hondapwred95

this is my first time replacing my brake pads and rotors, wanted to know if anyone had a diy on replacing these and also had pictures, dont want to mess up its my daily driver and good brakes are a must can anyone help me try to search no pics found

Kyles ej1

there are some but the pics arent working cuz theyre old. i just changed mine a couple days ago and it was my 1st time too. ill try and do my best

jack up car

take off wheel.

2 12mm bolts to take off the caliper- 1 on top one on bottom

2 17mm bolts to take off the other thing that hold in the pads.-1 on top one on bottom

-dont let the caliper hang by the hose, tie it up to something.

undo screws in rotor and it will come right off. these were a bitch to get off and i didnt have an impact driver so heres what i did. make sure u have the right size..its a #3....put vice grips on the handle, hit the end with a hammer so it will bite into the screw and turn.

clean new rotor and put it on, put screws in...its not needed but i would do it incase u get in an accident or something.

clip new pads back in and slide over the rotor

redo the 2 17 mm bolts.

get a c clamp and push the piston back...make sure the brake fluid cap is off so u can see it its gonna spill. fluid rises when u push it back.

put caliper back on and redo the 2 12mm bolts.

put wheel back on and your done.

make sure u tighten the lug nuts, i forgot the driver side and yea it was scary


its very easy, just ask if u need help

hondapwred95

can you go into more detail about clamping the piston dont understand that to well thanks

Kyles ej1

not from a honda but its the same thing. this a caliper and the circle thing is the piston

this is a c clamp
put the c clamp over the piston so the part that twists with the little circle is in the pistona and turn the c clamp till the piston is in all the way

Kyles ej1

once u have it off and see what im talking about youll get it, just make sure u get a c clamp

hondapwred95

thanks alot that gave me a good visual so i just have to make sure thats flush with the rest of the caliper?

hondapwred95

so i dont need to put all the screws back in for the rotors there just there or what? also have you ever redone drums i have drums in the rear i dont think they need redonew right away but soon would be good since im doing the fronts. Lastly is it a good idea to change your brake fluid when you change pads, if so how and what kind of brake fluid works best. Sry im brand new to brakes as i said before. thanks alot

Kyles ej1

yup

1st side took me a few hrs cuz i didnt have the clamp so i had to go to stores and look for one and everything but the 2nd side only took me 20 mins like it should. if u have a breaker bar it will definately come in handy but its not needed, i just used the wrench on the rachet trick and some muscle and also a tourque wrench

hondapwred95

what about rear drums and the changing of fluid?

Kyles ej1

drums will last just as long as the car, so u dont need to change them but bleeding the brakes is easy too but you will need another person

alotawatts

The drums will last ....as long as the shoes are'nt worn to the nubs !
Rear shoes and all of the associated springs etc are harder to do correctly then front disk brakes.
If you have never done them get some on-site help for the rears...and fronts

six_speed

~just unbolt 1(12mm) on the bottom ( / ) and pull on the caliper to swing it up ( \ )

~as for pushing the piston back, take one of the old break pads and put it in between the piston(hollow metal ring) and the c-clamp(a short cut so the c-clamp does not have to go all the way inside of the piston.)

built562

i think you guys forgot to tell him to remove the cap on the master cylinder. because if you push the piston back in with the cap on bad things can happen

DevLishPlaya

here you go brotha

not from a spivic but from a prelude but its pretty much the same

complete step by step with pics

http://www.ntpog.org/mods/four...shtml

Kyles ej1

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by built562 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i think you guys forgot to tell him to remove the cap on the master cylinder. because if you push the piston back in with the cap on bad things can happen</TD></TR></TABLE>
nope i did in the 1st post but not in those words, but so he could understand it <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93ejay1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

get a c clamp and push the piston back...make sure the brake fluid cap is off so u can see it its gonna spill. fluid rises when u push it back.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

built562

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93ejay1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
nope i did in the 1st post but not in those words, but so he could understand it </TD></TR></TABLE>

oh crap. i didnt see that, sorry about that

Morning Call

go to your local auto part store.. u should be able to buy calipre compressors for like $3.. its works great and is alot easier to work with then a c clamp
a must if u plan in doing brakes more then once in ur life

and it isnt necessary to take the cap off the brake fluid resivoir..

Jimmy

iTrader: (5)

Buy the haynes manual

hondapwred95

has anyone ever heard of vgx metallic pads sell them at summit and i live 10 minutes away form there was thinking about just getting those

Kista20

I just did the same thing yesterday on my hx, I put new pads and rotors on. It took me just over 2 hrs total and I did take my time. The brakes was a lot easier once I got into everything. I used the haynes book and did the 1st side then I just went and did the 2nd. Some things I wanted to note is soak everything with brake cleaner before you start, that brake dust can be very nasty. Then there are 2 phillips screws that actually hold the rotor onto the hub are very tight which I knew this before I started so I went to advance and bought an impact driver kit (the kind where you smack it with a hammer). I smacked on them and they would not budge so I got out the heat and heated them and they came right out. Then I sprayed the new rotors with brake cleaner before I installed them. The driver I got can be switched in reverse so I used that to pound the screws back in tight. Also when your putting everything back together make sure you use hi temp grease on the bolts, if you don't all I can say is good luck getting them back out. Any questions please ask.