broken_honda

Hey guys.

I hope I can get some leads to diagnose this problem. It is very hot down here and I'm sweating bad in the car.

This is what's going on. Car ac power level only works on 2 and 4, not 1 or 2. Compressor is not engaging, neither is ac fan.

I jumped the AC compressor and the compressor engages. I put in freeon in and get it to spec. AC is cold again. After a few days its squealing hard so I unjump it. AC fan is no longer working and ac is no longer cold. I drained the ac and redid the same method. The ac and fan will not work together unless I jump the relay. And it causes my car to drag *** when I accelerate. It also idles around 6-700 when I do this vs the regular 1k.

I'm willing to invest time into it and get the tools I need to address this problem, but I could use some guidance. Thanks y'all.

Megalodong

On 5th gens the issues you're describing would usually be related to the interior's climate control. Involves resoldering joints on the controller board. However, I don't think it's as much of an issue with 6th gens. Maybe, the first place to start is inspecting the blower motor while removed from dash and testing/replacing the blow motor resistor.

Squealng is most likely a loose AC belt or tensioner pulley.
The freon level cannot be to high or low as it will cause issues. If you used a single gauge DIY freon cans then the spec Is most likely incorrect. Need a hi/lo HVAC gauge to read properly.

sumdewd

Yeah x2 on the blower resistor. These almost always kill off a few random blower settings. You can easily replace this by removing the glovebox. You're gonna want to check the connectors for burned plugs while you're down there.

Are you properly drawing a vacuum on the system with a pump? Jumping the compressor and adding random amounts of refrigerant with no vacuum is begging to blow the high pressure relief valve or turn the system into a grenade. The squealing and low idle MAY be signs of this, or you might just need a new belt and adjust the tension as Megalodong said. It's tough to say without a proper vacuum and charge.

And by A/C fan, do you mean the blower unit inside the dash, or the one in the engine bay? If it's the one in the engine bay DO NOT jump your compressor on. It almost sounds like you may have an issue with the signal getting to the relay, which may be the dual pressure switch, ECU, the A/C button, or the blower resistor itself not giving the right signal (or ground, pending the model) to command the compressor on.

At a MINIMUM you need an electric vacuum pump, a manifold set like Megalodong said, and a can tap. Possibly a multimeter too. You can kind of skate by with those little Walmart cans but the best method is to obtain a refrigerant cylinder and a digital refrigerant scale (expensive), or take it to an A/C shop.

HF Manifold
HF Vacuum Pump

mk378

Does the light in the A/C button come on when you turn the fan on and press the button? If the light only comes on in setting 1, it is the circuit that depends on the resistor being OK, and you will need to replace the resistor. If it comes on at all settings, you should be able to use the system on 3 or 4.

Before replacing the resistor, drop the blower motor and take the mouse nest out of the ductwork. Actually that would be a good idea even if you're not going to replace the resistor. Resistors burn out because they don't get air flow from the fan like they are designed to.

The 96 and 97 have a very similar control scheme to the 92-25. The circuit board related to the A/C button can have bad connections.

As others noted, it is essential that the condenser fan run all the time the compressor is supposed to be running, or you're going to have a Very Bad Time. Do not jump stuff, fix it properly.