I may go LS/Vtec
I may go LS/vtec. i already have the B16 in my car so i already have most of the parts. I have 4-5 grand to throw down, so what do you think....
BOTTOM END
-GSR bolck resleeved (ductile iron) probly golden eagle
-LS crank and eagle forged rods
-high comp pistons (possibly the JE 11.1:1 forged)
-mugen head gasket for the extra compression (it gives about .4 more compression).
*the reason for the GSR block, i dont have to add any oil lines etc... it is already set up for vtec. The LS crank and rods will give me the long stroke. The pistons and head gasket will put me around 11.5:1 compression (will barely be able to run on street gas) The reason for the piston and head gasket set up for higher compression, is to have a piston with a flatter top. we all know that a flat top piston is the best piston. (i dont feel like explaining why right now)
TOP END
-skunk2 stage 2 cams and cam gears
-ITR valve train
-retainers (havent picked any out yet)
TRANNY ETC...
-type r lsd
-stage 2 clutch (havent picked one)
-lightened flywheel (havent picked one out yet)
OTHER
-hondata or some other type of good fuel management system
-all new bearings
-balanced crank
-valve adjustments
-timing belt
-270 cc injectors
INTAKE and EXAUST
-home made AEM style cold air intake
-Skunk2 IM
-hondata IM gasket
-header (undecided)
-2 1/2 in exhaust (undecided)
so what do you think?? I believe all the week points in the LS/Vtec will be taken care of (such as rods and sleeves).
If there is anything that i am missing here for a good build up, either i forgot it or
I am an idiot and i didnt think about it yet.
try not to flame me to hard on the LS/Vtec idea, i know what you are all going to say, so just keep it to your self. any positive input is definitly welcome. THANKS
[Modified by 90_Civic_Hatch, 4:55 AM 12/2/2002]
BOTTOM END
-GSR bolck resleeved (ductile iron) probly golden eagle
-LS crank and eagle forged rods
-high comp pistons (possibly the JE 11.1:1 forged)
-mugen head gasket for the extra compression (it gives about .4 more compression).
*the reason for the GSR block, i dont have to add any oil lines etc... it is already set up for vtec. The LS crank and rods will give me the long stroke. The pistons and head gasket will put me around 11.5:1 compression (will barely be able to run on street gas) The reason for the piston and head gasket set up for higher compression, is to have a piston with a flatter top. we all know that a flat top piston is the best piston. (i dont feel like explaining why right now)
TOP END
-skunk2 stage 2 cams and cam gears
-ITR valve train
-retainers (havent picked any out yet)
TRANNY ETC...
-type r lsd
-stage 2 clutch (havent picked one)
-lightened flywheel (havent picked one out yet)
OTHER
-hondata or some other type of good fuel management system
-all new bearings
-balanced crank
-valve adjustments
-timing belt
-270 cc injectors
INTAKE and EXAUST
-home made AEM style cold air intake
-Skunk2 IM
-hondata IM gasket
-header (undecided)
-2 1/2 in exhaust (undecided)
so what do you think?? I believe all the week points in the LS/Vtec will be taken care of (such as rods and sleeves).
If there is anything that i am missing here for a good build up, either i forgot it or
I am an idiot and i didnt think about it yet.
try not to flame me to hard on the LS/Vtec idea, i know what you are all going to say, so just keep it to your self. any positive input is definitly welcome. THANKS
[Modified by 90_Civic_Hatch, 4:55 AM 12/2/2002]
technically it is i guess LOL. yeah i have been shopping for prices for a while on everything listed. it will come out to around 4.5 grand. I am doing all the labor with a freind that will be building a b20Vtec. I will also be getting some of things i need through a sponsered freind of mine.
EDIT: i may have to down grade on a few things if money begins to get tight. How good are the spoon ITR pistons (they are on sale through group buy for 250 shipped)
[Modified by 90_Civic_Hatch, 5:07 AM 12/2/2002]
[Modified by 90_Civic_Hatch, 5:08 AM 12/2/2002]
EDIT: i may have to down grade on a few things if money begins to get tight. How good are the spoon ITR pistons (they are on sale through group buy for 250 shipped)
[Modified by 90_Civic_Hatch, 5:07 AM 12/2/2002]
[Modified by 90_Civic_Hatch, 5:08 AM 12/2/2002]
1) I dont think that 11.1:1 comp pistons are going to be flat top.
2) If you plan in sleeving the block and using forged sleeves, then you can use an ls block.
3) I wouldnt worry about oiling issues with an ls block unless you are planning for 400+ hp, and you wont get anywhere near with this setup.
Not flaming, just simply stating.
2) If you plan in sleeving the block and using forged sleeves, then you can use an ls block.
