is the b18b1 prefered for boost? true or false

 

True...bigger cubic inches from what i hear

 

In general, the VTEC head make more power for normally aspirated or boosted applications. Do some reading in the forced induction forum.

 

^ truth. I have a b18b, and while I sort of wish it was true, it just doesn't make sense that a better motor wouldn't produce more power...N/A or boost.

 

The really only good thing about the LS motor's is that is has lower comp and a very small (like 5-15cc) difference in displacement. Besides for that. Good head work is the way to make some nice power.

 

actually the difference in displacement is more like 40-50cc, the b18b would almost be considered a 1.9l.

But that's not the reason.
Low compression to begin with ( on a gsr you'd have to do something like switch out pistons first to lower your compression because it's very high to begin with ), slightly stronger low end torque, lower revving ( unless you increase the rev limit ), and a slightly less complex valvetrain make the b18b a tried and true turbo motor.

yeah the b18c series will make more power but will take more work and $$$ to get boosted reliably. DOHC VTEC motors already wear out faster than straight DOHCs because they get redlined all day. I would say a good used GSR motor is hard to come by, but if you're rebuilding the thing then you're going to have one hell of a car after you bolt that turbo on..

 

b18b1
1994-2001 Acura Integra "RS/LS/GS/SE" (DC4/DB7)
* Displacement: 1834 cc
* Compression: 9.2:1
* Bore: 81 mm (3.2 in)
* Stroke: 89 mm (3.5 in)
* Rod Length: 137.01 mm (5.394")
* Rod/Stroke Ratio: 1.54
* Power:
* Redline: 7,200 RPM'S
o 142 hp (106 kW) @ 7000 rpm & 127 ft·lbf (172 N·m) @ 5200 rpm
* Transmission: Y80/S80

b18c1
1994-2001 Honda/Acura Integra GS-R (DC2 & DB8)
o Displacement: 1797 cc
o Compression: 10.0:1
o Bore: 81 mm (3.189")
o Stroke: 87.2 mm (3.433")
o Rod Length: 137.9 mm (5.429")
o Rod/Stroke Ratio: 1.58
o Redline:8,000rpm
o Power: 170 hp (127 kW) @ 7600 rpm & 128 ft·lbf (173 N·m) @ 6200 rpm
o Transmission: Y80 yes

 

that's from wikipedia and unfortunately some of that information is incorrect. not way off, but one example is the hp quote on the b18b1.. this was the obd2 figure, and the non-gsr did not come with the gsr transmission.

the cc is correct, though. ok, it's a 37cc difference .

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Neptronix &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">actually the difference in displacement is more like 40-50cc, the b18b would almost be considered a 1.9l.

But that's not the reason.
Low compression to begin with ( on a gsr you'd have to do something like switch out pistons first to lower your compression because it's very high to begin with ), slightly stronger low end torque, lower revving ( unless you increase the rev limit ), and a slightly less complex valvetrain make the b18b a tried and true turbo motor.

yeah the b18c series will make more power but will take more work and $$$ to get boosted reliably. DOHC VTEC motors already wear out faster than straight DOHCs because they get redlined all day. I would say a good used GSR motor is hard to come by, but if you're rebuilding the thing then you're going to have one hell of a car after you bolt that turbo on..</TD></TR></TABLE>

1st. The b18b is no where near considered to be "close" to a 1.9 lacking 66cc's to get there.

2nd. Stock GSR's make over 300whp on stock internals all day and their "high compression" is only at 10-1 total which is no where near considered "high compression".

3rd. The biggest difference from a Vtec b-series to a non-vtec b-series is the overall stroke that makes up that difference in displacement making that low end torque quicker.

4th. Just upping the rev limiter on a non-vtec or any motor in stock form is bad joo-joo anyway you cut it. The factory put them there for a reason. That reason being? The ls/b20 rods are held in place by the same size bolts (8mm) as a D-series engine so guess what the first thing is to go when you give them boost/nitrious or in your case "upping the rev limiter"? Not a tough one to figure out.

Ls's are used alot for Turbo applications mostly because they are fairly cheap to buy and respond pretty well to boost in stock form. Generally 8lbs or so is good for about 240-260whp in a daily driver. Any application you go with for boost is usually going to have a mechanical failure that is out of your hands, that's why to this day Honda has only ever designed/produced 1 vehicle with a Turbo on it.......Less reliability issues with N/A.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by one bad dx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The ls/b20 rods are held in place by the same size bolts (8mm) as a D-series engine so guess what the first thing is to go when you give them boost/nitrious or in your case "upping the rev limiter"? Not a tough one to figure out.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

--- ARP FTW

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by one bad dx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Generally 8lbs or so is good for about 240-260whp in a daily driver.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

--- I dislike when people say that kind of stuff. PSI means NOTHING without knowing what kind of set up your running. gt40 t3 (@10psi) vs gt40 t4 (@10psi) - Not even comparable in whp.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by one bad dx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Any application you go with for boost is usually going to have a mechanical failure that is out of your hands, that's why to this day Honda has only ever designed/produced 1 vehicle with a Turbo on it.......Less reliability issues with N/A. </TD></TR></TABLE>

--- RDX FTW

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mfoehrkolb &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
--- RDX FTW </TD></TR></TABLE>

swap instructions pls, thx
almost certain that california classifies this as a light truck motor like the b20..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mfoehrkolb &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

--- ARP FTW

--- I dislike when people say that kind of stuff. PSI means NOTHING without knowing what kind of set up your running. gt40 t3 (@10psi) vs gt40 t4 (@10psi) - Not even comparable in whp.

--- RDX FTW </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, I'm sorry I did not specify that with atleast listing compairable turbos/setups accompanied with 10psi. Generally a 40-50trim t3/t4 turbo kit with a 2.5 inch exhaust setup/downpipe with good tunning can net you those figures.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Neptronix &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

swap instructions pls, thx
almost certain that california classifies this as a light truck motor like the b20.. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Haha, I would not even wanna tackle that swap lol. K23 found in the RDX as stated by the O/P. 240hp and virtually no turbo lag what so ever at any RPM. In the RDX driving conservatively people are seeing 25-27mpg mixed driving. Not bad for a turbo SUV tipping in at 3400ish lbs.