Well my friend Steve and I were supposed to do this two weekends ago. but like a dumbass I some how lost my lug nut key. Called Mackin industries and they are fresh out!!! call a few local places in LA area and found that Upgrade motoring had one left that matched mine. So in the future for you wheel thieves, Rays lugs are key coded. you just cant get any Rays lug key and jack rims. there is a notch that lines up and if you dont have the right number code for the key you will get one that doesnt match up.

So I got the key and we installed my ITR calipers on ym GSR. I got a set of Duralast ITR rotors for 18.99 each. Prelude were ridiculous 44 bucks each. I had a friend machine 4x100 lug pattern on and they fit like a champ. He sort of knew what he was doing. but we were worried for a little bit cause it wasnt CNC. it was centered electronically and the position of the table to the drill press is set up with a digital readout of the position x/y so he could tell it that he wants to make 4 holes centered around it. but he has to physically move the table and what not.

anyway I had .5mm left of pad material on some of my brakes. thats right super thin. way past my due date. the weird thing is that some of them would be thin but the other pad woudl be thick both on teh same caliper.

We bled the brakes but the problem with having two people workign on a car is that communication isnt so hot. you dont know what the other guy is doing. Both of us are well competent to do brakes. but im setting up the rear caliper back on after I changed pads and he says "before you do that lets bleed the front" we didnt think anything of it. but afterwards we saw the result. the rear caliper was pressed out all the way and spilt fluid all over. luckily it went back in and we bled the rear and the front again.

Many people grind the caliper bracket down cause if you dont then the rotor will rub against the bracket. well I didnt want to do that so i got HARDENED washers. 7/16 are a perfect fit over the lugs but the lug ges a little wider towards the hub and the washer wont fit. so i also got 1/2 inch and they were perfect. the 7/16" washers were about 3mm thick and the 1/2 were 5mm thick.

You put the washers on first then the rotor. the 1/2" washers worked perfectly. you want HARDENED washers cause the torqueing of the wheel over the rotor may squash normal washers and may not stay the same thickness.

I did find a screw in my passenger front tire so i get to use my full size spare for the first time. $60 for the Work emotion wheel. (it was made in the same factory as Work) but it weighs a ton!!! i weighed the wheel before mounting a tire on it and it is 17.8 lbs!!!! it is 16x7

my 17x7.5 volks are only 15 lbs.

well here are the pics. the ITR pads are much biger than GSR and i like how well the brakes fill up the wheel even for my rather large 17" volks. now i need a little bigger rear brakes. I heard EP3 are larger for the rears?











Modified by Solscud007 at 3:18 PM 9/20/2006


Modified by Solscud007 at 3:19 PM 9/20/2006

 

When you have uneven pad wear it means the sliders are beginning or are already seized. So you solved that problem with your swap.

 

actually it was the rear that was seized. but we fixed it.

 

the whole washers to space the rotor sounds dangerous. why didn't you want to grind the brackets?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KraZEtEggIE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the whole washers to space the rotor sounds dangerous. why didn't you want to grind the brackets?</TD></TR></TABLE>

how is it dangerous? I used 5mm hardened washers they will not deform and stay the same thickness. one for every lug. Grinding is not precise. Plus I rather not ruin things by hacking away at things to get them to work.

 

Did you read this thread?

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=734560

Drilling a 5x114.3mm lug pattern to a 4x100mm lug pattern will overlap holes and cause an imbalance in the rotor. You also used a 70mm centerbore rotor instead of the needed 64mm centerbore. You can see here that a 4x114.3mm pattern (Prelude rotor on right, Integra rotor on left) can be redrilled with no overlap and have the correct center bore.



I did this conversion and properly machined the caliper bracket with a Bridgeport.



By placing 2mm thick washers behind your rotor, you are lifting it off of the hub face and the centering ring (this would only matter if you used the correct 64mm center bore). This will lead to corrosion and a possible imbalance. Hey, if you go ghetto, go all the way.

 

Ive helped with 2 ITR brake conversions. One on my own car and one on my buddies. I also Machined the caliper bracket with a bridgeport, Being percise. I would second guess putting the washers behind your rotors like you have. I forsee major issues with that setup.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dogginator &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you read this thread?

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=734560

Drilling a 5x114.3mm lug pattern to a 4x100mm lug pattern will overlap holes and cause an imbalance in the rotor. You also used a 70mm centerbore rotor instead of the needed 64mm centerbore. You can see here that a 4x114.3mm pattern (Prelude rotor on right, Integra rotor on left) can be redrilled with no overlap and have the correct center bore.



