quick question. broken stud
i know that this might be the wrong forum but i figured that you guys would know the best approach to this problem...
ok so first off i didn't break it. the turbo was given to me like this.




i have tried drilling it out and using a easy-out but the easy-out broke and now that is stuck in there as well.
tried to drill the easy-out out but it won't move
any help is greatly appreciated
ok so first off i didn't break it. the turbo was given to me like this.




i have tried drilling it out and using a easy-out but the easy-out broke and now that is stuck in there as well.
tried to drill the easy-out out but it won't move
any help is greatly appreciated
he means weld another smaller bolt to it so you can screw that one out unless its completely locked up which ive had happen before and we had to drill and helicoil it which any good machine shop can do it if you cant
cast steel plus lots of heat like that tends to gaul badly. This is probably why it broke in the first place. I would be surprised if you could weld a bolt/washer/nut to the broken off easyout and sucesfully uncrew that.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bailhatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">cast steel plus lots of heat like that tends to gaul badly. This is probably why it broke in the first place. I would be surprised if you could weld a bolt/washer/nut to the broken off easyout and sucesfully uncrew that. </TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah. welding a smaller bolt wont work it.. itll just snap that off like cheese.
get out the drill press and drill and retap it..
yeah. welding a smaller bolt wont work it.. itll just snap that off like cheese.
get out the drill press and drill and retap it..
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if you are having trouble drilling it, use a mill bit that is smaller than the bolt to get started and centered.
when something is broke and it is uneven, it is very hard to keep a drill from "walking"
if you use a mill bit to get started, you can get something that you can then drill into.
when something is broke and it is uneven, it is very hard to keep a drill from "walking"
if you use a mill bit to get started, you can get something that you can then drill into.
Thats the thing why I dont use easyouts, when they snap (and they do so quite often) they're really a bitch to get out. I just drill the bolt and clean the threads with a tap when I run into problems of bolts snapping. (had that happen on the turbine side scroll).
I tlooks like you used a TINY easy out. I would drill it again with a bit just a little smaller than the bolt, so you can get the biggest possible easy out in there while still having some meat there to grab onto with it.
Also, right before hitting it with the bigger easy out, torch the ever livin **** out of it with a propane or map gas torch. They're like $35 at home depot. After about a minute of torching, hit it with the easy out and see where you get with it. Might come out fine. If not, drill and tap it like others are saying.
Also, right before hitting it with the bigger easy out, torch the ever livin **** out of it with a propane or map gas torch. They're like $35 at home depot. After about a minute of torching, hit it with the easy out and see where you get with it. Might come out fine. If not, drill and tap it like others are saying.
if your gonna use an easy out again heat it up with a torch and take a candle stick and melt some wax on it..it will come right out. I just hope that easy out is a cheap one...I use carbide easy outs so you cant drill them out
Easy-outs suck. They are hardened but are also incredibly fragile. I have them work like maybe 1 out of 5 times that I have ever had to resort to them.
Other brands of screw extractors, that are not nitrided like easy-outs are, seem to work a lot better. At least they twist a bit before they snap.
Other brands of screw extractors, that are not nitrided like easy-outs are, seem to work a lot better. At least they twist a bit before they snap.
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