Ok, I think I jumped the ecu, but Im not sure. This is what I did- went under dash, looked for green rubber thing, pulled blue two hole plug, stuck one end of a paper clip in one hole, and the other end in the other hole. Turned car to run, check engine light burns for a 2 seconds (long) , goes off, the burns for 1 second (short). So is that 1 or 11? Then what the hell do those mean?
gmoore

 

Ok, I checked my Haynes manual ( I know, Im cheap ) and it says code one is oxyegn content. Ok....so now my car is a geriatric or what? I'm guessing its most likely a faulty sensor, but if its not...my s/c is messed up....my intake is messed up.....my throttle rotor did something? I don't know. What do you think?
gmoore

 

Wait a minute, thats for obd1, my 99 teg is obd 2 isnt it? So how am I supposed to tell by the number of flashes?
gmoore

 

You are obd2. The check engine codes are here http://www.batauto.com/acura/96-02int.shtml

I would verify it in my helms, but I don't know where the hell they are in there I used this page the last time I had a problem also. Looks like dead o2 sensor. Check the connections. You can also try swapping the two of them, resetting the ecu and seeing if the it fails for the second sensor instead. Oxygen sensors are supposed to only be good for 50k miles. I have never had one go dead yet though.

 

Hey while you have that manual out check how the color schem is suppose to go for the primary O2 sensor heated that is attached to the header, you will be my hero if you can tell me this with confidence.

 

I found the MIL's Helms needs an index.

Color scheme shows white, green/black, yellow/black, black/white.

Here is a pic

 

vteg,

You are the man thanks a lot for coming through. Do you think that applies to a 01 gsr, I think it does but just want to make sure. That's a big help. If you ever need any help IM me.

 

dont you just love it when everything goes so smoothly...

 

HA! Well that was a huge help from vteg, but it will be interesting to see if that damn engine light goes off tomorrow and if there will be a good connection between the male and female. I don't see why it won't.

 

No problem. I was hoping it would come out ok. I own an expensive *** camera, and no scanner Macro works well though.

 

bump , glad you guys got your problems fixed but i'm still in the blue. One o2 sensor is in the header and one is in the cat right? And the codes for ob2 are weird ***, so how am I suppose to deduce those codes from how many times the light flashes?
gmoore

 

Hey Man I'm in the same boat as you are in. Although I'm ******* around with connections of the o2 sensor in the header. and yes there are two sensors. one in the cat and on in the header.

Is this the right connection???

 

I dont think so, one of the posts up there ^^^^ says there is a yellow connection too. But idk. Anyone more input?
gmoore

 

The schematics from helms are plug side. He is trying to get the O2 sensor in the correct plug. If you want instead of reversing them, you can just buy a new sensor also. I would pull the connection and reconnect it first though and reset the ecu, just to make sure. I am cheap like that

 

Ok so i resetted the ECU and then the engine light goes off and I drive away to work, then when I'm driving to work and look down there and see it has come back on again. WTF, but here's the interesting part I think it's in correctly, because I was driving with a warm-hot engine and the engine light didn't come on immedatley, it came on after about 2-3 mins of driving normal. Also yesterday when the engine was ideling that tac would drop to 600-500 rpms Now it's staying at a constant 700 rpms when it idels and that's normal correct.

 

Green and white are backwards on your connections. I have just spent too long under my car. Got all my rattles. Now my cat to exhaust gasket is blown I am tired of fixing crap.

I think the reason for the confusion is helms shows the scheme from the ecu side. The plug going into that will be backwards since you are on the other side. Hopefully that made sense.


[Modified by vteg, 3:09 PM 10/13/2002]

 

ok I think that made sense and I was going to try that, by putting the green and white on the other side. BTW my black wires don't have any indication of which one is the white and yellow.

 

I can not figure out the black ones either. I looked at my sensor. They both look alike. Judging by the helms you will probably get a code if they are backwards. After switching the green and white, if you get another mil switch the black ones. Then you should be fine.

Prong 3 (black) is a ground. Prong 4 (black) is the heater control and leads back to the ecu.