I've searched, found some interesting topics. Found the wiring diagram from the Renault guy. But, can't find a single wiring diagram/picture/FAQ for hondas (even though it's the same, i don't wanna FUBAR it).

So, here's what I have:
- Longacre 4 pole (2 terminal? either way, it can disconnect two components) Battery Disconnect Switch.

Here's how i hooked it up previously (and obviously ineffective):
- cheapo 2 pole (1 terminal?) disconnect switch
- Cut the positive side wire from the battery and hooked it up to the switch
- the other side was soldered to the old wiring... if the battery was in the engine bay, the wiring that clamps to the battery...
- car runs, turn the switch off, still runs (obviously)
- car off, turn the switch, can't start it, no power whatsoever.

Here are my questions:
- Which wire do i connect to the other terminal on the switch? Is it the big wire that is bolted to the top of the alternator...or is it some other wire?
- What size gauge of wire should i use? I have 10 gauge wire now... will that be sufficient enough to hold the current?
- I've thought about installing a fuse/breaker. I haven't done so yet. Is it necessary or just nice to have?


Sorry for all these repeative questions... but, it's a tech forum, that's what we're suppose to ask! Tired and worn questions! Thanks in advance

 

you have to break the wire going to the alternator (field generating circuit, I believe). I can't remember which wire it is; I looked it up in the Haynes manual to determine which wire that goes to the alt.

good luck

 

Look Here! I like your video clip, good work!

http://forums.improvedtouring.com/it...ML/000297.html
http://forums.improvedtouring.com/it...ML/000281.html
http://www.gatm.com/cars/nx2000/images/pict0214.jpg
http://www.mummbrothers.com/SRF_Stuf...ter_Switch.htm


[Modified by DB1-R81, 1:03 PM 12/26/2002]

 

On my RX-7, I have a 4 pole switch. The battery ground cable is connected to the big poles on the switch. The alternator field wire is connected to the other. On most alternators, there is one wire by itself that is screwed to the alternator; the other wires are bundled in a harness with a multi-wire connector.

 

Thanks! I saw the last three threads being tossed around in several kill switch searches, but the top link probably helped the most! Thanks again!

 

Can the master switch be located in the engine bay if the battery has been relocated to the rear of the vehichle?

 

whats the point of a kill switch being located in the engine bay?

its supposed to be a safety device that is easily accessible.

 

A couple of things as I am looking at mine (it's cold in Pittsburgh) The switch you have is fine. The pair of large terminals are for the battery. The 2 small terminals can be used for either the field or the signal from the ignition switch to the alternator-as Longacre suggests. We did it another wiay- the 2 small terminals are wired to the large White wire coming out of the MAIN fuse panel. This happens to be the 50 Amp fuse that feeds the Ignition switch, relays and ECU among other things; a length of either #8 or #10 wire will be needed to run from the fuse box to the switch and I made an extension for the wire I took off using a crimp on ring terminal, bolt and nut (shrink tubing and spliced the extension on and ran it to the other terminal.
To those that poo-poo the switch in the engine bay-that is where mine is and I have a pull cable shut-off for it. Much nicer than cutting the hood of a CRX to get the handle exposed-The cable is reached in front of the windshield next to the mirror on the passenger side. We are also set up with kill circuits (ala NASCAR on the dash) for Ignition, pumps and main power. The disconnect on the dash does not have to be a circuit breaker type (Potter and Brumfield has the W31 series) I'm using an NKK S732 from Digi-key for the 50 amp load rating.
The important thing to remember is that the switch is not going to last forever-regardless of how you wire it-so for track use- buy a spare. The small contacts are required or the Alternator will continue to run the car. I think the solution I'm using (as does K&E and OPM) is the simplest and easiest to do.


[Modified by jc836, 6:01 AM 1/26/2003]

 

lol, not the same thing as just leaving it in the engine bay. as long as there is an easy access to it is the key.

i wired the secondary pole to the white wire to the main fuse box as well.


[Modified by Tyson, 3:10 AM 1/26/2003]

 

The recommended way to install a cutoff...

1. Take car to shop.
2. Pay shop to install switch
3. Drink beer and watch football
4. Pick up car and laugh while the tech explains what a huge pain in the *** the job was.

 

Yah but if someone shakes the beer can, then you have that whole wet shirt issue and if that gets mixed with the lime crusted tostitos on the shirt, it might be ruined. That's the stuff you gotta keep in mind when you take it to have stuff like this done.

FWIW

 

lime crusted tostitos =

 

You've never had lime crusted tostitos at Adam's house my friend.

 

whats the difference? I cant stand them by themselves.