Acura Integra All Integra Except ITR

Code 54 on 96 Integra

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Old Nov 13, 2008 | 05:07 AM
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Default Code 54 on 96 Integra

Well search isn't working for me currently. I have a 96 Integra LS with 233K on it. Runs great. My CEL is on and it's code 54. I read it's something to do with the crank sensor. Can someone help point me in the right direction and what's involved. Thanks
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Old Nov 13, 2008 | 06:07 AM
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Google "hondahookup manuals" and you can download a manual for your car for free. Code 54 is your CKF sensor inside the distributor.
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Old Nov 13, 2008 | 07:24 AM
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Default Re: (neardon)

Cool, thanks. So am I better off replacing the whole distributor?
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Old Nov 13, 2008 | 01:39 PM
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Default Re: (neardon)

Originally Posted by neardon
Google "hondahookup manuals" and you can download a manual for your car for free. Code 54 is your CKF sensor inside the distributor.
, pause,

Code 54 is your CPS sensor, located right next to your oil pump. It is unnecessary and can be bypassed so the ECM/ECU does not make your car run like crap. If you are losing coolant, you may want to check your water pump to see if it is leaking, since it would leak straight down on you CPS sensor and could destroy it.

Here is a thread of how to bypass it, and kinda a DIY by me...

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2291562
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Old Nov 13, 2008 | 01:46 PM
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Default Re: (lmike6453)

Now I'm confused. It is in the dizzy or near the oil pump? The guy I bought the car from actually said a sensor was replaced on that side of the motor and the guy had the whole side apart. I still have the box with the part # on it because he bought it from Acura. So if it is the one near the oil pump and he did replace it why would it still be on? On a side note, my car actually runs perfectly fine, I would never notice the difference if the light wasn't on. Now if I bypass it will the light go out because I need to pass inspecation in this great state of NJ.
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Old Nov 13, 2008 | 05:24 PM
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CPS stands for crank position sensor, which is located underneath the timimg belt cover, next to the oil pump. The other sensor is located in the "dizzy", located on the left side of the head, north of the Vtec solenoid.
By bypassing the ecu to see the sensor, what you are essentially doing is splitting the dizzy's sensor to where the CPS sensor goes. Since the same signal is sent to both pins of the ecu, it thinks your firing is perfect and does not throw an ecu code. You just have to reset your ecu after splicing the wires together. You will pass inspection.
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Old Nov 13, 2008 | 06:01 PM
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Default Re: (lmike6453)

Makes complete sense. So I'll have to follow the DIY in this quote?
Originally Posted by lmike6453

, pause,

Code 54 is your CPS sensor, located right next to your oil pump. It is unnecessary and can be bypassed so the ECM/ECU does not make your car run like crap. If you are losing coolant, you may want to check your water pump to see if it is leaking, since it would leak straight down on you CPS sensor and could destroy it.

Here is a thread of how to bypass it, and kinda a DIY by me...

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2291562

Now just curious, I understand this is an easy fix to it, but on the other end what could be the problem causing this lets say if I did want to fix it?
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Old Nov 14, 2008 | 01:24 PM
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Yes follow my DIY if you ahve obd-2a and refer to pictures from other's DIYS if you can't see what I explain.

You must understand that every Honda before 1996 didn't even have a CPS(if I'm not mistaken, because I never owned one that old). It is an unnecessary sensor that justs verifies timing. You can forget about it and just make sure yours is fine with a timing light and stock crankshaft pulley. If you wanted to "fix" this sensor, you have to replace it and make sure it's not a wiring issue. But if your water pump leaks on the new one, it'll probably blow on the first week lol.

Let us know if you need any more help or get stuck.
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Old Nov 14, 2008 | 05:58 PM
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Default Re: (lmike6453)

Thanks, I have that wonderful starting year of 96, lol. Really appreciate the help, I'll post how it works out and if I pass inspection.
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Old Nov 14, 2008 | 06:10 PM
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Default Re: (lmike6453)

One quick question after I read over the DIY. I cut C1 all together. Take the C1 and put to C4. Than put C11 and C14 together or cutting C11 and putting to C14?
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Old Nov 15, 2008 | 04:28 PM
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C11 and C14 have to be grounded from the ECU, so you can safely connect those 2(4 wires in total once you cut) to each other.

C1 needs to be cut a few inches from ECU(blue wire), and from the ECU it should only touch C4. Not the other end of itself that you snipped.

Make sense?
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Old Nov 15, 2008 | 06:24 PM
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Default Re: (lmike6453)

Here's a picture of what I think is going on, lol.



Now you say blue wire which is C1 but from the ffsquad picture c1 is blue/red and c2 is blue
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Old Nov 16, 2008 | 06:44 AM
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Perfecto. Use the pinout if you are unsure of colors.
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Old Nov 17, 2008 | 07:59 AM
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Just wanted to follow up. Just did the bypass today and so far so good. Hopes this helps someone in the future
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