burning oil (sucks)
#1
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Thread Starter
burning oil (sucks)
about 2 months ago i replaced my blown Y8 motor with another Y8, last week oil light flickered for not even a second - check the oil and it is bone dry. car isn't leaking anywhere, it's not smoking. i know i should be checking the oil but was just going to change the oil cause its been about 3500 since it got changed last. any thoughts even though i know it can be a ton of things internally that can cause oil to burn..but something is causing almost 4 quarts of oil to burn off really damn quick.
Modified by Probot at 10:41 AM 8/13/2007
Modified by Probot at 10:41 AM 8/13/2007
#3
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: burning oil (Probot)
just wanted to bump this and update to see if anyone can lend some advice - changed my oil and plugs last friday. pulled the plugs out and they were really black...even with those replaced car still drives the same (which it drives fine, no difference with new plugs). now with the oil...on last friday...i put 4 qts in...checked it yesterday...less than 2qts are in it now. il say again, car isnt leaking..its not smoking (atleast im pretty sure it isnt, i mean to burn off that much oil in 5 days id be seeing a cloud of smoke behind me). i plan on taking the car to get a leakdown and compression test saturday but if that tells me if the problem lies in the pistons/cylinders..wouldnt i see smoke??
i really dont know what could be causing this..so any help would be nice.
thanks
i really dont know what could be causing this..so any help would be nice.
thanks
#5
If you are burning that much oil in 3500 miles, you would see signs of it... it would smoke like a chimney. If you are not smoking, you are leaking from somewhere. Clean the underside of the engine and chassis thuroughly, and perform your oil change. Drive around, and in about 24 hours, check for signs of oil leaking. Check oil pan seals, oil filter, head gasket, valve cover gasket, vtec solenoid, drain plug, etc.
#6
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Re: (StreetRacin101)
will do - just sucks..spent way too much money for a d-series block to begin with..pretty much, i couldve done a b swap with the amount of money i spent...but i needed the car back on the road asap cause its my dd/only car..so this time im just gonna call up h-motors as soon as i have the cash and call it a day
EDIT: as far as leaks...where i park at home and work there aren't any oil spots, my car has sat in the same spot for a weekend and nothing. i really dont know what the hell it could be. only think i can think of is that its burning up in the crank?? if it can even burn up that quickly...im really stumped. but im going to go over it tomorrow morning, clean everything just so IF its leaking il be able to locate it.
Modified by Probot at 7:12 AM 8/24/2007
EDIT: as far as leaks...where i park at home and work there aren't any oil spots, my car has sat in the same spot for a weekend and nothing. i really dont know what the hell it could be. only think i can think of is that its burning up in the crank?? if it can even burn up that quickly...im really stumped. but im going to go over it tomorrow morning, clean everything just so IF its leaking il be able to locate it.
Modified by Probot at 7:12 AM 8/24/2007
#7
Re: (Probot)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Probot »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">EDIT: as far as leaks...where i park at home and work there aren't any oil spots, my car has sat in the same spot for a weekend and nothing. i really dont know what the hell it could be. only think i can think of is that its burning up in the crank?? if it can even burn up that quickly...im really stumped. but im going to go over it tomorrow morning, clean everything just so IF its leaking il be able to locate it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Again, if its burning up anywhere, your going to see smoke. Slide a piece of cardboard under the motor after you have been driving around for about 20-30 minutes. Check the cardboard a few hours later to see if it caught anything.
Again, if its burning up anywhere, your going to see smoke. Slide a piece of cardboard under the motor after you have been driving around for about 20-30 minutes. Check the cardboard a few hours later to see if it caught anything.
