It's too bad those profiting off of content provided to their site for free don't appreciate the service.

 

Very good write-up Pirate... can't wait to see those dyno #'s. Too bad you aren't here in SoCal cuz then I could donate some dyno time. Cheers

 

nice write up!

 

damn that is one hell of a write up. what numbers do you expect to see?

 

Great write-up.

 

would h23 pistons be able to be used? what compression would that put everything at?

 

nice work pirate

now let me see some dyno's

 

Very nice work man, very nice.

Cant wait to see a dyno plot.

 

Damn, nice writeup!

Now I wanna see that beast w/ a VTEC head or some bigass cams and some headwork.

 

wow...as an ex-96 accord owner, this has got to be one of the most intresting threads i've read in honda-tech in a long time.

 

very cool write-up can't wait to see some dyno numbers on the g23

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LudeyKrus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Damn, nice writeup!

Now I wanna see that beast w/ a VTEC head or some bigass cams and some headwork.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, me too. However, I think the revs will be limited as it is with the H23VTEC hybrid (I am coming from a reliabilty side. I am not a risk taker to see if I can rev something until it breaks.)

Pirate, I have a question. Please excuse this if it sounds completely dumb. After reading your post, it seems to me that you basically turned your F23 block into an H22/H23 block (same piston wall bore), correct?? Ok, with that said, I had an idea for H23 blocks that have spun bearing. I have one. I was about to throw it away but then I thought about installing an F23 crank in the H23 block.

The reason I thought about this is because spun bearings cut out some of the metal in the main journal, correct?? It this is true (assuming that the spun bearing didn't dig out too much metal from the main journal), can't the H23 block be line-bored from 50mm to 55mm to accomodate the F23 crank??

If this can be done, that would mean that no additional work is needed, correct??

How much the the block boring cost??

One last question. What's the redline for an F23??

Good work!! I am VERY impressed.

 

Nice write! Very Creative, want to see what it puts down especially w/ some Crower cams in it!

 

Damn, good stuff!!! Seems like you learned a lot. That's what it's all about.

I would try something like this but I think I am done with Hondas. I have a new project car that I am working on.

I guess my H23 block with the spun bearing is toast. I'll just throw it away then.

Thanks for the info.

Can you post your PayPal address?? Let's get some people to donate some money so you can dyno this motor. I am dying to see a Honda motor make some torque. Come on people, we can each donate $5 to see the results. Hell, Pirate did all the leg work.....what's $5. The $5 will go a long way.

 

i know im not around much anymore which sucks alot, but i do check in e every now and then, im very glad you got the engine in and working, but am very saddened i was unablke to help you along the way. my car is almost done, i hope to tune it before the snow flys..

on my spare time i have been looking into boring the h series mains out to 55, but like you said pirate it would be difficult but im sure it could be done.

i knew your setup would come together.. and i would not worry about where you keep your revs too much.. all i really have to say is look at the k24/k20 hybrids, it has a 99mm stroke and 55mm mains, and they rev the **** out of those.. the 55mm mains is your security, the only concern i would have would be rod streching at higher rpm because the f23 look lanky

agian supurb job, can't wat to get some time slips and dyno numbers, i hope to be around more in the future, i miss the board, and especiually you guys in thge prelude forum, glad to see you followed thru with your project, remeber from now on the life of your engine is all in the tuning,,,, sped alot of time with that, and your numbers will be good,

i think with the 12:1 and the bore and stroke you should be making a bit more than 170.. but we will see,

one last thing, did you do a compression check , and if so what were the numbers?.. good work pirate, its my turn to congradulate you on being a first now

 

Excelent write up...

100% Rick Solis Approved

What was the final piston to valve clearance???

How much iron was left after boring to 87mm?


Modified by RS2 at 9:54 PM 11/5/2004

 

PayPal sent.

 

Good reading. Thank you very much. What crank pulley did you use?

 

i missed it did you post the track times

 

Can't wait for the dyno #'s

 

PirateMcFred

I want to speak to you about a plate and shaft for an SH. Please email me.

Thanks

 

Holy **** ladies and gentlemen, AndyD is the coolest guy on this board! This guy must really want to see some dyno numbers. He actually Paypaled me $5! Now I just need $25 to get this thing dynoed. I really cannot believe that he did that. **** man give me an address to ship you a !

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by prelittlelude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you do a compression check , and if so what were the numbers?.. good work pirate, its my turn to congradulate you on being a first now </TD></TR></TABLE>

No I have not but it would be pretty disappointing anyway due to the altitude of my location. My old H22 got 172 across the board at 11.3:1 compression for example.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RS2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What was the final piston to valve clearance???
How much iron was left after boring to 87mm?</TD></TR></TABLE>

The piston to valve clearance was enough that I could advance and retard the timing belt a tooth so that is over 20 degrees of adjustability without any contact.

The iron was .060" thick after I bored it out. Which Is good enough to run NA, but I would advise against it for boost.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by five-0 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Good reading. Thank you very much. What crank pulley did you use? </TD></TR></TABLE>

I used an H22 crank pulley and the h22 alternator.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 96tegls &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i missed it did you post the track times</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well by track I hope you mean roadcourse because the picture I posted:



Is a little crooked to be going for a quarter mile time. But the best time I got was 1:42.38 and the track was cold. For comparison the track is 1.65miles and Z06's go about 1:38ish. I do not go to the strip with a PRELUDE, becasue it is really hard on transmissions/clutches and the Lude is a FWD pig.

Pirate

 

i can do a money order if you want...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PirateMcFred &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Holy **** ladies and gentlemen, AndyD is the coolest guy on this board! This guy must really want to see some dyno numbers. He actually Paypaled me $5! Now I just need $25 to get this thing dynoed. I really cannot believe that he did that. **** man give me an address to ship you a !
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Dude, that is a drop in the bucket. You freakin built a hybrid that NO ONE has done before. YOU are the one who deserves a beer....and then some.

Come on guys, I think sending Pirate $5 is not asking much. Hell, the info he posted is worth MUCH MUCH MUCH MORE than that. Pirate was gracious enough to post a thread describing the WHOLE process too. The sooner we get the money together, the faster we will see the dyno results.

 

WOW I just saw this post and am SOOO impressed. I sent you 10 bucks on paypal man.

Now you only need 15 bucks dude. Come on people 5 dollars isnt ****. Its for a good cause.

Good luck man!!!