Budget Racer

Hi,

I've read about the P1399 code (Mysterious dealer code) and I know it could be valve adjustment, compression, or ignition components etc....

But I'm hoping when I describe what my car does someone can narrow the problem down.

In the morning when warming my car up (2000 civic cx w/D16y7) it sounds like crap kinda like a farting sound.

The check light starts flashing only when warming the car up and then it stays solid after a while or when I start driving. (I'm hoping this will indicate where the problem lies) Besides that the car runs pretty normal aside from being jerky at low Rpm's.

Also my car eats a quart of oil (Mobil 1 synthetic 5/30) once a week or less. Just wanted to mention that in case someone thinks this problem is within my valves.

or could it be TPS? Coil?

INPUT appreciated

stupid hurts

if its burning oil, it could be leaking many places, past your rings, valve guides ect. unless you have a decent oil leak thats visible. or its making coilent ( coolant and oil mix ) witch could be a problem.
low RPM jerking? can you hear it in the motor? if so detonation? or is it the trans?
dealer code? call and ask i would assume.

P.S. im here to help and learn, so ill admit i dont know everything or even alot

Budget Racer

Im not sure where the oil is leaking or burning but I know it's not externally.

Im only concerned about that if it's causing the P1399 code.

The jerking could be the trans or TPS I think.

My main trouble is the codes

Budget Racer

replaced cap and rotor. rotor was burnt good. should I reset my ecu now or see if codes leave. I wonder if the safc could cause this crap.

Budget Racer

Now lately the cel flashes on warm up, goes solid after accelerating, then sometimes starts flashing when I stop again at idle. It always flashes during Idle. Solid when at wide open throttle.

This P1399 code sux azz, and the rest do as well.

Hmmm still wonder if TPS could cause this. I think they get worn from repetitive pedal stomping. I hope I'm correct in that judgment. And that could cause a misfire. Correct??

I need Cel code experts here pretty please.

Thanx in advance, PEACE

Budget Racer

bump

Budget Racer

GO CHARGERS!!!

Luserkid

Could be a TPS problem like your thinking. When sensors are about to go bad theyll sometimes throw a code but wont. Its kind of like the whole phantom code some people get. Its a you could say. But i must ask because this is closely related. Are you sure its throwing 1399 and not 1397 (crank position). Because that would mean bad Dist (since your throwing all misfire and a crank code). Just a thought. You have the dist. from the y8 right? Try that one.

01_CLtypeS

iTrader: (1)

just swap that JRSC'd d16y8 in there problem solved

TurboMKIII

P0300 = random misfire >50%
P0301 = misfire on 1
P0302 = misfire on 2
P0303 = misfire on 3
P0304 = misfire on 4

Not sure what p1399 is but i will look it up tomorrow at work. I work for toyota, but i'm sure i can find something. (P1399 Wait To Start Lamp Circuit -- something i found after a quick search at home, but probably doesnt apply to honda.)

Several other searches came up with -- Honda does not use code P1399 in their DTC list, and if you get this code from a personal non-honda OBDII DTC scan tool that you should take the vehicle into honda.

Dustin

mattsthru

P1399 vehicle specific: HONDA random multiple cylider misfire. Check timing, ignition, plug order, fuel pressure, etc...

EE_Chris

Quit driving and fix it if you've got a catalytic converter in your exhaust, because misfires will foul that bitch out with some quickness. And stock converters aren't cheap.

Budget Racer

Wow where have you guys been? This thread was dead but came back to life LOL.

Yo Wassup Cody & Victor!!

Vic Yeah, It's definately a P1399. When I used the scan tool it said something like: P1399 Ignition control module (dealer code) This is not the "wait to start" code that people have found because it doesn't apply to the Honda civic I believe.

I have the stock D16y7 distributer.

I do have a 255 walbro fuel pump though and my fuel pressure is outragous like 50 psi or more. (was gonna use juice but decided against it)

My cat is probably fried as I have been driving with this code for awhile.
But I have to drive to work.

So TPS maybe?? CAT bad hmmm??? O2 sensors fried from nitrous Hmm???

Im workin on that swap still Cody. I should be getting my P28 ecu chipped today or this weekend. I may need a new distributer, and O2 sensors now but dunno.
So I still need an OBD2b to OBD 1 conversion harness, tranny bolts, alternator bolts, acessory belt, OBD2 Injector conversion plugs for the RC 440's.

If anyone has info on above parts needed I'd appreciate it.

OK I'll give Yallz eyes a break for now ha ha

Thanx Peeps!!!



Modified by Budget Racer at 1:38 PM 8/17/2007

Budget Racer

Bumps

Budget Racer

Bump

EE_Chris

What have you tested?

Budget Racer

Didn't test anything yet. I'm not that good with electrical but I'll have to try. I did change the cap, and rotor though, and spark wires not long ago.

So I guess I should test the TPS, Coil, and check for sparks at the spark plug wire ends. Maybe need to test the O2 sensors, and Map sensor too. Check my ignition timing??

I wonder if my SAFC could be causing this too. All fuel settings are at zero though.

Can anyone think of any other things to test???

EE_Chris

Test the things you've already mentioned and get back to us.