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#9
Re: (Probot)
how are you drving? aboce 5000 rpms?
it could be your rings, or just your valve seals, could be alot of things, but honestly, just check it out.
oh, and get a swap lol
it could be your rings, or just your valve seals, could be alot of things, but honestly, just check it out.
oh, and get a swap lol
#10
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Thread Starter
Re: (vlc92189)
lol im currently saving for that b swap!! - i do drive kind of hard..pretty much just on highways, but its not winding every gear out. i may drop a gear to pass someone or to run with a couple cars through traffic (which isn't often). but mostly i cruise anywhere from 60-85mph (which in new jersey on route 80...everyone does that or more). but when im on urban/rural/town streets i dont go over the speed limits (30/35/40 and 45 mph)
#11
since there older motors, they do tend to burn oil at higher rpm's so if your hittin vtec everytime, then that will cause u to lose oil
oh and you can find ls swaps for 500 in the market place
oh and you can find ls swaps for 500 in the market place
#13
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Re: (Bulli Kid)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vlc92189 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">since there older motors, they do tend to burn oil at higher rpm's so if your hittin vtec everytime, then that will cause u to lose oil
oh and you can find ls swaps for 500 in the market place</TD></TR></TABLE>
how quick could it burn that much oil though...5 days?? and if im swapping for a B im going with GSR
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bulli Kid »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">maybe its your oil! what oil are u using!? lol</TD></TR></TABLE>
Mobile1
oh and you can find ls swaps for 500 in the market place</TD></TR></TABLE>
how quick could it burn that much oil though...5 days?? and if im swapping for a B im going with GSR
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bulli Kid »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">maybe its your oil! what oil are u using!? lol</TD></TR></TABLE>
Mobile1
#14
Re: (Probot)
not a bad choice, i loved my gsr. now im with a b16 ehh. i know lol, but yes if your driving in vtec like that alot in 5 days you could burn alot of oil
your probaly using 5w30 arent you
your probaly using 5w30 arent you
#20
be professional
Re: (Probot)
10W-30 is not going to burn any slower than 5W-30. Once the oil reaches operating temperature, viscosity is the same.
It is also incredibly stupid to use a synthetic when you're burning that much oil. It equates to burning money. And since the engine is already pretty much ruined, there is no need for the extra wear protection provided by a synthetic.
As far as preventing burn-off goes, we've had the best luck with 10W-40 conventional oil. 20W-50 doesn't burn off any slower, and 5W-30 is too thin. Synthetics tend to burn off faster than conventional oils.
You have to keep checking the oil frequently. The lower the level gets, the faster it will burn off. The car does not have to be smoking heavily at all to be burning oil. Small amounts of oil won't produce much if any smoke, and small amounts of smoke are not visible from inside the car.
It is also incredibly stupid to use a synthetic when you're burning that much oil. It equates to burning money. And since the engine is already pretty much ruined, there is no need for the extra wear protection provided by a synthetic.
As far as preventing burn-off goes, we've had the best luck with 10W-40 conventional oil. 20W-50 doesn't burn off any slower, and 5W-30 is too thin. Synthetics tend to burn off faster than conventional oils.
You have to keep checking the oil frequently. The lower the level gets, the faster it will burn off. The car does not have to be smoking heavily at all to be burning oil. Small amounts of oil won't produce much if any smoke, and small amounts of smoke are not visible from inside the car.
#21
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: (Targa250R)
might be a dumb question - i usually change my own oil, i went to a quik lube (and it has nothing to do with their service or anything, they did everything right) but he only put 3.5 qts in where i usually put 5..used to buy a jug of valvoline from walmart i think 10w30...would adding more help the situation...i mean it will obviously make it so there is more in there but would it slow the burning, stop it, or just switch to regular oil..synthetic blend? and i said before..i dont beat on the car but i cruise almost regularly at like 75-85mph...would that cause the oil to burn quicker or just burn up THAT fast?
#22
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Re: (Probot)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Probot »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lol im currently saving for that b swap!! - i do drive kind of hard..pretty much just on highways, but its not winding every gear out. i may drop a gear to pass someone or to run with a couple cars through traffic (which isn't often). but mostly i cruise anywhere from 60-85mph (which in new jersey on route 80...everyone does that or more). but when im on urban/rural/town streets i dont go over the speed limits (30/35/40 and 45 mph)</TD></TR></TABLE>
Oh yeah ... I forgot ... B series doesn't go bad when "bone dry" on oil ... It's not the engines fault but your negligence. First thing I do when I buy a use car is to pinpoint any leaks and fix them. And if by any chance engine is already burning oil - then my daily routine is to check oil level ... and ad accordingly ...
