In a week or so i will be replacing my Auto-Tensioner ( ), timming belt, water pump and other misc. parts.

Anyways, i will be removing the crankpulley and i wanted to know from those who have done this before whats the best way of doing this. Note that i dont have a car lift and air tools. I will be using a breaker bar and brute force. I know this isnt gonna be an easy task. Specially since the crank bolt has to go back at 181flbs.

Anyone have any advice on how to tackel this project? Everything else after the pulley is a piece of cake.

 

WhoooHoooo! Guess ill be the first to take out the pulley!!

 

seriously dude, its gonna be hard to get that off without an impact gun, not only is the bolt very tight but it is hard to get (ie and extention has to be used if using a breaker bar) which kills your leverage.

 

How far is the bolt in the pulley? Would a deep type socket reach it? Or a atleast a 6" extension is needed? And how about re-torquing the bolt to 181flbs? Your not suppose to use a impact gun so there has to be a way to aply that much pressure to the bolt.

 

I advise a deep socket 19mm with a 1/2" drive. Have a nice long breaker bar and soak the crank bolt with some wd-40 (aerokrol is the best stuff though) and soak the bolt for a while. I usually use the end of my jack for a breaker bar. Just slice a hole in the top rubber coating of the handle and your rachet/breaker bar should fit right in there.

 

You'll never get it off without either the removal tool or an act of god. You'll need at least 1/2 extensions and drives to get enough leverage to snap it loose.

 

I don't know why so many people have problems with this, as long as you have the tool that holds the pulley in place and a couple of breaker bars and the right socket, it's easy. It should be especially easy since you have a lift. I don't have a lift and I broke it free by myself and I'm a weakling.

 

With the tool it is fairly easy if you have 1/2 drive stuff.

 

Has anyone tried this technique....
put the socket on the bolt, put the breaker bar on the socket but position it so it hits the frame of the car.....start the car slightly (not FULLY started) to have the crank break torque.

Sounds crazy right? I know 2 people who've done this with success.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Joon525 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Has anyone tried this technique....
put the socket on the bolt, put the breaker bar on the socket but position it so it hits the frame of the car.....start the car slightly (not FULLY started) to have the crank break torque.

Sounds crazy right? I know 2 people who've done this with success.</TD></TR></TABLE>

This wasnt on a Honda, was it? Had to have been a car that the crank rotated clockwise, unlike the H22. If you hold the bolt still, and hit the ignition, the crank will spin counter-clockwise, therefore tightening the bolt further.

 

I have the special tool that holds the crank still and i have a 2' breaker bar with a 3 foot steel bar to add to it. I dont think getting it off will be a problem, i think re-torquing it will be. How did this process go for you guys?

I have a Craftsman 1/2 drive torque wrench i plan on using. Its about 1.5 - 2' long. 25-250ftlbs.

 

You should be good to go then. Oil the threads of the bolt before reinstallation.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Joon525 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Has anyone tried this technique....
put the socket on the bolt, put the breaker bar on the socket but position it so it hits the frame of the car.....start the car slightly (not FULLY started) to have the crank break torque.

Sounds crazy right? I know 2 people who've done this with success.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes that sounds CRAZY!! I dont think i could ever attempt something like that. Specially with a place as critical as the crank. Could you imagine breaking the bolt in the crank?

I think im just gonna give it some muscle....i just REFUSE to take my car to a mechanic again!! Im fully capable of doing this work, i just never have the time. But since i have 2 weeks off work for christmas, im gonna be doing alot of work on my car.

 

Retorquing should be easy, I have the same torque wrench.

 

Let me show you what you hope doesnt happen....this ******* hurt

http://www.forbiddenmotorsport...y.avi

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4bidden &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Let me show you what you hope doesnt happen....this ******* hurt

http://www.forbiddenmotorsport...y.avi</TD></TR></TABLE>

That sucks, what did you do? Get your fingers caught?

Oh yeah, one more thing. When losening the bolt. It turns counter clockwise, correct? Its not one of those retarded ones that lossen the wrong way. I would hate to tighten the thing down even more.

 

I killed a 1/2 drive and the jolt fucked my wrist up.

It is threaded normal.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4bidden &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I killed a 1/2 drive and the jolt fucked my wrist up.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah...I've done that a few times and it hurts like a bitch

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4bidden &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Let me show you what you hope doesnt happen....this ******* hurt

http://www.forbiddenmotorsport...y.avi</TD></TR></TABLE>

You just happened to get that on video huh?

 

impact wrench.

 

drive ur car to a shop have them shoot it out with a impact and them tell them to torq it back down to 100lb only and drive home easly.
this is what i do when my impact can t take it off and i have a snap on im6100

 

The torque spec is 181 ft-lbs. And again you do not need an impact wrench I just did it again this past saturday with the pulley holder and 2 breaker bars, and the right socket for the bolt and again this was by myself. You don't need an impact.

 

How tight is the fit down there to get the tools in. I was just looking at the area today and there is not much room. I look forward to doing this job!

Ordered all the special tools today and once they arrive my Lude is going to surgery.

 

Remove the splash guard and you have plenty.

 

Pretty cramped to say the least. Water pump was the biggest pain in the *** for me. I had the front bumper off so that gave me a little more room but I was lying under the car I didn't have a lift. When I removed the bolt this past weekend the engine was not in the engine bay so it made it a little more difficult but changing out the belts + water pump was such a breeze.