3) I wouldnt worry about oiling issues with an ls block unless you are planning for 400+ hp, and you wont get anywhere near with this setup.
Not flaming, just simply stating.
IMO I would just turbo my b16 and save the rest of the loot left over, if i had the money.
you are correct sir.
I wouldnt worry about oiling issues with an ls block unless you are planning for 400+ hp, and you wont get anywhere near with this setup.
with 4 to 5k's to spend why go all motor?, might as well turbo that sucker.
you can get a great setup for the money you have and it will leave you with plenty of money.
just my 2c.
you can get a great setup for the money you have and it will leave you with plenty of money.
just my 2c.
Trending Topics
I agree with joey, with 4k you could buy a used full turbo kit, all the extras, have the turbo overhauled, put in some nice failsafes and run 10lbs all day.
If you want to stay all motor, just throw in some ctr pistons, itr exhaust cam, ctr intake cam, some springs and retainers, valve job, beef up your rods, port polish and shave, and have a super fun all motor b16(?)
-Jake
If you want to stay all motor, just throw in some ctr pistons, itr exhaust cam, ctr intake cam, some springs and retainers, valve job, beef up your rods, port polish and shave, and have a super fun all motor b16(?)
-Jake
(((If you want to stay all motor, just throw in some ctr pistons, itr exhaust cam, ctr intake cam, some springs and retainers, valve job, beef up your rods, port polish and shave, and have a super fun all motor b16(?) ))))
Have to agree.
I think 5k into ls/vtec is crazy but its your loot. Spend 2k on your b16 and have a 10,500 rpm monster.
Have to agree.
I think 5k into ls/vtec is crazy but its your loot. Spend 2k on your b16 and have a 10,500 rpm monster.
you all bring up good points. I do want to stay all motor. i've always given more respect to an all motor vehical than anything with FI or nitrous.
from what i am gathering, most of think i should stay with the b16 block and use ctr parts on it. That would save me a hell of alot of money, but i dont think it would put me where i want to be in the 1/4.
My plan is to beet all the people around my area that run nitrous and FI. Theres not a whole lot of competition here though. the best times I've seen at the track for honda/acura's are low 13's with nitrous.
If i can get into the 12's all motor with the b16 block and honda techs help, i'll do it.
so lets hear some more good ideas! and I am not going turbo, even though i love them
[Modified by 90_Civic_Hatch, 8:02 PM 12/4/2002]
from what i am gathering, most of think i should stay with the b16 block and use ctr parts on it. That would save me a hell of alot of money, but i dont think it would put me where i want to be in the 1/4.
My plan is to beet all the people around my area that run nitrous and FI. Theres not a whole lot of competition here though. the best times I've seen at the track for honda/acura's are low 13's with nitrous.
If i can get into the 12's all motor with the b16 block and honda techs help, i'll do it.
so lets hear some more good ideas! and I am not going turbo, even though i love them
[Modified by 90_Civic_Hatch, 8:02 PM 12/4/2002]
"dh" - ported head
"dh" - ported intake manifold
CTR cams
Stock valves with after-market valve springs
68mm Throttle-body
The motor makes peak power @ 9350rpm. At the drag strip, we shift it at 10,000rpm. The car runs consistent 13.1, but we have recorded a 12.9sec pass (full interior). The interior has recently been stripped, but we haven’t taken her to the strip since. We’ll keep you posted!
Thank you,
Dave Hickman
Owner dh-racing.net
Contact us at: {Civicgos9s@aol.com}
JDM B16A block
Stock B16A PR3 head
ITR valve springs
ITR lost motion assembly
ITR cams
skunk2 cam gears
CTR pistons (~12:1 CR)
DC 4-2-1
open exhaust (little resonator)
ITR intake manifold
stock airbox w/K&N drop in & cold air ducting
stock throttle body
skunk2 ECU
Field SFC-VTEC
balanced bottom end
ITR clutch
Muller aluminum flywheel
notice the motor B16!
.................................................. .................................................. ......
CTR pistons w/ rings and pin $380 ( http://godspeed.hack.net/honda.html ) CTR Intake camshaft - $330 (same as above)
ITR exhaust camshaft - $260 (same)
JDM Integra Type R 4-1 stainless header (2.5 inch collector) - $450 (same)
Eagle Rods $379 set ( http://www.cdpautomachine.com/ecatalog/importrods.html )
Head work http://www.jgenginedynamics.com/6000...ec%20heads.pdf
Includes: Full competition port polish, retainers, springs, valve job (3 angle), new valve seals, lots more. -$1500
JG EDELBROCK VICTOR X INTAKE MANIFOLD: B16A/B18C5- $358 ( http://www.optauto.com/webstore/prod...k=yes&dept=494 )
Just for starters. $3657
Hope that helps...
