dtran002

Hi guys,
Currently I am having issue with my bass only kick in at high volume level, and the bass kick in late. I have to turn up the volume and maybe 2 second into it, the bass kick in. But during the music, if the bass of the song is gone and come back, my sub wont kick in for another 2-3 second. The second issue is my capacitor, when my engine is running, the voltage rarely shows above 14v. Usually it stay around 12.7-13.1v. Not sure if this is normal, but my previous cap show around 12v when the engine is off and jumped to 14-14.3v when the engine is on. The model is the Belva BB1D, 1 farad.
My setup is 1 mono alpine amp 300w rms @4ohm, audio control lc2i line converter, 1 farad capacitor and a 10in sub that is roughly 250 watt rms. I am trying to figure out which is the problem first. Thanks all.

NVturbo

Remove that capacitor. For lower wattage setups, you don't need it. What amp are you using? I'm betting it's the amp or the RCA wires.

dtran002

I just switched out another capacitor, same model. The voltage reading is now consistent between 14.2 - 14.4v when the car is running.
Amp: Alpine MRP-M500 500w rms @ 2ohm
Sub: new one, 10' Alpine Type R 4 ohm DVC, advertised as 300-1000w RMS... 500w RMS per coil with 3000w peak ( didn't need that boom boom that can be heard a block away, so I think this is a decent sub)
RCA cable is brand new from Amazon, good reviews. Plus I swapped out couple different types as well. All sounded the same, so I don't know if the RCA would be the cause.

After playing with the audio controller, I think the problem is the audio controller. They have something called the accubass threshold, and if i leave it all the way down, and set their AccuBas and Sub bass at mid level, then my bass is consistent but weak. When I followed their instructions, the bass is good at high volume but cut off when playing at low volume, which is my 90% of the time volume. I'm looking into another LOC and test out but dont know which one support my car. I will be tapped from the oem subwoofer, which I believe the LOC need to handle high wattage? So far, I can only see audiocontroller can do this. This is on the 16' TLX, so it came with a built-in amp.

0c00l

does the line converter have a ground wire? also where are you pulling the signal from for the line converter?

dtran002

Yup, I grounded loc where the amp is grounded. I used the factory sub to get the signal.

0c00l

Sounds like a bad converter then, try swapping it yet?

dtran002

Yup, I did and it is the same lol. The only way I get consistent bass is I set their loc to their default, otherwise it annoying with delay/inconsistent bass. Tried to get support from the seller or audicontroller is a joke! I'm looking into another loc that can support output from the factory amp. The only thing I like about the audio controller is I don't need to run the remote wire from the car to the amp. The unit came with that so it saved me from finding a fuse for that. I found the NVX xploc2, still reviewing how they are before getting my hand to one.

0c00l

well one last thing just to be sure is i would run a signal to the amp from outside the vehicle, like i pod or whatever you got and make sure it doesnt do it then, unless you did that

dtran002

I haven't try that. Thinking of getting the nvx loc and just forget the audicontroller.