Help: Intake cam HARD to rotate, causing t-belt to slip.
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Help: Intake cam HARD to rotate, causing t-belt to slip.
Been up all night finishing Up this work and now I'm stuck. Tools are out and tryin to see if I can get this fixed without stopping.
Just replaced valve seals on all valves with the head off. Also replaced all top end gaskets including the head gasket. The t belt is about 15,000 miles old so it's fairly new. Car ran before I did this. I also adjusted the valve lash and it all is still in spec, .006 on the intake side.
The exhaust side moves smoothly and is having 0 issues.
I have moved the pistons to all be at middle and it's still hanging up. The main spots are on the 1st cylinder (closest to the crank pulley) and the 3rd cylinder from the crank pulley. When the camI lobes go down for those 2, it gets next to impossible to rotate but the other 2 lobes move smoothly.
After attempting startup and it acted up, I removed the valve cover etc, rotated the crank to TDC and looked at the cams. Exhaust was still right. Intake was pointing towards the 1 o clock position.
Dizzy spins freely.
Did I bend some valves? Seems possible. Or is it something else? How can I start to diagnose it without pulling the head back off?
Just replaced valve seals on all valves with the head off. Also replaced all top end gaskets including the head gasket. The t belt is about 15,000 miles old so it's fairly new. Car ran before I did this. I also adjusted the valve lash and it all is still in spec, .006 on the intake side.
The exhaust side moves smoothly and is having 0 issues.
I have moved the pistons to all be at middle and it's still hanging up. The main spots are on the 1st cylinder (closest to the crank pulley) and the 3rd cylinder from the crank pulley. When the camI lobes go down for those 2, it gets next to impossible to rotate but the other 2 lobes move smoothly.
After attempting startup and it acted up, I removed the valve cover etc, rotated the crank to TDC and looked at the cams. Exhaust was still right. Intake was pointing towards the 1 o clock position.
Dizzy spins freely.
Did I bend some valves? Seems possible. Or is it something else? How can I start to diagnose it without pulling the head back off?
#4
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Re: Help: Intake cam HARD to rotate, causing t-belt to slip.
And pointing the correct direction? They're numbered and there are arrows on them that should all be pointing towards the crank pulley side of the engine. If they weren't installed correctly, remove them and inspect them and the cams for damage.
Otherwise, I'd say bent cam? But I've never seen that happen.
Otherwise, I'd say bent cam? But I've never seen that happen.
#6
Re: Help: Intake cam HARD to rotate, causing t-belt to slip.
I've heard of that happening if the cam-cap bolts aren't loosened and tightened gradually and evenly all the way up and back down again.
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Re: Help: Intake cam HARD to rotate, causing t-belt to slip.
the cam just rides on a cushin of oil there is no bearings. but if the dissy is free spinning he snaped the end of the cam off.
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#8
Re: Help: Intake cam HARD to rotate, causing t-belt to slip.
The crankshaft has insert-type bearings, the camshaft does not. The cam bearings are formed by the bare surfaces of the head and the cam-caps.
The oil-film clearance between bearings and cam journals is about .004". Allowable runout is .0006". That's right, .0006", not even one-thou. These clearances are easily upset when you mix up the caps.
Broken camshafts are the usual consequence of upsetting the clearances. I originally missed the free-spinning distributor thing, so I guess the damage is already done.
The oil-film clearance between bearings and cam journals is about .004". Allowable runout is .0006". That's right, .0006", not even one-thou. These clearances are easily upset when you mix up the caps.
Broken camshafts are the usual consequence of upsetting the clearances. I originally missed the free-spinning distributor thing, so I guess the damage is already done.
#9
Honda-Tech Member
Re: Help: Intake cam HARD to rotate, causing t-belt to slip.
Id say pull the timing belt back off and check to see if the crank is lined up at tdc on the oil pump, then put the cams back in with a lil assembly lube, put the caps back on and the belt, redo the timing tention if needed, and start checking the valve lash and rotate all around, take out the spark plugs to turn the motor over much easier, you might not have the motor at tdc or the valves may be to tight. if it rotates smooth after two rotations and eds back up to tdc on the cam gears it should be good, put your plugs back in and vc and start it up and listen if it sound bad in any way shut it off you may have scored cam caps that may need to be lined bored again.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wMMgAHBGcJg
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uy_uR-UoUVQ
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yv3Ed7VL59E
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wMMgAHBGcJg
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uy_uR-UoUVQ
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yv3Ed7VL59E
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