Just my $0.02 - You expect your car to be always ready when you need it ... put some initial work when you get it, preventative maintenance stuff and enjoy ... otherwise used cars are ticking bombs
Good luck
Oh yeah ... I forgot ... B series doesn't go bad when "bone dry" on oil ... It's not the engines fault but your negligence. First thing I do when I buy a use car is to pinpoint any leaks and fix them. And if by any chance engine is already burning oil - then my daily routine is to check oil level ... and ad accordingly ...
Just my $0.02 - You expect your car to be always ready when you need it ... put some initial work when you get it, preventative maintenance stuff and enjoy ... otherwise used cars are ticking bombs
Good luck
#23
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Thread Starter
Re: (quapouh)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by quapouh »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Oh yeah ... I forgot ... B series doesn't go bad when "bone dry" on oil ... It's not the engines fault but your negligence. First thing I do when I buy a use car is to pinpoint any leaks and fix them. And if by any chance engine is already burning oil - then my daily routine is to check oil level ... and ad accordingly ...
Just my $0.02 - You expect your car to be always ready when you need it ... put some initial work when you get it, preventative maintenance stuff and enjoy ... otherwise used cars are ticking bombs
Good luck </TD></TR></TABLE>
just my $.02 - the car i drive is a civic with a d16y8 - im saving for a B swap - my d16y8 was just swapped in no more than a month and a half ago..and i know goddamn well to pay attention to these things..kind of like reading..you learn stuff when you read...like you shouldve read the part of me saying the car doesnt leak or smoke..mightve learned something from that.
im not ignoring my car obviously if i checked the oil levels too einstein
and im not exactly a couch potato either...i work my *** off and in the mornings around..hmm 5am??...i dont feel much like checking my oil and the same at night after my 12 to 16 hour days...i have a lot of other **** going on too...and i didnt realize the car was burning oil until about 2 weeks ago..and since that ive been all over it.
Oh yeah ... I forgot ... B series doesn't go bad when "bone dry" on oil ... It's not the engines fault but your negligence. First thing I do when I buy a use car is to pinpoint any leaks and fix them. And if by any chance engine is already burning oil - then my daily routine is to check oil level ... and ad accordingly ...
Just my $0.02 - You expect your car to be always ready when you need it ... put some initial work when you get it, preventative maintenance stuff and enjoy ... otherwise used cars are ticking bombs
Good luck </TD></TR></TABLE>
just my $.02 - the car i drive is a civic with a d16y8 - im saving for a B swap - my d16y8 was just swapped in no more than a month and a half ago..and i know goddamn well to pay attention to these things..kind of like reading..you learn stuff when you read...like you shouldve read the part of me saying the car doesnt leak or smoke..mightve learned something from that.
im not ignoring my car obviously if i checked the oil levels too einstein
and im not exactly a couch potato either...i work my *** off and in the mornings around..hmm 5am??...i dont feel much like checking my oil and the same at night after my 12 to 16 hour days...i have a lot of other **** going on too...and i didnt realize the car was burning oil until about 2 weeks ago..and since that ive been all over it.
