rods and end sets.
Removed the rear seats, pulled up the carpet and removed the e-brake cable for the driver's side. Couldn't access one bolt on the passenger side so left it for tomorrow as it started to get dark. Cut out one seized bolt which was a bitch to access and took me more than an hour.
Other than that I just worked on painting the hubs.
Before:
While working on sanding the rust down a bit:
Gave the new new trailing arms a bit of anti-rust coating.
New Bearings Installed, New Shields and the Knuckles which came with New Ball Joints as you can tell from the plastic caps.
ARP's Installed
ARP's on the Rear Hubs
Here are some pics of the stuff installed. Had to do the large sized pics because the bolts won't show
Rubberied Undercoating after a total clean-up.
Front Knuckle
With Skunk2Pro+ Camber kit installed
The parts being painted with anti-rust before installation
The Rear Trailing Arms
The Rear
Skunk2 Pro Rear Camber Kit
Test Fitting the wheels at like 4 am ....
With over 30 hours of work period and 9 hours of sleep ..... I think all this work paid off. Suspension WORK IS A BITCHH. If my brother wasn't there to help me out I would'nt be finish within two days lol. He wanted some experience on workin on a car because he got the other one for no work done.
Some more OEM parts: Type R e-brake cables, busings, new brake oil bolts, some more type r bushings etc.
Type R Compliance bushings just came in. They were on backorder but came in early so on with the removal again ...
And now finally the way the car sits.
I can hazzz 3 wheeelin'.
CF Hatch Installed
Posting up the list of all the OEM parts I picked up. I had been making this list for weeks and it consumed so much time. It's not as easy as it looks though.
It can be a reference for people as well. Subscribe or Bookmark lol. Contains corresponding part numbers to the item numbers in pics. If you're replacing each and every bolt, refer to the quantity that's posted in my list; that's the quantity required. Most of the part #'s were the same for DC2's and 4's but I've listed the one's that were required from an ITR and the one's from non-ITR.
Front Brake
004 - 44300-S5A-008 [BEARING ASSY., FR. HUB (NTN CORP.)] 2 PCS.
021 - 45255-ST7-R00 [SPLASH GUARD, FR. BRAKE] 2PCS.
023 - 90107-SM4-000 [BOLT, CALIPER MOUNTING (12X21)] 4 PCS.
025 - 90681-SR3-A00 [CIRCLIP, SPECIAL (INNER) (79)] 2 PCS.
026 - 93600-06014-0H [SCREW, FLAT (6X14)] 4 PCS.
027 - 93892-05012-08 [SCREW-WASHER (5X12)] 6 PCS.
Front Lower Arm
ITR Parts
005 - 51312-SD4-020 [RUBBER, STABILIZER END] 4 PCS.
010 - 51395-ST7-Z01 [BUSH, R. FR. COMPLIANCE (TO)] 1PC.
011 51396-ST7-Z01 BUSH, L. FR. COMPLIANCE (TO) 1
Parts from 99 LS
006 - 51320-ST7-003 [LINK ASSY., FR. STABILIZER] 2PCS.
007 - 51350-ST7-010 [ARM ASSY., R. FR. (LOWER)] 1PC.
008 - 51360-ST7-010 [ARM ASSY., L. FR. (LOWER)] 1PC.
009 - 51392-ST7-013 [BUSH, FR. ARM (LOWER)] 2PCS.
012 - 51398-SR3-000 [WASHER B, FR. RADIUS ARM (14MM)] 2PCS.
013 - 51399-SR3-010 [WASHER A, FR. RADIUS ARM (18MM)] 2PCS.
014 - 51810-SH3-004 [BUSH, SHOCK ABSORBER (YAMASHITA)] 2PCS.
015 - 51811-SR3-010 [FORK, R. FR. FORK 1PC.
016 - 51821-SR3-010 [FORK, L. FR. FORK] 1PC.
019 - 90118-SR3-003 [BOLT, SELF-LOCK (12X76)] 2PCS.
020 - 90120-SB0-003 [BOLT, RR. SHOCK ABSORBER LOCK (10X42)] 2PCS.
021 - 90162-SR3-000 [BOLT, FLANGE (14X60)] 2PCS.
022 - 90164-SR3-013 [BOLT, SELF-LOCK (14X34)] 2PCS.
