sand0

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RgiDnnBZo4A

Can any one tell me what is wrong? Bad ECU?

Stock H23A DOHC VTEC bluetop JDM 200p.s. stock ECU stock Trany stock dizzy, intake.. all is stock.

4-2-1 stock + cat to the end stock odyssey 1997 exhaust system.
Ody 97 O2 sensor 1 (No O2 sensor in this H23A)
Ody exhaust pipe is 42mm diameter (as the original H23A I think) even tough it seams small.

Brocken knock sensor. Replaced with some fake one.

Ok I have low power, slow throttle response.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eva_ZMXJGtc

DCFIVER

What do you mean long term is not compensating? I cant see the vid clearly (My monitor may be too small) But long term does not compensate regularly. It is the overall fuel strategy and only changes every 15 mins or so only IF it is necessary. Otherwise ill will not change much at all.

sand0

hmm. Wherever I read it is like compensating all the time.

Then why my short is bigger than 1 ?? What cause it? And why the ECU isn't fixinit ?

DCFIVER

You read wrong. Short term how ever is constantly changing. Bigger than 1 what? It does not stay at any one number. On a normal running engine it should be switching back and forth between -3%to 3% at idle.

sand0

Well on HDS the table is in digits not %

The service manual also says for long term:
"Long term fuel trim is computed from short term fuel
trim and indicates changes occuring in the fuel supply
system over a long period.
If long term fuel trim is higher than 1.00, the amount of
injected fuel must be increased. If it is lower than 1.00,
the amount of injected fuel must be reduced."

but As You can see Long term is 1.08 all the time

I'm new on this I wasn't going to learn it but I hate to not feel 200hp when I put 200hp in my ody.

My J35A4 is twice as fast. dam.

So do my log look normal? If so where the hell is my horses?

A Blue Lude

I'd expect a J35 to feel faster

The log looks okay. The O2 sensor seems to be working normally and your AFRs seem okay, to the extent that they can be inferred. Was that all in neutral? The trims seem to behaving okay unless they're way out of spec. LTFT does not need to be 1. I wouldn't expect it to change in that sort of timeframe.

A broken KS could cause the engine to feel crappy.

You're using a H23A ECU? Those late model JDM Accords do some weird stuff, although maybe that's early enough to at least get an OBD2Aish one.

sand0

Yep I'm using H23A ECU the original one.
All is stock noting changed. The transmission came with the engine too.

So it is auto 200hp 1600kg Odyssey 0-100 in 12sec. Too SLOW!!
the 2000kg ODY is 7.3 to 100

I dpn't realy don't know where to go now.

Exhaust is small?? 42mm diameter. But then again I read that the accord SIR is 42 to.
Deaf fake knok??
FPR??

What can cause this loss of power?

A Blue Lude

The exhaust is probably more restrictive than the one Honda specified for the 200PS Accord wagon. I doubt it was 42mm.
You could drop it if you really wanted to see if the engine comes alive.

So much could cause a lack of power though. If the ECU thinks it sees knock, not enough fuel, bad ignition/coil etc.

DCFIVER

Perhaps it is looking at the trims in terms of Lambda. In that case it would appear you are lean. This would correlate to the service manual info you posted.

sand0

Okie. My 03 J35A4 Ody STFT is perfect it is gravitating around 1.
But the small ody with H23A blutop is 10% leaner (1.1)

So I'll start to look for the possible reasons for that.

this one is good reading for beginning.
http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/092006_11.pdf

DCFIVER

Yes Motor is a good magazine. I get them every month!

A Blue Lude

Closed loop operation seems normal based on the O2 sensor feedback so I wouldn't worry about your LTFT values excessively. It exists so it can be a non-zero number and help the engine run correctly.

If you had pegged it and the O2 sensor was out of authority (stuck lean or rich) then I'd worry more.

sand0

A Blue Lude what You mean? this is my O2S1 form the ODY (there was two).
And is not the one that is coming from ACCORD SIR H23A.
However when I switch to LPG my STFT is perfect (on idle) but on gas it is 1.11 (11% from 1) (i.e. 11% up)
Test of O2 show 32times closed loop from 0.1V to 0.9V I guess the O2 is ok.

Is it possible that I ****edUp with the PCM? as there was some errors till I wire it right

A Blue Lude

Yeah, you should only care about the one that is before the catalytic converter.

I think the Accord PCM is still going to use a narrowband sensor so you should be OK.

Can't help you with LPG! I would get the car running straight on gasoline first before worrying about LPG.

Looks like it

I have a JDM Accord PCM in my garage somewhere from my engine swap. Those things are a bit scary - I would have never tried to make it work

sand0

It is super easy. Just need to rewire some informative wires. And leave the auto transmission.
(LPG stoichiometric A/F = 15.8)


http://www.odyclub.com/forums/showth...hreadid=117012

DCFIVER

This is a misunderstanding of fuel trim. The LTFT is more important than STFT,because it is the authorative determing factor in fuel control. It oversees STFT values and will adjust STFT keep it in stoich. STFT will almost always read normal because it is a representative number of the engines' operating condition in real time, while LTFT is the overall fuel strategy. O2 readings are a direct correlation of STFT values.

A Blue Lude

Yeah, looks like fun

What is injecting the LPG? The O2 sensor should have enough authority to deal with a 1 point swing in AFR for a fuel with a similar volume to gasoline, but that's not going through the stock injectors, is it?

Anyway, there are a whole lot of things that could be causing low power? Make sure your O2 sensor shows "rich" under heavy load, make sure your base ignition timing is good, try compression testing the motor if you're running out of ideas....*shrug*

A wideband oxygen (lambda) sensor will tell you if your fueling is good under load (which seems to be the main point of this thread), if you can borrow one of those or know someone with one (like a dyno shop).

If you're that smart with wiring I really don't know how to help you with anything else, to be honest

sand0

Ok. Today I run it manualy from 1st to 2nd (to 100km/h (60Mph)) and there is some good power.
But when I'm in D4 the power is not there.

What could be the problem? I checked and it downshift but may be not in the rigt moment??
There is big LAG when I press to WOT.

sand0

Ok the problem is that there is no KICKDOWN. When in D4 it downshift just ONE gear down not TWO
Any suggestions?

Bad ECU?