I say successfully as I am currently running AC but not so successfully.

I built my set up with AC in mind.
'95 LS
BLOX mani
38mm TiAL
Precision SC34
2.5" DP flares to 3" right after AC compressor
Big K&N directly on turbo
full size radiator (AC fan on and working but no passenger side fan as the K&N is in the way)
other ish

So I just got everything going good enough to justify charging the AC system back up. Works pretty good on the HWY but found out today that in traffic it makes my car start to over heat

Wanting to get right on fixing that. Thinking about:

Fabing an intake tube to move the filter over and hopefully make enough room to squeeze another fan in there.

Heat wrapping the DP

Maybe one of those heat shield turbo cover things.... anybody running one of those?

Interested to know who else encountered overheating problems with their AC and what modifications solved this problem.

 

In stop and go traffic with AC on my car feels so damn weak in the low end. It idles very low and when shifting, the rpms drop very quickly making it hard to drive the thing. It actually even stalled out the car once because the rpm dropped so low. While cruising on the highway it works pretty well, but on the regular streets it just doesn't blow cold enough for me to turn it on. Mine doesn't overheat or anything though.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EK k kay &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">In stop and go traffic with AC on my car feels so damn weak in the low end. It idles very low and when shifting, the rpms drop very quickly making it hard to drive the thing. It actually even stalled out the car once because the rpm dropped so low. While cruising on the highway it works pretty well, but on the regular streets it just doesn't blow cold enough for me to turn it on. Mine doesn't overheat or anything though.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah mine make my car idle shitty and want to die also ... but laptop arriving this week so I am hoping I can fix that with some tunning time ...

But I gotta get this ish to work cause I switched it off when I noticed the temp guage rising and by the time I got to school I was wearing a wet T shirt

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1708787

I'm running ac as well, we discussed it here a couple of weeks ago.

 

did Muckman ever make ek ac lines?


also i'm running ac and it does eventually overheat..
i think its the constant load on the motor at idle when no air is passing through the grille/bumper.

i also wrapped my lines with reflective tape and they don't melt anymore

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jfoster &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
full size radiator (AC fan on and working but no passenger side fan as the K&N is in the way)
</TD></TR></TABLE>

That is your problem right there.

You MUST have a fan on the passanger side as this is where the fluid flows in and out on a full size radiator; this is the primary cooling zone on one.

If you can't fit the fan pulling, can you fit one pushing? See if you can get a 10" puller on there, if not then a 10" pusher? Those slim lines fit in the greatest places.

You have to get another fan. Also, no, the a/c fan is NOT enough to cool a fullsize radiator. I have two slim line fans pulling full time on my car - I never had overheating issues from fan related problems, but I decided not to even bother finding out if I would.

Also, consider getting a couple Ebay or fleamarket intakes, hell, even dryer hose at Ho Depot, and moving the filter up and to the passanger side some to make room. You need another fan in there.

As to the idle issues, that is all in the tuning. Take it around the block a few times, NOT BOOSTING, no need to, then sit and idle in a parkinglot and tune your first couple of columns.

Good luck

 

This guys right. Turning on your AC generates alot more heat and may overwhelm your inadequate cooling system. Get some good pusher fans and put them on the front.

 

fans ftw

 

I had to run 3 12 inch fans on my dc2

 

Aftermarket aluminum radiator does wonders too.

 

1 12 pass side tight aganst the turbo filter but it works
(use kn round filter)

1 10 driver side pushing

im using a ugr manfiold with is same postiion as blox

workd on my DA full rad

 

Check out the angled filter I had to buy from K&N so that it would not hit my fluidyne radiator. (I know fluidyne is not there in pic, but its there now)

It angles 20 degrees, K&N website has all dimensions, I drew a few on pieces of cardboard and found which one fit best.




Modified by mike1114 at 7:55 PM 8/22/2006

 

Yeah I knew the missing fan was the main reason. I ordered 1 of the 12" fans like Muckman posted last night ... we'll see if that does the trick

Laptop came today

Now I need an ostrich

 

are these 2 14"'s?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Muckman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Best way is to weld a shroud on the condensor. When u do a pusher fan there not as effective as pullers. the air hits the fins then gets pushed back

 

Anybody know the CFM on the 2 stock integra fans?

 

Two 12" fans from B18bturbo. Cut the plastic shrouds around the sides until it fits.

 

my fans were setup like MUCKMAN thats an sc6176s sitting down there with 3" downpipe AC/PS and i added a 3rd fan later as a puller next to the filter...

 

Got my fan in today. Let it idle for quite awhile as I tuned my idle and no problems. Will test it out in some traffic sometime this week, maybe get some pics if there's interest in compiling AC/Turbo set up pics here.