023 - 90168-SR3-000 [BOLT, FLANGE (14X35)] 2PCS.
024 - 90175-SH3-005 [BOLT, DAMPER FORK] 2PCS.
025 - 90213-SR3-013 [NUT, SELF-LOCK (14MM)] 2PCS.
026 - 90215-SB0-003 [NUT, SELF-LOCK (12MM) (SATO RASHI)] 2PCS.
027 - 90212-SA5-003 [NUT, SELF-LOCK (10MM)] 2PCS.
028 - 90362-SF1-003 [NUT, SELF-LOCK (8MM)] 2PCS.
030 - 94050-08080 [NUT, FLANGE (8MM)] 2PCS.
031 - 95701-08016-08 [BOLT, FLANGE (8X16)] 2PCS.
004 - 51308-S10-010 [HOLDER, FR. STABILIZER] 2PCS.
Rear Brake
001 - 01473-SV4-000 [CALIPER SEAL KIT] 2PCS.
003 - 42324-SB2-020 [WASHER, HUB UNIT] 2PCS.
004 - 42326-ST7-Z00 [CAP, HUB UNIT] 2PCS.
029 - 43255-ST7-R00 [PROTECTOR, R. RR. CALIPER] 1PC.
030 - 43256-ST7-R00 [PROTECTOR, L. RR. CALIPER] 1PC.
038 - 90103-SN7-003 [BOLT, FLANGE (10X25)] 4PCS.
040 - 90305-692-010 [NUT, SPINDLE (22MM) 2PCS.
041 - 93600-06014-0H [SCREW, FLAT (6X14)] 4PCS.
043 - 95701-06012-08 [BOLT, FLANGE (6X12)] 12PCS.
044 - 43018-S03-Z03 [CALIPER SUB-ASSY., R. RR.] 1PC.
045 - 43019-S03-Z03 [CALIPER SUB-ASSY., L. RR.] 1PC.
Knuckle
002 - 51210-SR3-N10 [KNUCKLE, R. FR.] 1PC.
003 - 51215-SR3-N10 [KNUCKLE, L. FR.] 1PC.
012 - 93412-06012-08 [BOLT-WASHER (6X12)] 16PCS.
013 - 93402-06010-07 [BOLT-WASHER (6X10)] 4PCS.
014 - 90215-SB0-003 [NUT, SELF-LOCK (12MM) (SATO RASHI]) 4PCS.
016 - 90363-SF1-000 [NUT, CASTLE (12MM)] 2PCS.
019 - 94201-30250 [PIN, SPLIT (3.0X25)] 2PCS.
019 -94201-30450 [PIN, SPLIT (3.0X45)] 2PCS.
018 -94201-20220 [PIN, SPLIT (2.0X22)] 2PCS.
018 - 94201-20350 [PIN, SPLIT (2.0X35)] 2PCS.
Rear Lower Arm
011 - 52316-ST7-Z00 [BUSH, STABILIZER END] 2PCS.
016 - 52354-SR3-000 [PROTECTOR, R. RR. ARM (LOWER)] 1PC.
018 - 52364-SR3-000 [PROTECTOR, L. RR. ARM (LOWER)] 1PC.
020 - 52370-ST7-R02 [ARM, R. RR. TRAILING (DISK)] 1PC.
021 - 52371-ST7-R02 [ARM, L. RR. TRAILING (DISK)] 1PC.
027 - 93403-08020-08 [BOLT-WASHER (8X20)] 4PCS.
029 - 90117-SH3-004 [BOLT, ARM (UPPER) (10X30)] 4PCS.
030 - 90120-SB0-003 [BOLT, RR. SHOCK ABSORBER LOCK (10X42)] 2PCS.
031 - 93402-06012-08 [BOLT-WASHER (6X12)] 4PCS.
031 - 93412-06012-08 [BOLT-WASHER (6X12)] 4PCS.
032 - 90171-SR3-003 [BOLT, TORQUE COMPENSATOR (10X59)] 4PCS.
033 - 90172-S04-003 [BOLT, FLANGE (10X68)] 2PCS.
036 - 90174-SJ4-003 [BOLT, TRAILING ARM BUSH (12X60)] 4PCS.
037 - 90175-ST7-Z00 [BOLT, STABILIZER END (8X35)] 2PCS.