-Jake
[Modified by SuperHatch, 3:28 PM 12/5/2002]
The motor makes peak power @ 9350rpm. At the drag strip, we shift it at 10,000rpm. The car runs consistent 13.1, but we have recorded a 12.9sec pass (full interior).
Damn Super, you did some research for this guy.
CTR pistons w/ rings and pin $380 ( http://godspeed.hack.net/honda.html ) CTR Intake camshaft - $330 (same as above)
ITR exhaust camshaft - $260 (same)
JDM Integra Type R 4-1 stainless header (2.5 inch collector) - $450 (same)
Eagle Rods $379 set ( http://www.cdpautomachine.com/ecatalog/importrods.html )
Head work http://www.jgenginedynamics.com/6000...ec%20heads.pdf
Includes: Full competition port polish, retainers, springs, valve job (3 angle), new valve seals, lots more. -$1500
JG EDELBROCK VICTOR X INTAKE MANIFOLD: B16A/B18C5- $358 ( http://www.optauto.com/webstore/prod...k=yes&dept=494 )
Just for starters. $3657
ITR exhaust camshaft - $260 (same)
JDM Integra Type R 4-1 stainless header (2.5 inch collector) - $450 (same)
Eagle Rods $379 set ( http://www.cdpautomachine.com/ecatalog/importrods.html )
Head work http://www.jgenginedynamics.com/6000...ec%20heads.pdf
Includes: Full competition port polish, retainers, springs, valve job (3 angle), new valve seals, lots more. -$1500
JG EDELBROCK VICTOR X INTAKE MANIFOLD: B16A/B18C5- $358 ( http://www.optauto.com/webstore/prod...k=yes&dept=494 )
Just for starters. $3657
-'01 ITR IN & EX Camshaft (same as CTR ones) acuraautomotiveparts.net $217 ea.
-Porflow "Standard Honda Headwork" $900 & Dual Spring and Retainer Kit $320portflow
-Skunk2 Mani (I dont think he will be making enough power to worry about the Victor X mani) $265 Porflow again
-Quaife LSD $795 shipped from earl on here
-Exedy clutch w/ organic disk $265 shipped clutchcityonline.com
-Clutch Masters 7.5lb flywheel $Not sure on this (I got mine for $269 locally)
Sorry, I dont have any charts for this.
Great info Jeff! From my understanding, the ctr has a better intake cam profile than the itr does..so running the ctr intake and the itr exhaust is the best combo.
Good call on the intake mani. One thing I didnt put in there is an over boared TB..
And I did all that using google, and 45 min of work time
-Jake
Good call on the intake mani. One thing I didnt put in there is an over boared TB..
And I did all that using google, and 45 min of work time

-Jake
I have been told that the CTR and '01 ITR have the same intake cam. Thats why I suggested it.
As far as throttlebody goes, I heard of people using newer Mustang tb's because they are 70mm and like $65 at Auto Zone. I cannot confirm this though.
It took me about 20min of your tax payer time, but I knew where this stuff was on account of me researching it before.
As far as throttlebody goes, I heard of people using newer Mustang tb's because they are 70mm and like $65 at Auto Zone. I cannot confirm this though.
It took me about 20min of your tax payer time, but I knew where this stuff was on account of me researching it before.
you people are great. I definitaly appreciate everyone doing the research. I will take all your ideas into account. if anybody has websites they think i should look at to help me on my way i would appreciate that too. Thanks again
I have spent about $9k in just parts for my swap.
2.0 LS/VTEC with the Golden Eagle Deckplate and sleevs and its also turboed t4 62-1.

just hit me a PM if you need any info or help.
I am still missing:
Rods/Standalone/Clutch/Fuel System/Roll Cage
[Modified by Civicdrgrcr, 7:58 PM 12/7/2002]
I have been told that the CTR and '01 ITR have the same intake cam. Thats why I suggested it.
As far as throttlebody goes, I heard of people using newer Mustang tb's because they are 70mm and like $65 at Auto Zone. I cannot confirm this though.
It took me about 20min of your tax payer time, but I knew where this stuff was on account of me researching it before.
As far as throttlebody goes, I heard of people using newer Mustang tb's because they are 70mm and like $65 at Auto Zone. I cannot confirm this though.
It took me about 20min of your tax payer time, but I knew where this stuff was on account of me researching it before.
Its true.. Mustanf manifold will work with some modification... and they are cheap as dirt copared to Spoon's $450 price tag!
I'm guessing there is no where to find info on the ford TB's?? I'll have to compare them at the local auto store i guess. thanks for the info
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=352744
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=271011
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=232332
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=212661
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=334249
After reading a couple of those, sounds like you will not be making enough power to worry about it.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=271011
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=232332
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=212661
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=334249
After reading a couple of those, sounds like you will not be making enough power to worry about it.
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