#24
be professional
Re: (Probot)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Probot »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">might be a dumb question - i usually change my own oil, i went to a quik lube (and it has nothing to do with their service or anything, they did everything right) but he only put 3.5 qts in where i usually put 5</TD></TR></TABLE>
The factory service manual stated capacity for an oil & filter change on a D16Y8 is 3.5 quarts. That just tells you how much oil to buy though - it doesn't tell you exactly how much to put into the engine to fill it to the proper level (which is the top hole on the dip stick). When changing oil, you fill the sump until it reaches the correct level, then start the engine and wait until the oil pressure light goes out, in order to pump the new (empty) oil filter full of oil. Then you stop the engine to re-check the level, and top off as needed.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">would adding more help the situation...i mean it will obviously make it so there is more in there but would it slow the burning, stop it</TD></TR></TABLE>
You really shouldn't overfill the engine more than 1/3 of a quart. It can cause even more problems, and it is just going to burn off anyway when it blows through the PCV system.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just switch to regular oil..synthetic blend?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Synthetic blends are usually a bad deal because they contain more conventional oil than synthetic but the price is still jacked up. I just run straight 10W-40 Castrol GTX conventional oil in all of my cars, including my 261,000-mile D16A6. It's cheap, and it lubricates the engine - that's all I can ask for. You have to keep an eye on the level in the sump though; I never allow it to drop more than a half-quart low.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and i said before..i dont beat on the car but i cruise almost regularly at like 75-85mph...would that cause the oil to burn quicker or just burn up THAT fast?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I've seen a lot of the '96-00 D16Y-series engines, particularly Y8s, with heavy oil consumption problems. I'm not sure what the causes are, but a lot of Y8s seem to burn a lot of oil. We've junked several '96-00 EX Civics lately and replaced engines in a few others due to the drivers running them out of oil and seizing/breaking camshafts or putting rods through the block.
There really isn't much you can do, short of a rebuild, if the engine is already burning oil. The only other option is to source another used engine that was well maintained and isn't burning large amounts of oil.
The factory service manual stated capacity for an oil & filter change on a D16Y8 is 3.5 quarts. That just tells you how much oil to buy though - it doesn't tell you exactly how much to put into the engine to fill it to the proper level (which is the top hole on the dip stick). When changing oil, you fill the sump until it reaches the correct level, then start the engine and wait until the oil pressure light goes out, in order to pump the new (empty) oil filter full of oil. Then you stop the engine to re-check the level, and top off as needed.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">would adding more help the situation...i mean it will obviously make it so there is more in there but would it slow the burning, stop it</TD></TR></TABLE>
You really shouldn't overfill the engine more than 1/3 of a quart. It can cause even more problems, and it is just going to burn off anyway when it blows through the PCV system.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just switch to regular oil..synthetic blend?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Synthetic blends are usually a bad deal because they contain more conventional oil than synthetic but the price is still jacked up. I just run straight 10W-40 Castrol GTX conventional oil in all of my cars, including my 261,000-mile D16A6. It's cheap, and it lubricates the engine - that's all I can ask for. You have to keep an eye on the level in the sump though; I never allow it to drop more than a half-quart low.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and i said before..i dont beat on the car but i cruise almost regularly at like 75-85mph...would that cause the oil to burn quicker or just burn up THAT fast?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I've seen a lot of the '96-00 D16Y-series engines, particularly Y8s, with heavy oil consumption problems. I'm not sure what the causes are, but a lot of Y8s seem to burn a lot of oil. We've junked several '96-00 EX Civics lately and replaced engines in a few others due to the drivers running them out of oil and seizing/breaking camshafts or putting rods through the block.
There really isn't much you can do, short of a rebuild, if the engine is already burning oil. The only other option is to source another used engine that was well maintained and isn't burning large amounts of oil.
#25
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Re: (Probot)
Make up your mind ... once you say car doesn't leak or smoke and right after that you say that you didn't realize that it was burning oil ... just for your information if it doesn't leak or burn it's usually still there ... yours wasn't ... hint hint ... another thing - if you feel that sure of your "******* of an engine" crapped out on you without a reason ... than why start a discussion in the first place ...
I for one don't like to listen other peoples problem just for the kick of it ...
ONLY way to loose 3.5 quarts of oil in one day is a hole in oil pan or huge leak that you can't miss.
One more thing 5 quarts for your d16y8 is about 1.5qt too much ... that as well could have been a reason for your problems now ... Einstein - out of respect you could at least type his name in capital ... kiddo
I for one don't like to listen other peoples problem just for the kick of it ...
ONLY way to loose 3.5 quarts of oil in one day is a hole in oil pan or huge leak that you can't miss.
One more thing 5 quarts for your d16y8 is about 1.5qt too much ... that as well could have been a reason for your problems now ... Einstein - out of respect you could at least type his name in capital ... kiddo