038 - 90551-SH3-000 [WASHER (24X10X2.3)] 2PCS.
039 - 94050-08080 [NUT, FLANGE (8MM)] 2PCS.
040 - 94103-10400 [WASHER, PLAIN (10MM)] 2PCS.
046 - 52312-ST7-Z00 [COLLAR, STABILIZER BUSH END (INNER)] 4PCS.
Non-ITR Parts
[Non-ITR's have different bolts for Rear LCA's]
034 - 90173-SR3-003 [BOLT, ARM TORQUE (LOWER) (10X80)] 2PCS.
035 - 90173-SR3-003 [BOLT, ARM TORQUE (LOWER) (10X80)] 2PCS.
Front Shock Mine were Rusted Out
017 - 90304-SR3-014 [NUT, FLANGE (10MM) (OHASHI)] 4 PCS.
Rear Shock Absorber
019 - 90172-SK7-A01 [BOLT, DAMPER (LOWER) (10X84)] 2 PCS.
020 - 90304-SR3-014 [NUT, FLANGE (10MM) (OHASHI)] 4 PCS.
Power Steering Gear Box
001 - 53010-ST7-J61 [END SET, RACK] 2PCS.
003 - 53434-S04-J51 [CLIP, STEERING TIE ROD] 2PCS.
013 - 53540-S04-013 [END, R. TIE ROD] 1PC.
016 - 53560-S04-013 [END, L. TIE ROD] 1PC.
021 - 94030-10080 [NUT, HEX. (10MM)] 2PCS.
024 - 94002-14280-0S [NUT, HEX. (14MM)] 2PCS.
025 - 94201-20350 [PIN, SPLIT (2.0X35)] 2PCS.
A few more pics of the build.
And a quick pic of my other teg that I gave away to my younger brother on his birthday. He just uses it for commuting. It's still around the scene though. It's getting a 5 lug soon, as I have a spare set sitting at home.
Did a little DIY. EDM Fog Installed. Yeah I know it's supposed to be on the side where the driver sits bla bla bla ... whatever. I like it on the passenger side so it stays there.
iPhone pics FTL!
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 110
Likes: 0
From: The Rising Sun, Ontario, Canada
Re: My Second Teg Build Thread
installed the ARC titanium shift ****. Oh and a NEW STICKER LOL. More updates to come soon sometime around September 12.
Some ARC Love.
Miracle X Cross Bar
Top, Bottom and Butterfly Bars by Next
Clock Block and an OEM Red Shift Boot. More to come.
Hatch visor - CHECK
Red Beaks - CHECK (Gold is done with scraping from one corner)
OEM USDM ITR Red Shift Boot - CHECK
New Wheels - CHECK (What's coming is a surprise)
Custom Rear Diffuser - CHECK
Pioneer Double Din (AVH-P4100DVD) - CHECK
ChaseBays Brake Line Tuck Kit - CHECK
BRAND NEW OEM USDM ITR CF Interior Pieces - CHECK (Only the Climate control is Used JDM) everything else is Brand new OEM and yes I said BRAND NEW
Driver's side vent
Shifter plate with the Integra Static Cling
Ashtray
Cigarette Lighter Housing
Cup Holder Housing
Cup Holder
all brand new OEM USDM ITR
Pics to follow
Just a few updates of how the car sits. Pictures taken at Honda Tech 7 at Toronto.
UPDATES !... 100% real 24 karat gold plated BBS RS 16X9.5. I guess I'll post the pic since people know about them.
Had these wheels for around a year and a half and never really had the time to install them. Things kept taking longer and longer for me to update this thread and finish up everything with the wheels the right way. Anyways most people have seen the pic of the faces. Here's the pic for the rest .... Curious or not. Thanks to everyone for the kind words and appreciation of the work.
For the wheels , they are custom rebarelled BBS RS. So they are 2 piece BBS RS's. No company makes lips big enough for the offset I have so custome work was put into it. No sponsorship discounts or any other external funds were used to finish my wheels. I have received PM's from people asking me what it cost me because they were looking into the same thing but I never really gave them a definite answer. For everyone, to finish off the wheels it cost me around $7500 USD including all costs (rebarelling, wheels themsel, new center caps, 24k gold bolts for the wheels etc) without tires. To all the haters saying oh wtf you could have had a sick motor for that much money. Well hold your horses . A motor is coming. i already have a brand new transmission and a breand new complete head stright from honda for my motor. A lot of things went on with the car. Here's a quick snapshot because the car won't be out this year due to some work being done. But a small update. I'll update other pics from my DSLR when i have time. Iphone pics for now.
