bluejackets92fs

Alright, so long story short; I bought an EK hatch off of a buddy with a spun rod bearing and have decided that I am going to do a turbo build. Instead of getting into micropolishing the crank and everything else that comes with repairing a spun rod bearing, would you recommend just doing an LS build and save myself the time and effort of repairing and then building the Type R motor for boost? I keep reading that the Type R motor isn't ideal for turbo applications and I'm just worried that I'm going to be putting a lot of money and adding a lot of extra steps into this Type R motor to get similar results out of an LS motor. I'm not looking to go crazy but probably somewhere in the neighborhood of 350-400. Thoughts? Keep in mind this is my first "project" car and first boosted car so I'm a little outside of my element. Thanks.

phaphon

Get a new crank and forged Pistons and rods . You won't reach that goal with just a ls or a stock motor .

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

People who say a Type R motor is bad for boost are the same people who are still stuck in the 90's. Regardless, you'll need forged pistons and rods to get to your goal. If you want to keep it cheap, and already have the LS motor, then just get pistons and rods for that, and use the Type R's head on the LS block. If you don't have an LS motor already, then just have the Type R's crank repaired/replaced, get new bearings, and build that motor.

bluejackets92fs

Okay, thanks for the insight.

LightningTeg

Why not put the itr head on the LS?

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

I mentioned that, but if he doesn't already have the LS short block, then cost-wise he'd be better off just getting the ITR motor refreshed and rebuilding it with forged internals.

bluejackets92fs

Yeah, I don't have an LS block so I'm working with a full Type R motor that has a spun rod bearing. I was just curious if there were issues in building a Type R motor for boost or if I was better off doing an LS/VTEC or straight LS build. Since I'm already needing to replace internals on the Type R motor then it makes sense to build it up vs ditching it. More or less I was looking for insight on whether it was a waste of time repairing the Type R motor or if I was better off going a different route before getting too deep in the Type R swap. It sounds like the best bet is to stick with what I have instead of changing the motor around.

blackeg

what you probably should do is put an ls crank in that c5 motor. get some eagle rods for an ls since you have the crank and whatever piston you want that gives you about 10:1 compression. its about 1000 in parts + machine work, give or take for bearings. im certain you wont be disappointed.

bluejackets92fs

That is the one thing I'm still confused on is the cross compatibility of B series parts between other B series motors. I figured that I had to use specific parts for the Type R motor or is it really just the head that is different between the motors? Cause the Type r and B16a (SiR motor) share the same head so I couldn't put a GSR exhaust or intake manifold on my Type R head but you're saying I can use parts for the LS, GSR, or Type R for the block. Am I right in assuming this?

testify

All B series heads fit on all B-series blocks. The GS-R head has a funky intake manifold with a second set of butterflies. You don't want that. Stick to B16A/B and B18C/5 heads.

Just fix the type R motor and buy lower compression pistons.

The only thing that makes the B18C5 less than ideal for forced induction is its sky high compression ratio. If you buy low comp pistons, then its the best B series for boost.

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

LMAO wtf?

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Holy **** testify, it's one thing when you babble your blatantly wrong bullshit in GDD, but in tech? Get out. There's nothing "sky high" about an ITR's compression ratio. 10.6:1 is nothing. The 10:1 to 11:1 range is amazing for boost on pump gas, if you have a tuner worth two *****.

OP, you don't have an LS motor, so don't waste your time or money getting one. Get some quality rods, and some quality pistons, stay close to the stock CR, and rebuild it. Start collecting your turbo parts (if you haven't already), take the car to a reputable tuner, and have them tune it. You'll love the results.

testify

I did not say it couldn't be done, I said it was less than ideal, which it is.

If you think that 10.6:1 c/r is ideal for forced induction, you are either trolling, or ignorant.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

No, I'm just not buried in the decade-old stigma behind compression and boost, which is now defunct.

Back in the 90's, you had two tuning options. You either shelled out a shitload of cash, time, and work for a true stand-alone tuning option, then a shitload more cash and time finding a tuner capable of using it, and willing to do so on a Honda, or you got a VACF/FMU and ran an FMU hack. Back then, the vast majority of people went with the FMU option. When you're talking a couple hundred vs tens of thousands, it's obvious why.

When tuning an engine for power, the #1 goal is to get as much power as you can out of the motor without it detonating. Lower compression gives a higher detonation threshold, meaning the motor can handle more before it starts to detonate. With an FMU, this is important - there's no way to handle individual cylinders, and no realistic way to tell if you're pushing the motor to 99% until you go to 101%, and break something. You just go to 90%, and call it a day.

With the many proper engine management and tuning options available, at extremely affordable prices, it's child's play to push the engine to 90%. Any monkey with a computer can do it. Good tuners can get to 95% safely. The best regularly go to 99.9%, and the engines they tune last YEARS without so much as a hiccup. With an FMU, that jump from 99.9% to 100.1% is half a millimeter with a hex key. With real tuning, the jump from 99.9% to 100.1% is a few, much more predictable, decimal points.

That's just the differences in tuning. Metallurgy has come a long way, too. Go ahead and compare the tolerances and capabilities of a Vitara piston to that of a Wiseco or CP unit. Hint: The Vitaras can't take anywhere near the abuse of what the others can.

Now that we have the "how" covered, let's look at the "why". Do you understand how CR directly affects VE, or how VE directly affects power delivery as well as gas mileage? Here's the simple version for you: Higher CR = better VE = better power + better gas mileage. Period. End of. This is math and physics, it is proven, and it is a constant in our universe.

Higher compression, within the limits of the fuel you're using, is the right way to do it. We aren't in the 90's anymore. We have the technology to push daily driven cars to the limits. To tell someone they should lower their compression for boost is to do a disservice to them, a disservice to these forums, and a disservice to yourself.

Now unfuck yourself and get your **** in this century.

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

Wow.

Gtfo

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Hey hatchy, you think you have your motor to 90%, 95%, or 99.9% of it's capabilities? Just wanna decide if you're a monkey, good, or great This dumbass probably couldn't get past 75%, even with some dumb **** 7.5:1 build.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Even I'm just smh on that one.. I guess my 10.5:1 10 year block just isn't "ideal".. ill take that chance, thank you.

phaphon

Op if you do decide to get a ls crank make sure you get ls rods . The ls crank has a little more stroke to it .

blackeg

and watch the squirters you may want to plug them...all the b series use the same main bearings, so you can swap cranks except for into a b16 i believe due to the short deck height. all you need to do is match the rods to the crank.


i kinda miss the 90's. I was in high school pimping a 4 speed toyota tercel. gas was 89 cents a gallon. i did 30 minutes of work in a 4 hour shift at kmart. my back didnt hurt and i spent every weekend in a mosh pit. i guess im like peaked in high school rob lowe.