chriscool888

just finished my tubo setup in my 91 integra, has a turbonetics wastegate, front mount intercooler, garrett turbo from old saab.48, does have BIG charge piping, like 3 inch piping, removed internal wastegate and welded it shut,no bov, the wastegate came off an integra hitting like 5 psi, but my turbo wont even build 1psi to open the wg, it spins good at idle and spins faster as it revs but isnt building boost. have a chipped ecu im putting in in a couple days, can anyone tell me why im not building boost? i can hear my turbo when i get on it, it sounds like a deisel truck but no blow off?

rich7777

Check the wastegate isnt some how stuck open or opening easy (try pushing the valve up with your fingers) Check for boost leaks to.

SynTeg

Sounds like one of your charge pipes is disconnected.

calboi

they have covered both things i know of already wastegate open or missing fire ring or ic piping not on somewhere

rich7777

Please re-word correctly what you have just put. I havent got a clue what your on about.

SQ is the SQUAD

post pictures...........

how are you vacuum lines hooked up

chriscool888

the wg isnt opening at all, the charge piping is all hooked up with no leaks, ill post pictures soon.

MoreCowbell

Take the turbo off and insPect the flapper on the internal wastegate. Make sure it's closed all the way. Once got a install done at automod racing in Lancaster and the morons didn't even check it. didn't make any boost and I took the owner of the shop for a ride in it and asked him is it making boost? He is like yes but we are both looking at the gauge and its reading only in vacuum. So it took me a few hours at first to undo it since I was noob at the time.. Seen the issue and once fixed the car was making boost

Automod -1
Me +1

chriscool888

well the wastegate isnt welded shut yet but even when i hold the flapper shut it still wont hit boost?

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

how are you holding the flapper shut and driving the car to build boost? i know its a tiny saab turbo but still it boost with a load on the motor not free reving

Schister66

1. Boost leak
2. Exhaust leak (wastegate or otherwise)
3. Turbo is too large to get into boost with the load/tuning/fuel/timing/etc setup you have currently

Remove the compressor housing and look for scuffing or scrapes/scratches...the compressor wheel may be slightly off balance and contacting the housing when spooled. This happened to me on the dyno once...a small piece of metal filing lodged in the bearing pack in my S256 and sent it off balance. The compressor wheel would spin, and spin quickly, but wouldn't ever spin fast enough to produce much boost. It made noise like it was pushing air, but in reality we were hearing the progressive contact with the housing. Eventually, the turbo pooped out.... Bullseye got me a new one stat tho

chriscool888

yah i had a lever thing that i rigged up lol to hold it shut, and it was held tight shut but no boost still

Schister66

Is it tuned?
How hard are you pushing it?
How high in the rpm range are you revving under load?


Read #3 above and you'll see why i ask...

chriscool888

im putting a chipped ecu in when i get my obd1 to obd0 distributor converter thats chipped, and the turbo is tiny not too big, no matter how high rpms i go it wont hit boost.

chriscool888

oh and does anyone know why my starter only works half the time with the key, i can usally only start it when i touch the ground and power togther on the starter, u can hear the starter click when u let go of the key after trying to start it...any ideas, this is the second starter thats done this

civickiller

Why you coverting from obd1 to obd0 ?
u sure that rod is holding the flapper tight?
Sounds like brushes gone in solenoid, rebuild or buy new starter

littlewagon

If the starter cranks normal when you apply battery voltage to starter solenoid terminal, then your problem lies with either the electrical portion of the ignition switch or the actual wire between the ignition switch and the starter solenoid.

I have seen this problem a few times on older honda/acura vehicles. The contacts on the ignition switch are worn and build excessive resistance or the wire builds excessive resistance due to age/heat/wear.

Can easily be resolved by wiring in a simple relay near the battery and using the ignition switch wire as the trigger source to supply battery voltage to the starter solenoid only when you turn the key in the ignition switch.

civickiller

if you can hear the solenoid click with the key then that means its getting a signal but not to the starter motor, goes back to what i suggested

2k.civic.si

had the same problem with a borg warner s372 that had just been rebuilt by borg warner....the turbo had so much shaft play it would spin at idle and seemed ok but wouldnt build boost....the turbo was bad and went back to borg warner to be rebuilt again.

racebum

so in other words the car has no tune now?

vwbased

have a nice day

vwbased

have a nice day

littlewagon

When turning the key he may be getting a voltage signal to the solenoid but insufficient current due to high resistance in the ignition switch circuit. This would explain the click sound from the starter but intermittent no crank/slow crank condition. If you manually apply battery voltage to the starter solenoid terminal and the car cranks fine, then you have just isolated the problem. You can easily perform this by just using a piece of wire the same gauge as the starter signal wire and touching one end to the solenoid terminal and the other end to battery positive terminal.

At that point you have just determined the starter is working fine and the issue lies somewhere further upstream. This is most likely the case since he is on his second starter with the same problem.

If you manually apply battery voltage to the starter solenoid terminal and the car still wont crank, then you have isolated the problem to the starter solenoid or motor itself as you have suggested.

chriscool888

haha, i know its like the first thing u would think of checking but i didnt think it would be this easy but my starter fuse was blown, i ended up just wiring up a switch anyways, and my turbo just started leaking oil quite a bit when running it, guessing bad seals and thats why its not hitting boost?

civickiller

wait your starter fuse was blown and it still worked half the time ?