1) Battery Relocation - Odyssey Drycell Battery with Universal Password JDM Battery Relocation kit.
2) Battery cut-off switch
3) Remote battery terminals. Wired and connected
4) Brake Line tuck all around. Front and rear with brake booster delete added on a custom wilwood brake pedal.
5) 100% Authentic Mugen Seat S1-R with 100% Authentic Mugen Seat Rails
At last for those who may challenge the authenticity of the gold plated wheels. Here's an iPhone pic right after the electrolysis process. Notice the big tank in the back?
At last this thread is missing a lot of pics which are in my DSLR. Small things like heat shrnked 4 gauge wires, brake line pics, fuse box relocation, pics of my brand new tranny and brand new head, other 24k plated parts. And a lot of other things which i cant even remember
Some ARC Love.
Miracle X Cross Bar
Top, Bottom and Butterfly Bars by Next
Clock Block and an OEM Red Shift Boot. More to come.
Hatch visor - CHECK
Red Beaks - CHECK (Gold is done with scraping from one corner)
OEM USDM ITR Red Shift Boot - CHECK
New Wheels - CHECK (What's coming is a surprise)
Custom Rear Diffuser - CHECK
Pioneer Double Din (AVH-P4100DVD) - CHECK
ChaseBays Brake Line Tuck Kit - CHECK
BRAND NEW OEM USDM ITR CF Interior Pieces - CHECK (Only the Climate control is Used JDM) everything else is Brand new OEM and yes I said BRAND NEW
Driver's side vent
Shifter plate with the Integra Static Cling
Ashtray
Cigarette Lighter Housing
Cup Holder Housing
Cup Holder
all brand new OEM USDM ITR
Pics to follow
Just a few updates of how the car sits. Pictures taken at Honda Tech 7 at Toronto.
UPDATES !... 100% real 24 karat gold plated BBS RS 16X9.5. I guess I'll post the pic since people know about them.
Had these wheels for around a year and a half and never really had the time to install them. Things kept taking longer and longer for me to update this thread and finish up everything with the wheels the right way. Anyways most people have seen the pic of the faces. Here's the pic for the rest .... Curious or not. Thanks to everyone for the kind words and appreciation of the work.
For the wheels , they are custom rebarelled BBS RS. So they are 2 piece BBS RS's. No company makes lips big enough for the offset I have so custome work was put into it. No sponsorship discounts or any other external funds were used to finish my wheels. I have received PM's from people asking me what it cost me because they were looking into the same thing but I never really gave them a definite answer. For everyone, to finish off the wheels it cost me around $7500 USD including all costs (rebarelling, wheels themsel, new center caps, 24k gold bolts for the wheels etc) without tires. To all the haters saying oh wtf you could have had a sick motor for that much money. Well hold your horses . A motor is coming. i already have a brand new transmission and a breand new complete head stright from honda for my motor. A lot of things went on with the car. Here's a quick snapshot because the car won't be out this year due to some work being done. But a small update. I'll update other pics from my DSLR when i have time. Iphone pics for now.
1) Battery Relocation - Odyssey Drycell Battery with Universal Password JDM Battery Relocation kit.
2) Battery cut-off switch
3) Remote battery terminals. Wired and connected
4) Brake Line tuck all around. Front and rear with brake booster delete added on a custom wilwood brake pedal.
5) 100% Authentic Mugen Seat S1-R with 100% Authentic Mugen Seat Rails
At last for those who may challenge the authenticity of the gold plated wheels. Here's an iPhone pic right after the electrolysis process. Notice the big tank in the back?
At last this thread is missing a lot of pics which are in my DSLR. Small things like heat shrnked 4 gauge wires, brake line pics, fuse box relocation, pics of my brand new tranny and brand new head, other 24k plated parts. And a lot of other things which i cant even remember
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From: The Rising Sun, Ontario, Canada
Re: My Second Teg Build Thread
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