dpetro1

egay or the-fan-man.com should be about $115

ahobbs

^^^did you get your fan to come on properly?

dpetro1

not yet, the car "lives" at my mom's house while im about an hour away. tried to work with it last night after voting but got side tracked with a ball joint replacement.

ill update on friday

EDIT: it just occured to me that i am using a SPST relay as opposed to a SPDT relay. i dont think that matters since we arent using the middle prong. any insight on that?

HiProfile

SPST is single pole, single pull. Meaning one input, one switched output. A SPDT has two outputs, normally open and normally closed. Usually a spst is normally open, and giving it's coil power completes the circuit.

dpetro1

so i shouldnt use SPST?

dpetro1

ok im pretty sure i figured it out. im an idiot and under conditions im using -3psi -> 20psi engine load. when i did my conversion i used mmhg not inhg so -3psi only equals like -4inhg. so that condition isnt being met at full vacuum. i will edit settings to something like -15psi so that condition should be met at full vacuum (car off).

EDIT: actually now that i think about it, that might explain it if the fan was not coming on at all. hmm ok back to the relay question

dpetro1

should be getting down to the car in a few hours. can anyone answer the above question. does the type of relay matter?

y7turbo

does not matter. If using the spdt wire the fan to the normally open contact so when the relay is energized it closes the switch. If you hook it up to the wrong terminal the fan will be on when the engine is cold and off when the engine is warm.

good luck

ahobbs

any normal single throw relay is good.

BTW i just drove my car 4hrs and in stop traffic for half that time. it was suppose to take me 2.5hrs to make this trip.

engine temp was 186 the full time even in traffic. IAT went to 120sih just as soon as i started driving they fell back to 99-100 until it became much cooler outside. then they went to 80's

dpetro1

ok guys still no change. no matter what settings i change the fan only comes on if i check "invert output" and turn the key to the "on" position". im really confused.

ahobbs

test

HiProfile

With the invert function turning the fan on, that means the fan/relay/ecu all are working. It would tell me your settings for the conditions are wrong.

1 Psi = 2 inHg. You should have it set to something like -15 psi to 20psi (assuming you only boost to 19psi max). I had some weird issues with output settings getting messed up, and it worked after I started a new map & just redid all the various settings.

Try a fresh map, change the output settings accordingly, and see if it works. Just make sure you set the ECT low enough. I'd warm the car up with the other map, turn off & upload the other map with an ECT condition of 20-30F lower than it is when you upload the map. Fan should come on (with key on, engine off), and turn off when the ECT drops below the condition setting.

ghostofnyc

iTrader: (3)

good info

ahobbs

definantly people forget about cooling a car when it should be your first priority.

dpetro1

UPDATE (finally ) so i got some time to mess with the car some today and just started fooling with the parameters and figured it out that the min engine speed must be greater than zero.

im use to the stock fan running when the car is off so i figured the engine speed could be 0. funniest part is that i started a thread on the hondata forum about this and one of the moderators finally confirmed this a few days ago. it had been so long that i hadnt checked the forum in a while and eventually figured it out on my own.

thanks for all the help guys. this fan is ridiculous and combined with my vented carbon hood i dont expect to have any cooling issues.

Dave_yd

can anyone tell me how you control the fan on the AEM 30-1050 EMS?

ahobbs

good u wont have any problems unless there is another problem

_MARS_

nice!

dpetro1

more updates from me...saw 90* temps yesterday here in MD. car started to warm up slowly on the highway. the spal fan does an awesome job but with the high temps and low flow to the rad the temps started bumping up slowly.

still after about an hour on the highway at 70mph the car hit a max of 203*, cracked the heat on low and dropped to 198*. got off the highway, idling at the first light for about 1 min, temps were already back down to 190* and then 188* for the last 10 min of the trip (country roads at about 40mph)

ps. setup is aftermarket half rad, spal 13" fan turned on at 185* through s300, evo style cf hood.

i am happy with the results but i think temps would have continued to increase on a longer trip so im debating cutting the bumper (like HybridcivicLS-T), grabbing a turbo blanket or just pulling the bumper if needed. the car has stayed rock solid at 186* any other time since i installed the fan back in november

sp00led

I've been putting off this mod for a while. Figured I would see this thread soon as temps were around 88F this weekend in bama. One more item on my list of things to do.

ahobbs

yeah your just missing flow to the radiator. do you have a shroud? People ask me "why" and i always tell them so i can drive the car and not be worried. about creeping temps.
I drove to dallas a few months back took 3hrs and it didnt get above 186

my car doesn't get above 186 for to long. when i boost it may go to 188-192 but it falls very fast.

otherwise it doesn't get above 186. I installed a new turbo with water lines and with the additional heat in the coolant system it still didnt get above 186. but the fan stayed on a little longer than usual and im going to add water wetter sense i added more heat to the system, even though i dont need it.

dpetro1

i do not use a shroud so thats another option. its great peace of mind to see the tunerview dead on 186 all the time. this was the first time ive seen it start creeping up and it wasnt really anything too alarming. just seeing that the fan has the power to drop temps so quickly is amazing to me

i need to add water lines to my turbo too, im interested to see if it plays a big factor in the coolant temps

Scheizty

I am sporting the 13" and I love it. I need to get it shrouded, but it is already doing the job. When it comes on, you can hear it, but it doesn't vibrate the whole car or cause the electrical to flicker. It will only come on for a few seconds which means it is getting the job done, and quickly. I can stick my hand under the sideskirt when the fan kicks in and feel the air moving under the car!

redzcstandardhatch

i was street tuning my buddies EK with a fancy FAL setup. tons of bucks for it.

MAN DID THAT THING SUCK. vibrated like crazy.

m 27 dollar shipped (open box, never used) 16'' spal is AMAZINGLY smooth. fits perfectly on my Scirrocco-style Griffin core radiator

bigD

Question I have a fal fan ran off the stock wiring, it just started blowing a 25 amp fuse everytime it kicks on. I wanted to make sure the fan was still good so ran some 18g wire to the battery just to test it and let the fan run for 10 secs. when I went to remove the neg wire it was so hot it burnt my finger. Would that be from to small of wire or a problem with the fan, any other way to test the fan. I do plan on wiring it up the right way with the relay but wanted to make sure the fan was good first