I did this conversion and properly machined the caliper bracket with a Bridgeport.



By placing 2mm thick washers behind your rotor, you are lifting it off of the hub face and the centering ring (this would only matter if you used the correct 64mm center bore). This will lead to corrosion and a possible imbalance. Hey, if you go ghetto, go all the way.</TD></TR></TABLE>


true however the imbalance is a mere gram or so. negligeable. almost as if you had one of those screw that hold the rotor in and you onyl had one.

The most important thing is that the 4x100 holes were drilled exactly from the center. which my friend and I checked many times. to get the precise center of the hub. The placement would be about 0.000001 degree off.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Solscud007 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how is it dangerous? </TD></TR></TABLE> not sure it is, but it just seems like you would want the most surface area as you could have. i would think the washers would want to dig into the rim a bit since all the pressure is in 4 small areas. i wonder if you could run a spacer? i think fast-brakes does on their nsx rear caliper kit for integras.

 

Without the proper size center bore, only the lugs are centering the rotor. The holes for the lugs are a clearance fit and inherently have slop. Your best bet would be to find a 2mm thick wheel spacer that also converts from a 64mm to a 70 mm centering ring. (You will then need wheels that accept a 70mm centering ring.) The other issue with the spacers that I forgot to mention is that the wheels also mount on the centering ring, which is now recessed by 2mm. So you have your rotors and wheels centered only by the lugs. That is not a good design.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dogginator &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Without the proper size center bore, only the lugs are centering the rotor. The holes for the lugs are a clearance fit and inherently have slop. Your best bet would be to find a 2mm thick wheel spacer that also converts from a 64mm to a 70 mm centering ring. (You will then need wheels that accept a 70mm centering ring.) The other issue with the spacers that I forgot to mention is that the wheels also mount on the centering ring, which is now recessed by 2mm. So you have your rotors and wheels centered only by the lugs. That is not a good design.</TD></TR></TABLE>


So if i went with legend rotors or prelude rotors? that will solve the issue? are there any inexpensive prelude rotors? cause autozone wants something like 40 bucks each.

anyone know if the 4x100 02 Civic SI has 11.1" front rotors? i knwo the rears are 10.3"

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Solscud007 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


So if i went with legend rotors or prelude rotors? that will solve the issue? are there any inexpensive prelude rotors? cause autozone wants something like 40 bucks each.

anyone know if the 4x100 02 Civic SI has 11.1" front rotors? i knwo the rears are 10.3"</TD></TR></TABLE>

The Prelude rotors will solve the centering issue since they has a 64mm center bore. You will still have the offset unless the caliper brackets are machined by 2mm or you find a 2mm wheel spacer.

The problem with the offset is that the rotor is 2mm thicker on the ITR and Prelude. The hubs on the ITR are offset to compensate. The Prelude rotor is by far the best fit. I think that I paid about $80 for both front Prelude rotors.

These are your brakes. Do not skimp here.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dogginator &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The Prelude rotors will solve the centering issue since they has a 64mm center bore. You will still have the offset unless the caliper brackets are machined by 2mm or you find a 2mm wheel spacer.

The problem with the offset is that the rotor is 2mm thicker on the ITR and Prelude. The hubs on the ITR are offset to compensate. The Prelude rotor is by far the best fit. I think that I paid about $80 for both front Prelude rotors.

These are your brakes. Do not skimp here.</TD></TR></TABLE>

hmm I dont know if 2mm is correct. the washers were 5mm and placed the rotor perfectly in the center of the caliper bracket. my friend said that it should have be 3mm of spacing. but 5 seems to work perfectly.

 

5mm works but you are pusing the wheel by 5mm outwards and changed the suspension geometry by a slight bit. What i have heard is 3mm. Well, see if you care about the 2 mm difference. But I would do the entire spacer thing then just the washers. Better to have a larger surface area to distribute the pressure out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Solscud007 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

hmm I dont know if 2mm is correct. the washers were 5mm and placed the rotor perfectly in the center of the caliper bracket. my friend said that it should have be 3mm of spacing. but 5 seems to work perfectly.</TD></TR></TABLE>

2mm is correct because the normal Integra rotor is 45mm tall. The ITR or Prelude rotors are 47mm tall. My calipers clear just fine. You also want to remove the minimal amount of material.